The Ford Barn

sconnors · 08-22-2013, 12:38 PM

I've been chasing a rattle in the Model A and have narrowed it down to the right front brake rod. The rod and the anti rattle clip were shot. So I ordered a new clip and a new rod and installed them but still have a rattle while driving. It's less than before but still there.

Any tips or tricks to get the rattle to stop?

Sparky · 08-22-2013, 01:29 PM

You could try detaching the end with the lock nut, loosen the nut and give the clevis a slight turn (a couple degrees or so), then re-lock it. This will pre-load the pins slightly may help a bit.

sconnors · 08-22-2013, 04:19 PM

I was thinking of coating the road with some teflon tap or something just to stop the rattle.

jkeesey · 08-22-2013, 04:30 PM

The problem with coating it with Teflon tape is it would tend to bind. Maybe try some very heavy grease. Not the red high temp stuff like for wheel bearings but the really thick, putty like agricultural stuff.

sconnors · 08-22-2013, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkeesey

The problem with coating it with Teflon tape is it would tend to bind. Maybe try some very heavy grease. Not the red high temp stuff like for wheel bearings but the really thick, putty like agricultural stuff.

What type of agricultural grease? I just have regular stuff but I can run to Tractor Supply!

jkeesey · 08-22-2013, 04:39 PM

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I did a search on their website and its about 2 steps above totally useless. The stuff I use for those situations is Fibre Wheel Bearing grease that is rated for automotive and agricultural use. Its also about 60 years old and from the Primrose Pet. Co. You don't have to worry about the high temp just that its very thick.

sconnors · 08-22-2013, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkeesey

I did a search on their website and its about 2 steps above totally useless. The stuff I use for those situations is Fibre Wheel Bearing grease that is rated for automotive and agricultural use. Its also about 60 years old and from the Primrose Pet. Co. You don't have to worry about the high temp just that its very thick.

I see what you mean! I'll take a ride down to the local NAPA store and grab some wheel bearing grease and try that. Thanks for the idea.

CarlG · 08-22-2013, 06:02 PM

The wheel bearing grease you get these days does not have the fibers in it like it use to have, it's not much more than chassis lube. I bought a can of "Timken" wheel bearing grease a while back and that is all it was, just a little thicker than chassis lube, no fibers.

jkeesey · 08-22-2013, 06:43 PM

That's why I said not to get regular wheel bearing grease. The standard Timken is lighter than most too. Just walk around NAPA sticking your finger in all the different greases, I'm sure they won't mind.

sconnors · 08-22-2013, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkeesey

That's why I said not to get regular wheel bearing grease. The standard Timken is lighter than most too. Just walk around NAPA sticking your finger in all the different greases, I'm sure they won't mind.

Yea they'll love me for that!! Well if you come up with any brands I should pick up let me know!!

Tom Wesenberg · 08-22-2013, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sconnors

Yea they'll love me for that!! Well if you come up with any brands I should pick up let me know!!

Go to your local railroad shop and get some grease for a steam engine. The grease used for the connecting rods and brass bushings on the steam locomotive is like road tar when it's 30* below zero.

1931 flamingo · 08-23-2013, 02:56 PM

"local railroad shop" "steam locomotive"

Love ya Tom

Paul

pat in Santa Cruz · 08-23-2013, 04:18 PM

Rainmaker Ron once suggested taking a thin piece of felt about 5-6 inches long: Fold it in half, placing the loop over the rod near the clevis pin, thread both ends under the clevis, through the yoke and back up over the top of the clevis and under the felt loop. Cut off the excess, but leave enough to be sure the knot stays. Oil it to keep the pin oiled and it stops the rattle as well. He posted a photo over on Ahooga, but its long lost unless someone here has it.

I'm curious if the grease works. Let us know.

Tom Wesenberg · 08-23-2013, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

"local railroad shop" "steam locomotive"

Love ya Tom

Paul

Yep, I was born too late!

The 261 is housed in Minneapolis and I watched the engine get greased with hoses connected to the steam pipe for pressure to the grease gun. The grease comes in sticks and there is a handful left when they change the stick, so I saved some once. I never found a use for it thought, so I threw it away.

BrianM · 08-23-2013, 09:18 PM

Are you running Houdaille shocks? I had a problem with the RF brake rod rattling against the Houdaille adjuster. If this is the case, you'll see marks in the paint where they hit.

sconnors · 08-23-2013, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianM

Are you running Houdaille shocks? I had a problem with the RF brake rod rattling against the Houdaille adjuster. If this is the case, you'll see marks in the paint where they hit.

I'm running Bill Stipe shocks, but I'll check and see if I can see if that's the problem.

1crosscut · 08-23-2013, 09:50 PM

Sort of in the same line of thought that Pat has I would take a rag and wrap it around the clevis to see if that would stop the rattle. If it does the trick then remove the rag and check to see if your pin through the clevis is worn or the holes in the clevis are worn allowing room for it to rattle. Perhaps loosening the lock nut and turning the clevis ever so slightly to put a side load on it would then take care of it. Or just replace the clevis and pin.
Dave

08-22-2013, 12:38 PM	#1
sconnors Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Stephentown Posts: 446	Brake Rod Rattle I've been chasing a rattle in the Model A and have narrowed it down to the right front brake rod. The rod and the anti rattle clip were shot. So I ordered a new clip and a new rod and installed them but still have a rattle while driving. It's less than before but still there. Any tips or tricks to get the rattle to stop?

08-22-2013, 01:29 PM	#2
Sparky Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 649	Re: Brake Rod Rattle You could try detaching the end with the lock nut, loosen the nut and give the clevis a slight turn (a couple degrees or so), then re-lock it. This will pre-load the pins slightly may help a bit.

08-22-2013, 04:19 PM	#3
sconnors Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Stephentown Posts: 446	Re: Brake Rod Rattle I was thinking of coating the road with some teflon tap or something just to stop the rattle.

08-22-2013, 04:30 PM	#4
jkeesey Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Glenmoore Pa Posts: 1,644	Re: Brake Rod Rattle The problem with coating it with Teflon tape is it would tend to bind. Maybe try some very heavy grease. Not the red high temp stuff like for wheel bearings but the really thick, putty like agricultural stuff.

08-22-2013, 04:39 PM	#6
jkeesey Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Glenmoore Pa Posts: 1,644	Re: Brake Rod Rattle Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I did a search on their website and its about 2 steps above totally useless. The stuff I use for those situations is Fibre Wheel Bearing grease that is rated for automotive and agricultural use. Its also about 60 years old and from the Primrose Pet. Co. You don't have to worry about the high temp just that its very thick.

08-22-2013, 06:02 PM	#8
CarlG Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 9,116	Re: Brake Rod Rattle The wheel bearing grease you get these days does not have the fibers in it like it use to have, it's not much more than chassis lube. I bought a can of "Timken" wheel bearing grease a while back and that is all it was, just a little thicker than chassis lube, no fibers. __________________ Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club

08-22-2013, 06:43 PM	#9
jkeesey Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Glenmoore Pa Posts: 1,644	Re: Brake Rod Rattle That's why I said not to get regular wheel bearing grease. The standard Timken is lighter than most too. Just walk around NAPA sticking your finger in all the different greases, I'm sure they won't mind.

08-23-2013, 02:56 PM	#12
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,391	Re: Brake Rod Rattle "local railroad shop" "steam locomotive" Love ya Tom Paul

08-23-2013, 04:18 PM	#13
pat in Santa Cruz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: santa cruz, calif Posts: 2,011	Re: Brake Rod Rattle Rainmaker Ron once suggested taking a thin piece of felt about 5-6 inches long: Fold it in half, placing the loop over the rod near the clevis pin, thread both ends under the clevis, through the yoke and back up over the top of the clevis and under the felt loop. Cut off the excess, but leave enough to be sure the knot stays. Oil it to keep the pin oiled and it stops the rattle as well. He posted a photo over on Ahooga, but its long lost unless someone here has it. I'm curious if the grease works. Let us know.

08-23-2013, 09:18 PM	#15
BrianM Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Gwinn, MI Posts: 46	Re: Brake Rod Rattle Are you running Houdaille shocks? I had a problem with the RF brake rod rattling against the Houdaille adjuster. If this is the case, you'll see marks in the paint where they hit.

08-23-2013, 09:50 PM	#17
1crosscut Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Lincoln, Nebraska Posts: 1,910	Re: Brake Rod Rattle Sort of in the same line of thought that Pat has I would take a rag and wrap it around the clevis to see if that would stop the rattle. If it does the trick then remove the rag and check to see if your pin through the clevis is worn or the holes in the clevis are worn allowing room for it to rattle. Perhaps loosening the lock nut and turning the clevis ever so slightly to put a side load on it would then take care of it. Or just replace the clevis and pin. Dave __________________ Dave / Lincoln Nebraska