Modern Bendix drive -- or not?

[Nlbloch]

Spring busted on Bendix starter. This is not the first time, perhaps last was 6 years ago. I try to be careful to start car with advance fully retarded.

Question: I see that Brattons sells a "modern Bendix drive" which eliminates the spring. Have others had good results from this alternative?

I am trying to keep my car as original as possible, but this broken spring has me frustrated.

[Jwilli]

I have a modern bendix on one of my cars (12 volt system) works great. Looking at the starter there is no indication that it has a modern bendix.

[MikeK]

I have had two 'modern' barrel drives fail. The extremely small and overly brittle internal helix shatters and jams in the extended position. Good luck getting it disengaged, out and off the shaft.

[glenn in camino]

I have 3. So far, so good.

[Y-Blockhead]

Hmmm, My Town Sedan came with one installed. Never had a problem with it and either had the previous custodian...

[CWPASADENA]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by MikeK

I have had two 'modern' barrel drives fail. The extremely small and overly brittle internal helix shatters and jams in the extended position. Good luck getting it disengaged, out and off the shaft.

I heard that there were some that were made in China that were not good quality and would fail. Something inside of them would break and they would jam.

I have one in my Tudor that I purchased about ten years ago and it works just fine. I think this was before the Chinese ones came on the market.

My experience,

Chris W.

[SAJ]

Like MikeK I had 2 break and jam up. Both were branded "made in India". One came from Snyders and the other (same brand) from a local supplier. I have since fitted two made in USA Weldon brand units, both from Snyders and neither has broken. My 6volt starter in my roadster hits pretty hard (not sure why) whilst my tudor engages more softly. The roadster has 100 psi compressions while the tudor reads 85 psi. Spark is 5 deg more retarded on the roadster than on the tudor at full retard for less "clang" when the barrel drive engages, and both run about 30 deg BTDC at motorway speeds.
Why the roadster is so much harder engaging I am not sure, but I have the motor out and the ring gear is pretty graunched where it engages. I will replace it this week. It was new 20000 miles ago (touring engine from Shwalms via Snyders).
The tudor engine I assembled myself.
I know of another barrel drive that broke before leaving the mechanics driveway after it was fitted. Brand unknown but some years ago.
I will only fit the Weldon USA unit after my experiences
SAJ in NZ

[Kurt in NJ]

I have been using the stock drive, havn't looked at it for over 25 years, when I was rebuilding starters I got to look at many, most had reused locks, worn loose fitting bolts,--so I picked a used drive that new bolts fit the threads properly, used a NOS spring with new bolts and locks, and a new ring gear, never any problems since, before it would jam sometimes because of worn ring gear teeth ----in my opinion and experience there is no need for modification with proper restoration

[Tom Wesenberg]

X2 what Kurt said.

[Mitch//pa]

X3 what Kurt and Tom says

[JD 1931]

Stay with the original type, replaced a worn one that was jerry rigged with a new original type about 12 yrs ago...

[jack99]

I installed a modern unit. Within 3 months it are my ring gear up.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

What I see is the screw that can't fall out, can still become loose and break.you just don't have to retrieve it. So I decided the starter is a every couple years maintenance item. Pull it out and repair/replace the bolts ect.

[Jacksonlll]

Stay away from that new drive. One just broke in our club after a very short time. Nothing wrong with the original.