The Ford Barn

hangarb7 · 09-25-2015, 11:04 AM

I did search and I know this has been discussed here before but I can't find the old posts.

I have two lugs on one rear wheel spinning. I am guessing that I need to pop off the hub cap, reach in and pull the cotter key, unscrew the big nut and pull the drum off....

Then add a couple weld tacks to the lug? Am I missing anything?

Thanks for your help and suggestions.

JackD

Charles Coe · 09-25-2015, 11:19 AM

The lug is supposed to be swaged in the hub. They have a projection on them to keep them from turning if they are pulled tight in the hub. Some do tack weld them rather than swage but swaging is the best way to go.

Bob C · 09-25-2015, 11:31 AM

Not very likely that you will be able to get the drum off without a puller
and you need the wheel off to use a puller.

Bob

John · 09-25-2015, 11:35 AM

Be careful if you weld the stud to the hub as there is little clearance between the emergency brake apparatus and the hub. If you swage the stud to the drum, it takes a tool available from the Model A vendors and a press capable of more than 20 tons. The force needed is about 20-25 tons and a 20 ton Harbor Freight press just will not make it. See the link here below for an example of my club installing lugs with a fabricated jig for holding a home made die.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=bbWsOSU3lJ8

John

hangarb7 · 09-25-2015, 11:55 AM

wow, now I am actually worried. I am a relative newbie and just accomplished my first front brake jobs on the car.

Regarding getting the drum off, certainly someone has had this issue before. How was it done if you need a puller? I assume you need a puller because of the spline shaft...?

Thanks

Bruce_MO · 09-25-2015, 12:06 PM

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I honestly have never really had to use a puller to get a drum off. But I've had a number that were REALLY tough and I cussed a lot. Back off the adjuster as much as possible and all the other stuff (undo emerg brake rod and service brake rod), and keep your fingers crossed.

And yes, I have a drum on one A that someone tacked the studs to the hub. As John says, I had to grind them down because I had some contact. Good luck

Mel Gross · 09-25-2015, 12:07 PM

Jack;

I do a lot of swedging of brake drums / hubs and don't recommend tack welding the studs at all. I would be glad to remove the bad studs and swedge in new ones at no labor cost. You would only need to pay for the replacement studs and shipping cost both directions. But better yet, why not replace both rear drums with new cast iron ones? I have new cast iron drums and can to this for you.

If interested, then call me at 714-292-8660

Thanks

Randy Gross

Bob C · 09-25-2015, 12:11 PM

Here's a thread that may help. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...highlight=lugs

Bob

larrys40 · 09-25-2015, 12:51 PM

Jack

It's a dilemma as you indicated . I would do as you said and after pulling hubcap and cotter back off the axle nut a little (several threads) and drive the car carefully around the block and see if the hub comes loose . Hopefully it will . You may tray and see before you so that if it doesn't come loose anyway as many are not tight.
Hopefully this will work and you can remove safely. Repeat if necessary. I have had to do this several times though the years and been successful each time .
Let us know how it goes . As randy gross said it may be the best time to convert to cast iron if you wish to and his offer is certainly generous.
Larry Shepard

burner31 · 09-25-2015, 01:21 PM

A nut splitter maybe?

Tom Wesenberg · 09-25-2015, 01:29 PM

If you remove the jack, will the weight of the car be enough to hold the studs from turning? If not, I'd probably get my drill or Dremel out and remove the nut the hard way.

Fred K-OR · 09-25-2015, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If you remove the jack, will the weight of the car be enough to hold the studs from turning? If not, I'd probably get my drill or Dremel out and remove the nut the hard way.

I also did mine the way Tom mentioned. It is the hard way but if all else fails, this may be the last option. You will need to then replace the studs.

Karl · 09-26-2015, 03:05 PM

Untighten the ones that aren't spinning. Lower the car off the jack and hopefully the weight of the car will stop the studs spinning . Never let anyone use a rattle gun to remove the nuts. Thats what did one of mine but the above allowed removal of the nut. The 20 something tire shop worker having ignored my advice not to use his air tool made himself very scarce while I was fixing the problem! -Karl

09-25-2015, 11:04 AM	#1
hangarb7 Senior Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: North Versailles, PA Posts: 146	lug nut / stud spinning I did search and I know this has been discussed here before but I can't find the old posts. I have two lugs on one rear wheel spinning. I am guessing that I need to pop off the hub cap, reach in and pull the cotter key, unscrew the big nut and pull the drum off.... Then add a couple weld tacks to the lug? Am I missing anything? Thanks for your help and suggestions. JackD

09-25-2015, 11:19 AM	#2
Charles Coe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pace, FL near Pensacola Posts: 374	Re: lug nut / stud spinning The lug is supposed to be swaged in the hub. They have a projection on them to keep them from turning if they are pulled tight in the hub. Some do tack weld them rather than swage but swaging is the best way to go.

09-25-2015, 11:31 AM	#3
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,757	Re: lug nut / stud spinning Not very likely that you will be able to get the drum off without a puller and you need the wheel off to use a puller. Bob

09-25-2015, 11:35 AM	#4
John Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Richmond, VA Posts: 189	Re: lug nut / stud spinning Be careful if you weld the stud to the hub as there is little clearance between the emergency brake apparatus and the hub. If you swage the stud to the drum, it takes a tool available from the Model A vendors and a press capable of more than 20 tons. The force needed is about 20-25 tons and a 20 ton Harbor Freight press just will not make it. See the link here below for an example of my club installing lugs with a fabricated jig for holding a home made die. https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=bbWsOSU3lJ8 John

09-25-2015, 11:55 AM	#5
hangarb7 Senior Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: North Versailles, PA Posts: 146	Re: lug nut / stud spinning wow, now I am actually worried. I am a relative newbie and just accomplished my first front brake jobs on the car. Regarding getting the drum off, certainly someone has had this issue before. How was it done if you need a puller? I assume you need a puller because of the spline shaft...? Thanks

09-25-2015, 12:06 PM	#6
Bruce_MO Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 433	Re: lug nut / stud spinning Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I honestly have never really had to use a puller to get a drum off. But I've had a number that were REALLY tough and I cussed a lot. Back off the adjuster as much as possible and all the other stuff (undo emerg brake rod and service brake rod), and keep your fingers crossed. And yes, I have a drum on one A that someone tacked the studs to the hub. As John says, I had to grind them down because I had some contact. Good luck

09-25-2015, 12:07 PM	#7
Mel Gross Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 909	Re: lug nut / stud spinning Jack; I do a lot of swedging of brake drums / hubs and don't recommend tack welding the studs at all. I would be glad to remove the bad studs and swedge in new ones at no labor cost. You would only need to pay for the replacement studs and shipping cost both directions. But better yet, why not replace both rear drums with new cast iron ones? I have new cast iron drums and can to this for you. If interested, then call me at 714-292-8660 Thanks Randy Gross

09-25-2015, 12:11 PM	#8
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,757	Re: lug nut / stud spinning Here's a thread that may help. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...highlight=lugs Bob

09-25-2015, 12:51 PM	#9
larrys40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St Charles , Missouri Posts: 1,998	Re: lug nut / stud spinning Jack It's a dilemma as you indicated . I would do as you said and after pulling hubcap and cotter back off the axle nut a little (several threads) and drive the car carefully around the block and see if the hub comes loose . Hopefully it will . You may tray and see before you so that if it doesn't come loose anyway as many are not tight. Hopefully this will work and you can remove safely. Repeat if necessary. I have had to do this several times though the years and been successful each time . Let us know how it goes . As randy gross said it may be the best time to convert to cast iron if you wish to and his offer is certainly generous. Larry Shepard

09-25-2015, 01:21 PM	#10
burner31 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Shawnee, Ok Posts: 3,471	Re: lug nut / stud spinning A nut splitter maybe? __________________ Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B

09-25-2015, 01:29 PM	#11
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: lug nut / stud spinning If you remove the jack, will the weight of the car be enough to hold the studs from turning? If not, I'd probably get my drill or Dremel out and remove the nut the hard way.

09-26-2015, 03:05 PM	#13
Karl Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Manawatu, New Zealand Posts: 1,416	Re: lug nut / stud spinning Untighten the ones that aren't spinning. Lower the car off the jack and hopefully the weight of the car will stop the studs spinning . Never let anyone use a rattle gun to remove the nuts. Thats what did one of mine but the above allowed removal of the nut. The 20 something tire shop worker having ignored my advice not to use his air tool made himself very scarce while I was fixing the problem! -Karl