The Ford Barn

russcc · 03-12-2019, 06:29 PM

Ready to install the adjustable lifters & valve assemblies in the 59L block. The cam with the aluminum timing gear is the block, but I left the crank out for the time being, and was wondering if someone good a good way of turning the cam over for adjusting the valves ? Thank you fordbarners.

34PKUP · 03-12-2019, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by russcc

Ready to install the adjustable lifters & valve assemblies in the 59L block. The cam with the aluminum timing gear is the block, but I left the crank out for the time being, and was wondering if someone good a good way of turning the cam over for adjusting the valves ? Thank you fordbarners.

Yes, put the crank in.

flatjack9 · 03-12-2019, 09:47 PM

Why would you leave the crank out? I always install the crank, but don't install the pistons until after the valves are set.

big job · 03-13-2019, 02:00 AM

Yes I posted this a while back last summer. Our rebuilds the first thing we do the valves
with nothing in the block. Simply cut about a 2 foot diameter wheel out of plywood and
just bolt on the cam. With no crank you can see the cam on its heal, one hand on the
plywood wheel the other hand with the feeler gauge. You can rock the wheel you can
turn it 360 degrees double check the lash, so easy. And with adjustable lifters and you
didn't drill the lifter bores, so simple turn the wheel adjust lash turn wheel back. After
all said and done & engine all back together still has no cam gear cause we have an
adapter to spin cam with a drill to get up oil pressure then install cam gear and button
her up. To each his own but this is positive without all that math.

supereal · 03-13-2019, 03:42 PM

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Depending upon the kind of adjustable lifters you have, most require drilling a hole into lifter socket so the body of the lifter can be held in place during adjustment. This should be done before reassembling the engine to prevent drill shavings from getting into the valve chamber. We use a 1/8" drill bit to make the hole and to hold the lifter as the adjuster is turned. Otherwise precise adjustment is difficult to achieve.

03-12-2019, 06:29 PM	#1
russcc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,871	Installing & adjusting valves Ready to install the adjustable lifters & valve assemblies in the 59L block. The cam with the aluminum timing gear is the block, but I left the crank out for the time being, and was wondering if someone good a good way of turning the cam over for adjusting the valves ? Thank you fordbarners.

03-12-2019, 09:47 PM	#3
flatjack9 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oshkosh, Wi Posts: 4,527	Re: Installing & adjusting valves Why would you leave the crank out? I always install the crank, but don't install the pistons until after the valves are set.

03-13-2019, 02:00 AM	#4
big job Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Dighton, Mass Posts: 1,230	Re: Installing & adjusting valves Yes I posted this a while back last summer. Our rebuilds the first thing we do the valves with nothing in the block. Simply cut about a 2 foot diameter wheel out of plywood and just bolt on the cam. With no crank you can see the cam on its heal, one hand on the plywood wheel the other hand with the feeler gauge. You can rock the wheel you can turn it 360 degrees double check the lash, so easy. And with adjustable lifters and you didn't drill the lifter bores, so simple turn the wheel adjust lash turn wheel back. After all said and done & engine all back together still has no cam gear cause we have an adapter to spin cam with a drill to get up oil pressure then install cam gear and button her up. To each his own but this is positive without all that math.

03-13-2019, 03:42 PM	#5
supereal Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,634	Re: Installing & adjusting valves Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Depending upon the kind of adjustable lifters you have, most require drilling a hole into lifter socket so the body of the lifter can be held in place during adjustment. This should be done before reassembling the engine to prevent drill shavings from getting into the valve chamber. We use a 1/8" drill bit to make the hole and to hold the lifter as the adjuster is turned. Otherwise precise adjustment is difficult to achieve.