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Old 07-19-2015, 08:57 AM   #1
BILL WILLIAMSON
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Default Secret Tips

Surely many have discovered a SECRET/EASILY DESCRIBED, TIP/FIX, for a Model A, that many have NOT heard of.
Please SHARE THEM
Bill W.
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:33 AM   #2
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Default Re: Secret Tips

Great post idea Bill! Sorry I'm too new to have anything good to share.. Maybe in 10 years God willing I will
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:23 AM   #3
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Bill Here is the best tip I can share Buy the most RUST FREE model A you can. I get tired of fixing rust. But here in Indiana most every thing is rusty. Keep those secrets coming. Don in In.
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Old 07-19-2015, 11:04 AM   #4
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can not tell. because if I did it would no longer be a secret
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Old 07-19-2015, 12:37 PM   #5
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Well, I tried, hoped I could get some INFO to SELL---HOW do I delete a THREAD?
Bill W.
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Old 07-19-2015, 12:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Well, I tried, hoped I could get some INFO to SELL---HOW do I delete a THREAD?
Bill W.
Make a political comment.
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Old 07-19-2015, 01:24 PM   #7
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You did good Bill. I was just giving you a hard time. When I think of some I will post them.
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Old 07-19-2015, 01:31 PM   #8
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Good one,700rpm
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Old 07-19-2015, 01:39 PM   #9
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Make a political comment.




That'll do it !
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Old 07-19-2015, 02:01 PM   #10
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Here's a secret tip....if you have a question just post it on the Barn....surely you will get an answer
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Old 07-19-2015, 02:03 PM   #11
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Here's one I learned from a wiseman:

"Tap, tap, tap"
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Old 07-19-2015, 02:08 PM   #12
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Bill here is a tip to be used for all cars, especially the engines, make sure you have all the bolts started in the project before you tighten any of them, if you don't when you get to the last one it wont fit, you wont be able to start it
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Old 07-19-2015, 02:13 PM   #13
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Vintage Hi-Tech Inexpensive Tap Water Engine Tip for Poor Folks:

A. Used mostly by the poorest of the poor years ago by Model A owners after buying a dilapidated Model A that had worn rings, plugs fowled with excess soot; very little engine power because valves were starving for fuel caused by the combustion chamber carbon build up around valves; and last but not least, one experienced extreme exhaust smoke while driving that could kill swarms of mosquitoes in the back forty acres clear across the one (1) mile wide Mississippi River.

B. By now, most have seen Forum photos of tops of pistons and the tops of Model A engine blocks that "shined" like "new"; and were immaculate and spotless where an adjacent segment of the head gasket was blown and this one (1) particular combustion chamber had been "steam cleaned" with the introduction of small amounts of radiator water.

C. If one is ever in a situation where a worn Model A engine idled for far too long, (like maybe in a Parade), or the former owner left his worn engine idle for too long; or a former owner drove very slowly with a worn engine for long periods of time; one can experience increased plug fowling and excessive carbon build up, and loss of engine power.

D. Get a bottle with a spray device, (similar to a "cleaned" Windex bottle), and spray a little water at a time into the intake of the carburetor while the engine is running at a fast idle to steam clean soot and carbon from all four (4) plugs and around valves in the all four (4) combustion chambers.

E. Afterwards, scientifically remove a few plugs with a delicate spark plug instrument, diagnostically look inside the combustion chamber with a hi-tech surgical flashlight to check this sanitizing endeavor -- many poor people did this because they could not afford piston rings and/or new plugs -- please don't ask me where I learned this hi-tech Secret.
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:18 PM   #14
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that's an easy way to find a leaking gasket letting water into one cyl, pull the plugs till you find one with out any carbon on it, usually it will be snow white
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:21 PM   #15
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My auto shop teacher gave us the water carbon cleaner method in class. His version was to mist at fast idle and then increase mist till it stalled and leave the engine sit overnight and start it in the morning. He warned us not to have it up to a wall or let friends stand by the tailpipe. He also said Saniflush makes a great radiator cleaner but warned if there was stopleak keeping in the water it would be gone with any other debris and rust.
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Old 07-19-2015, 05:20 PM   #16
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Bill I thought you had all the secrets:-) my secret is the Ford Barn!!
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Old 07-19-2015, 05:38 PM   #17
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My secret is to try to find out what: Bill W, Tom, Marco, Purdy and many others would do.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:11 PM   #18
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My secret is to try to find out what: Bill W, Tom, Marco, Purdy and many others would do.
A Very elite group ! Wayne
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:38 PM   #19
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Default Re: Secret Tips

Great thread, Bill. Most of what I know came from the barn anyway so it's not much of a secret.
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Old 07-19-2015, 08:09 PM   #20
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If your cluster mounted dash lite flickers at speed, just add a LITTLE dab of rosin core solder on the tip of the bulb. Seems that some bulbs are a trifle too short & it seems that you CAN'T bend the socket connector goody. A higher candle power bulb helps you find coins in the floor, BUT, it gets HOTTER, & you have to be QUICK, when turnin' OFF the light!!!!!
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:10 PM   #21
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Default Re: Secret Tips

Bill, thanks for starting a good post.
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:53 PM   #22
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I've also had to build up the bulb contacts with a drop of solder. Road salt is a killer for tail lights, especially on trailers, so I figured I'd put Vaseline in the socket to stop corrosion. It melts at the bulb temperature and made a mess, so I switched to high temp grease, and that works fine.
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:36 PM   #23
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I can't imagine the HORRORS of dealing with ROAD SALT, I've worked on a few cars from back there & it's SO SAD.
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:41 PM   #24
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I can't imagine the HORRORS of dealing with ROAD SALT, I've worked on a few cars from back there & it's SO SAD.
Bill W.
Bill not only does road salt rot the metal in the car it kills the grass and pits the driveway and sidewalk concrete. Many places gave now outlawed it and use liquid ice melter !
Wayne
P.s. Good thread Bill!
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:48 PM   #25
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Road salt has even eaten the concrete floor of my garage. It makes a real mess on windshields and blocks your vision when the roads are full of slush.
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:57 PM   #26
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You guys don't know any thing about road salt ! Try driving in winter in Salt Lake City UT and see what it does to your cars.
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Old 07-19-2015, 11:00 PM   #27
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Some places use calcium chloride with worse consequences.
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Old 07-19-2015, 11:02 PM   #28
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Anybody hear about the Vintage Rural Tip on how to stop neighborhood male dogs from hiking up their legs at Model A wheels?
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Old 07-19-2015, 11:53 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Anybody hear about the Vintage Rural Tip on how to stop neighborhood male dogs from hiking up their legs at Model A wheels?
Does it have anything to do with a Model T coil?
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Old 07-19-2015, 11:58 PM   #30
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another tip, when your finished repacking the front wheel bearings and reinstalling the cotter key, put it in the hole with the short leg facing out, then cut off the long leg up against the nut, then bend over the short leg, all the cotter key does is stop the nut from unscrewing and the key from falling out, don't need two bent legs to stop that, and its a lot easier to remove the key with only one bent cotter key leg
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Old 07-20-2015, 07:08 AM   #31
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another tip, when your finished repacking the front wheel bearings and reinstalling the cotter key, put it in the hole with the short leg facing out, then cut off the long leg up against the nut, then bend over the short leg, all the cotter key does is stop the nut from unscrewing and the key from falling out, don't need two bent legs to stop that, and its a lot easier to remove the key with only one bent cotter key leg
Chief was an ARTIST at settin' cotter keys, like what you said, & he would grasp that short end with the dikes & lever the head of the key, TIGHT, in the slot, before bending it over. His Rule was that the key should NOT even WOBBLE! On clevis pins, he'd do it in the same manner & bend it tight OVER the end of the pin & clip it SHORT & neat. That's NOT the high points way, but it's QUICK, EASY & looks NEAT Whoever did Vermin just BARELY spread the LEGS of the keys! (Pathetic!)
If I did one "sub standard", he'd make me re-do it-------
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Old 07-20-2015, 08:01 AM   #32
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Anybody hear about the Vintage Rural Tip on how to stop neighborhood male dogs from hiking up their legs at Model A wheels?
Fence charger would work also stops gasoline from siphoning gas, we found the gas cap on the ground the next day :-) !!!
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:33 AM   #33
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Here's the greatest time saving tip for collector car owners --hire a gardner!
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:06 AM   #34
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Once again! Bill, you've scored a winner with this thread! Keep em' coming! Anybody want to hear how I clean Mod A bolts with a die and keep them on Henry's size? I'll swap you for the method to bend two piece gutters and fit them together on a Town Sedan.
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:08 AM   #35
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I'm with you JWilli...I generally find that using OEM parts and taking care of the machinery is the best way to do it all...Restored my first Tudor in the 60's with JC Whitney, Warshawski and Argentine parts...redid it in the 90's with OEM and it never ran better...then did a Vicky in the 80's with all the current parts, and completely redid it with parts bought and reconditioned at swap meets...now working on a completely OEM 180A...that has taken over 15 years to get it all right and I still stop to study...
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:36 AM   #36
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For BRIGHT tail lights, on All old cars, spray the inside with APPLIANCE WHITE!
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:47 AM   #37
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Before putting fuel in tank shake off the nozzle first so nothing goes on the paint
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Old 07-20-2015, 11:56 AM   #38
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Per reply #28 & #32, a very old vintage fence shocker operated with two (2) large, (approximately 8" tall x 3" diameter) dry cell battery was used years ago.

Be extremely careful with any "homemade" type fence shockers of unknown amperage.

I knew a guy who rigged one up, turned it "ON", and found his dead mule later that afternoon with his head hanging on the electric fence wire.

Same could possibly happen to dogs, cats, and bare footed children.

I much prefer to wash my wheels and allow the dogs to enjoy life.
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Old 07-20-2015, 12:07 PM   #39
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My friend just got a pacemaker and is no longer supposed to work around welders and ignition systems.
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Old 07-20-2015, 12:58 PM   #40
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I don't have any Secret fix/tip for a Model A, if I did and I posted it, everybody would think I was bullshitting , so I'm keeping all my secret tip/fixes to myself!!!!!
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Old 07-20-2015, 01:10 PM   #41
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I don't have any Secret fix/tip for a Model A, if I did and I posted it, everybody would think I was bullshitting , so I'm keeping all my secret tip/fixes to myself!!!!!
post your easy water pump removal
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Old 07-20-2015, 01:27 PM   #42
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Many answers and they will differ!
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Old 07-20-2015, 01:56 PM   #43
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post your easy water pump removal
OH!! Ya!! forgot about that, cut off the blades to remove a four blade to get the water pump off to put a two blade back on with new water pump attached, eliminates removing radiator. Of course that was just an idea, I didn't actually do it but I was glad to see my brain was still in a creative mode....I did run it by all the experts here, Mitch, Larry, Bill, Wayne, etc and they said "Fantastic Idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 07-20-2015, 02:31 PM   #44
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OH!! Ya!! forgot about that, cut off the blades to remove a four blade to get the water pump off to put a two blade back on with new water pump attached, eliminates removing radiator. Of course that was just an idea, I didn't actually do it but I was glad to see my brain was still in a creative mode....I did run it by all the experts here, Mitch, Larry, Bill, Wayne, etc and they said "Fantastic Idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
dont forget saw zawing the pump in half
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Old 07-20-2015, 02:42 PM   #45
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dont forget saw zawing the pump in half

That's right, you have a better memory than me, just cut off the fan at the shaft!!!! and the water pump just slides out, Damn!!!! all the money I could save by just doing the repairs meself!!!! I'm a Model A genius!!!
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:43 PM   #46
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If I have a 4 blade fan on a car and it has to come off, just bend all 4 blades towards the water pump and remove it without touching the radiator.

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Old 07-20-2015, 03:47 PM   #47
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I don't have any Secret fix/tip for a Model A, if I did and I posted it, everybody would think I was bullshitting , so I'm keeping all my secret tip/fixes to myself!!!!!
So's A Model '31,
Ur you a parts HOARDER TOO? Iffin' Po' Old Bill needed sum TEETH fur his RUBBER CHICKEN, would you mail them? If so, would you cough up a scarce part & mail it to me in a COFFEE CAN? If you pack it in ground COFFEE, it won't get BROKE
Whin we "GO", we cain't take our $$$$$$$$$$$$'s with us, that also applies to our PARTS STASH! Sumbody?? sed we CAN take our CARS, if we give the BATTERY to sumbody & Drain all the LIQUIDS into an APPROVED CONTAINER & take it to PEP-BOYS & buy a green AIR FRESHENER, while you're there
Po' Ol' Bill W.
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:31 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 31 Model A View Post
OH!! Ya!! forgot about that, cut off the blades to remove a four blade to get the water pump off to put a two blade back on with new water pump attached, eliminates removing radiator. Of course that was just an idea, I didn't actually do it but I was glad to see my brain was still in a creative mode....I did run it by all the experts here, Mitch, Larry, Bill, Wayne, etc and they said "Fantastic Idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pretty ingenious, if you ask me ! Wayne
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:39 PM   #49
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There must surely be a clever way of installing a new gas-tank float via the filler cap, without having to unscrew the guage and remove the whole thing?
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Old 07-20-2015, 05:20 PM   #50
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Soak spark plugs that have stains and yellowing on the porcelain in Oxalic Acid (Wood Bleach). It will make the porcelain look like new and also take any rust off the body of the plug.
Paint the metal body of your spark plugs with Penetrol (it's clear) to protect them from rusting. Penetrol will also keep your head studs and nuts from rusting and brass parts from tarnishing.
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:06 PM   #51
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Quote:
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dont forget saw zawing the pump in half
I have seen this done by a Model A owner!!!!
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:16 PM   #52
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The book TINY TIPS for your model A. Has 250 not so secret tips. Lots of the even work.
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:31 PM   #53
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Default Re: Secret Tips

On the serious side, I did put a lot of my tips in a small book that can be previewed 100% at no cost at blurb.com. Just search "Model A Ford Tips and Hints". No need to buy it. jack
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Old 07-20-2015, 07:22 PM   #54
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If I have a 4 blade fan on a car and it has to come off, just bend all 4 blades towards the water pump and remove it without touching the radiator.

Mike
I use the heaviest socks in the drawer to cover the blades so they do no damage.
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:58 AM   #55
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JUNCTION BOX: I've run into 3 junction boxes, with poor connections, ALL the nuts were very tight & NO visible signs of CORROSION! Added 4 star washers & all was well. Junction boxes are simple, JUST a convenient junction point, between the dash & engine room wiring.
That's the best I can do, on ONLY 1 cup of COFFEE!
Bill W
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Old 07-21-2015, 02:05 PM   #56
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Default Re: Secret Tips

I had some roof nails that were loose. Then I put a small piece of blue painters tape, with a hole in it, then pulled out the loose nail. ThenI dipped a toothpick in Gorilla glue, and inserted it into the loose nail hole. Then I cut the toothpick off with dikes, and put the nail back in (it was tight now). Once the glue cured, I removed the tape, and now it is perfect.
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Old 07-21-2015, 06:06 PM   #57
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Default Re: Secret Tips

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Anybody hear about the Vintage Rural Tip on how to stop neighborhood male dogs from hiking up their legs at Model A wheels?
Yeah. Park it next to a Chev.
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:45 PM   #58
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Default Re: Secret Tips

When we were much younger, Mercury Charlie showed me that when you have a stuck nut and fearful of snapping the bolt, try to tighten it slightly just to break the tension, then loosen it.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...90-000.610159/





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Old 07-21-2015, 07:55 PM   #59
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Default Re: Secret Tips

Beside Bill's nail in the radiator this is my all time favourite. I take no credit for this tip as it belongs to A. E. Granville and was published in the June 1930 issue of Popular Mechanics.

Please don't try this on your new leakless water pumps.

Enjoy



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Old 07-21-2015, 08:31 PM   #60
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Default Re: Secret Tips

A large paper clip seems to work to unclogged my clogged grease fittings.
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Old 07-23-2015, 07:52 PM   #61
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A large paper clip seems to work to unclogged my clogged grease fittings.
But not as much fun, heh.
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:16 PM   #62
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But not as much fun, heh.
Watched an Old Western, Jimmy Stewart poked his finger in a guys' gun barrel & said, "If you shoot me, that thing will EXPLODE & blow your HAND off"!!!
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Old 07-24-2015, 04:30 AM   #63
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Default Re: Secret Tips

If it's running well leave it alone and don't screw it up by twiddling with the points or carburetor until it doesn't run at all. About the only thing I do is check the gas sediment bowl for dirt and clean it if necessary.
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:30 AM   #64
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Default Re: Secret Tips

When tightening or loosening a rear axle nut, take a 2 or 3 foot piece of flat or angle iron, drill a 1/2" hole near one end, put it on one of the wheel studs, brace it against the next one w/the other end on the ground.
I use the same practice when working on open driveshaft vehicles when R&Ring the pinion nut.
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:36 AM   #65
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Default Re: Secret Tips

Here's a pic of my "tool trolley". It's a flat wooden box about 12" x 12", I picked it up about 30 year ago, put 4 casters on it. I use it when working at floor level like on brakes or under a vehicle. Keeps all the tools and small parts corralled.
YMMV
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:44 AM   #66
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Quote:
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Here's a pic of my "tool trolley". It's a flat wooden box about 12" x 12", I picked it up about 30 year ago, put 4 casters on it. I use it when working at floor level like on brakes or under a vehicle. Keeps all the tools and small parts corralled.
YMMV
I have one similar, my only suggestion is to add a magnetic pan to hold small parts
(available @ HF free on occasion) http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-ma...der-61428.html
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Old 07-25-2015, 11:13 AM   #67
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I have one similar, my only suggestion is to add a magnetic pan to hold small parts
(available @ HF free on occasion) http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-ma...der-61428.html
A friend used an old creeper, with a back board & peg board hooks & always kept it loaded, with ANYTHING he might need under the car.
Also, IF you work over a cement pit, paint its' walls APPLIANCE WHITE & you WON'T even need a DROP LIGHT!
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Old 07-25-2015, 11:32 AM   #68
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Default Re: Secret Tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by katy View Post
Here's a pic of my "tool trolley". It's a flat wooden box about 12" x 12", I picked it up about 30 year ago, put 4 casters on it. I use it when working at floor level like on brakes or under a vehicle. Keeps all the tools and small parts corralled.
YMMV
That is great idea!
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Old 07-25-2015, 11:45 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead View Post
I have one similar, my only suggestion is to add a magnetic pan to hold small parts
(available @ HF free on occasion) http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-ma...der-61428.html
I have the same but in addition the LARGE MAGNET that came with the car... My guess of hold metal from drain towards the Zenith.


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Old 07-25-2015, 06:08 PM   #70
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Default Re: Secret Tips

trk overheating, today drained coolant,engine pans in pristine shape.lined pan with alum foil to catch in a bucket.worked great & could see particals coming out with petcock slightly open. added rad flush & will do again this week.don't think I would see particals on my black pans.vinagar next time if not satisfied. tom
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Old 07-27-2015, 08:31 PM   #71
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Default Re: Secret Tips

WARNING!!!! WARNING!!!! WARNING!!!!

Under NO circumstances should the suggestion in response #57 be attempted (using the 22-cartridges). You have absolutely no control over pressures that could develop.

I hope everyone can see the danger this could be.
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Old 07-27-2015, 09:13 PM   #72
Fred K-OR
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Default Re: Secret Tips

I have found a few tools that help me time my rig. Not being an expert in this area, I find these tools get my timing as good as I need it. They are the ratchet nut wrench: http://www.brattons.com/product.asp?...=any&PT_ID=all
the quick set point setting tool:http://www.brattons.com/product.asp?...=any&PT_ID=all
and the timing cam wrench tool:http://www.brattons.com/product.asp?...=any&PT_ID=all

I take the top off the distributor and hit the starter until the rotor is about at the #1 pin. Then I use the ratchet nut wrench to get the timing pin at exactly TDC (this wrench make it easy rather that using the crank). Then I use the timing cam wrench tool to get the cam set the way it should be at #1 pin. Then put the rotor back on to check how it lines up with #1 (the way the books say you should have it). Then I take the rotor off again and use the quick set point setting tool to set the points. I find this tool will set the points at about .22 which I like for a new set of points.

So hope this helps someone other than me. Yes it does cost a bit in tools but this is a lot better than having you A run bad because you can't get it in time.
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Old 07-28-2015, 02:30 PM   #73
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Default Re: Secret Tips

I am not trying to rain on any party.

Just trying to save a life! I have been a reloader for over 50-years, and have seen what over-pressure can do.
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