long time model A owners Oil choice

[FrankWest]

I got into a big kabash on the early v8 ford board when asking about where to purchase sae 40 non-detergent motor oil for my 1933 original engine model B 4 banger. So I thought I would ask a question to you guys that have had a model A for 10 years or more. Preferably non-rebuilt engine.

Most people on the other board thought mI was insane to even consider using non-detergent motor oil.

Do all you guys use regular detergent motor oil on your long term Model A's.... And experience no real problems????

[steve s]

yes.

[Larry Jenkins]

This subject is older than I am. My take.

If you have a reasonably new, clean Model A engine, by all means use detergent oil.

Old, gunked up, loose, burns oil, 40 weight straight oil..

SHOOT!

Larry Jenkins

[redmodelt]

Simple drop and clean the pan then run 10/30 or 10/40 detergent oil and change often. Oil is cheep.
Oh wait, I drive a Model T with over haled engine.
But still any engine that has not had the pan cleaned out and has been running that long with non-detergent could benefit, also cleaning of the valve chamber. Re cleaning valve chamber, plug the lines to the mains before cleaning and remember to unplug before use.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Would you eat your MASHED POTATOES, without salt, pepper, butter, bacon bits and/or GRAVY?
Bill W.

[SeaSlugs]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by redmodelt

Simple drop and clean the pan then run 10/30 or 10/40 detergent oil and change often. Oil is cheep.
Oh wait, I drive a Model T with over haled engine.
But still any engine that has not had the pan cleaned out and has been running that long with non-detergent could benefit, also cleaning of the valve chamber. Re cleaning valve chamber, plug the lines to the mains before cleaning and remember to unplug before use.

agreed - ANY detergent oil nowadays is way better than anything they had 80 years ago...

[Pete]

I want the latest modern technology oil in my cars.
I use Valvoline part# 855.

[ModelAMike1930]

Definately use detergent oil .

[Tom Wesenberg]

Even if I didn't clean out the oil pan (I would clean it of course) I would still only use a good detergent oil. My 1952 Studebaker Land Cruiser had so much sludge you could barely make out the rocker arms when I bought it in 1969. I used a popsickle stick to clean out what I could, then started using a good detergent oil. This good oil slowly cleaned the old sludge away, and I never had a problem. The Stude V8 only had a partial flow oil filter, so the filter really didn't come into play.

[glenn in camino]

I've been running 20-50 synthetic for a long time.

[Aerocraft]

Castrol 20W50 for a very long time in my three A's.

Gar Williams

[Kevin in NJ]

Science says detergent and additives are necessary.

I have read several articles by oil engineers and they were very very clear.

You need additives in your oil to protect against harsh by products such as sulfuric acid.

You need detergents to keep the small dirt particles in suspension so they drain out when you change the oil. Detergents do NOT cause dirt to break loose. If you put good clean oil in a worn engine you are likely to find out how worn the engine really is, but that was not the detergents fault.

You also can keep the oil in for longer then you think. Oil does today does not loose its ability to lubicate (unless it gets too hot), but over time and depending on conditions you use up the additives.

You can look up all this stuff on the web. The couple of links I had have been disconnected and I know there are other places on the web. So, Please do not believe what I say and go look it up for youself.

[Mike V. Florida]

Over the years I have used both detergent and non detergent in my engine. I usually buy the cheapest oil that is vehicle rated. I change the oil every 1000 miles.

As you have read here there are various theory's;
Detergent oils will keep particles in suspension, here is where the road splits, without the filter to filter these particles out of the oil they will circulate around the engine and into the babbit causing excessive wear. The other fork in the road states, with the particles in suspension the will drain better at the oil change.

Non Detergent oils The particles in the oil will settle to the bottom of the engine. The valve galley oil gets flushed over the timing gear and settles in the pan. Since the particles are in the pan and we change the oil often, they will drain out at oil change and not circulate throughout the engine.

I only present them. Now, if you want to discuss what is truth and what is fiction you will have to do it without me.

[Kevin in NJ]

The most wear is caused by particles that you are unlikely to filter out in the Model A oil system.

Filter Particle wear Article

Granted the article is from Amsoil, it is based on a SAE study.

Most of the arguments are moot as your A is not really driven much. Few are likely to wear out an engine from the floating particles. Which brings me to the most important aspect of oil with respect to our cars. Preventing the build up of bad chemicals. I have seen many oil pans with really cool acid etching and holes. Your engine gets condesate just sitting in the garage. The daily temp variation causes the moisture to condense on the inside of all the metal housings on your car. This give the combustion by-products the water needed to change into bad chemcals such as sulfuric acid.

So the most important thing you can do for your car is have a good level of additives to prevent the formation of things that will eat the engine. Keep in mind the compression ignition rated oils have higher levels of these additives and are formulated for thicker babbitt bearings. I would think you can be better for the environment by going much longer between changes if you are driving down all paved roads for longer distances.

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

I got into a big kabash on the early v8 ford board when asking about where to purchase sae 40 non-detergent motor oil for my 1933 original engine model B 4 banger. So I thought I would ask a question to you guys that have had a model A for 10 years or more. Preferably non-rebuilt engine.

Most people on the other board thought mI was insane to even consider using non-detergent motor oil.

Do all you guys use regular detergent motor oil on your long term Model A's.... And experience no real problems????

On matters of oil and old Fords .......................... everyone is "correct".

Good luck and enjoy the drive - Dad said, "just remember to check the oil"!

Be well -

SHEC

[FrankWest]

I imagine these engines are built to withstand almost anything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGMiRAEVHF0

[Terry, NJ]

A couple of years ago, I bought a "Used" model A engine for $75 with no guarantees. I stripped it down and discovered two things, One, the center main was bad. Two, the oil screen was about 75% blocked with sludge! Now we're both intelligent people, what do you suppose one had to do with the other and what kind of oil was the last owner using? I use 15/40 Rotella from TSC. It's multi Grade and it's detergent. It works fine for me! You're not insane! Just misinformed. It's hard to believe those old anti detergent oil arguments are still floating around in the face of so much contradictory evidence! (Today's engines and oil, last longer!)
Terry

Originally Posted by FrankWest

I got into a big kabash on the early v8 ford board when asking about where to purchase sae 40 non-detergent motor oil for my 1933 original engine model B 4 banger. So I thought I would ask a question to you guys that have had a model A for 10 years or more. Preferably non-rebuilt engine.

Most people on the other board thought mI was insane to even consider using non-detergent motor oil.

Do all you guys use regular detergent motor oil on your long term Model A's.... And experience no real problems????

[msmaron]

best i have found so far.

[2manycars]

I use 25-40 Rotella. It has the additives we need, and the price is right.

[31Tudor]

I use 15-40 Dello 400

[Ron in Quincy]

If you change to detergent I would definitely drop the oil pan, remove the drip tray, clean and flush out the sludge; then remove valve cover and flush it good, this will help to clean the passage ways to the main bearings and the rear cam bearing. Then use your air compressor to blow out the valve chamber and the passage ways in the valve chamber. Re-assemble the engine and install a full 5 quarts of detergent oil of your choice.

I personally use Caster Oil GTX 20-50 and have for over 30 years in all three of my A's.

Ron

[40 Deluxe]

What's interesting is: One urban legend says if you don't use oil with lots of zinc additive in your A, your camshaft will die a horrible death. Another urban legend says if you dare to put detergent oil in your A, the crankshaft will die a horrible death! Which one will you believe? You can't have it both ways! Actually, both are just that: legends!

[CarlG]

Soooooooo, then we need a detergent oil with lots of zinc??

And don't forget to add that little bottle of lead additive to each tank of gas.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

As far as I'm concerned, the zinc doesn't hurt anything. After 27,000 fairly hard miles(no overdrive) the engine is clean, like new, and no viable wear.
I look at it as just extra protection to help the engine last longer.

[SeaSlugs]

the zinc thing does hold true about wearing out the camshaft - to a point:

The model A springs dont have enough force unlike more modern cars that have higher compression to wear out the cam. While it certiantly wont hurt anything by using the bottle of STP i dont beleive its going to blow up your engine if you dont use it.

[dlfrisch]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

As - Terry,NJ # 17 and 2manycars # 19 - state: I too use the Rotella T 15- 40. Has the right additives and from what I understand - a lot of on the road diesel haulers use it and they seem to have real good luck with engine time.