The Ford Barn

FrankWest · 09-23-2014, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RHD

I never trim the long cork seal. Seat it at both ends and fit the pan watching the gasket does not slip from either side of the seal while compressing with the pan. (Easier said than done). It will compress and when fitted properly they very seldom leak. I have used this method for 49 years with good results.This suggestion was told to me by a Model 'A' mechanic of the day. He died some 35 years ago and he told me the cork seals were made that length for a purpose. He said that Ford never gave anything away. Use a good (expensive) gasket cement. Never use RTV.
Re tighten pan bolts after a short time.

Gasket cement?
What is Permetex 2? is that an RTV

larrys40 · 09-23-2014, 01:17 PM

Before you start make sure the back of the pan and curve is good and undamaged/unbent/free of damage.

I have installed many and this is my process. I would fit the rail gaskets first... you may have to take a razor blade and trim very slightly the tang that goes into the rear cap recess for the cork. Then, fit the cork in tight on the cap. it is a mistake to just put the ends of the cork in the ends of the cap and put it up and hope it all lines up and seals. Whoever said that.. I'm sorry, that was bad advice. I don't mean to hurt your feelings but you will definately have leaks if you do it that way.

The cork must be fit in the channel and forced in a little with a plastic helper or the tip of a flatblade. I take a small rubber hammer and tap in the cork to seat it on the cap channel. It should fit very tight. Then when you get to the other side you will have to trim the cork. Don't cut it short or you will have a leak. I then remove the paper rail tank and put a dab of rtv at the rail/cap corner and work back in the tank till the back pan hole lines up... Once you get that in and the rest of the rail gasket sealed up you're ready to put the pan up. I use the oil pan helpers as it keeps the pan up and the gaskets in place while you're putting the pan up. I also use a home-aid oil pump holder in the side hole to keep the oil pump up. You can make your own or they now sell them new.

If it's leaking I wouldn't mess time and money on dye.. just fix it. Make sure your pan is clean, dipper tray in good and tight, not bent, spring on bottom of oil pump good ( must keep oil pump engaged)

If you're fast it's less than an hour. If your slow it's more....
Good luck!
larry Shepard

FrankWest · 09-23-2014, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larrys40

Before you start make sure the back of the pan and curve is good and undamaged/unbent/free of damage.

I have installed many and this is my process. I would fit the rail gaskets first... you may have to take a razor blade and trim very slightly the tang that goes into the rear cap recess for the cork. Then, fit the cork in tight on the cap. it is a mistake to just put the ends of the cork in the ends of the cap and put it up and hope it all lines up and seals. Whoever said that.. I'm sorry, that was bad advice. I don't mean to hurt your feelings but you will definately have leaks if you do it that way.

The cork must be fit in the channel and forced in a little with a plastic helper or the tip of a flatblade. I take a small rubber hammer and tap in the cork to seat it on the cap channel. It should fit very tight. Then when you get to the other side you will have to trim the cork. Don't cut it short or you will have a leak. I then remove the paper rail tank and put a dab of rtv at the rail/cap corner and work back in the tank till the back pan hole lines up... Once you get that in and the rest of the rail gasket sealed up you're ready to put the pan up. I use the oil pan helpers as it keeps the pan up and the gaskets in place while you're putting the pan up. I also use a home-aid oil pump holder in the side hole to keep the oil pump up. You can make your own or they now sell them new.

If it's leaking I wouldn't mess time and money on dye.. just fix it. Make sure your pan is clean, dipper tray in good and tight, not bent, spring on bottom of oil pump good ( must keep oil pump engaged)

If you're fast it's less than an hour. If your slow it's more....
Good luck!
larry Shepard

The cork strip goes into the slot in the block right, and the long two sides gaskets are stuk to the engine block, right?

Joe K · 09-23-2014, 01:34 PM

Quote:

I don't mean to hurt your feelings but you will definately have leaks if you do it that way.

Wow.

I'm ALWAYS careful to leave the door open to other opine.

The board is like a party. Some you meet and you like to converse with them further. Others you meet and you can't wait to get away from them.

And it can depend on the subject matter too. But the differences are more often due to something more, um, fundamental.

I wish Frank well. With all the suggestions/methodologies/reasons, he likely will find the one that works best for him.

And THAT is the point of the board - not making petty judgment.

A party killer if ever there was one.

Joe K

larrys40 · 09-23-2014, 05:38 PM

Correct , I should have added that either Permatex number 2 or rtv can be used in the gaskets.
Joe, not sure your comment is directed at me but I think I've replace enough pan gaskets and have a good enough reputation for quality work to say I don't generally have problems after installing a pan . After time, they all leak. Cork gets old and hard/ pan bolts loosen with gasket crush, etc .
I've always had to trim them to fit, the key is to make sure your cormers are tight and sealed, pan is ok, and a good tight fit around the cap. Not sure there's all that many methods to vary here . Maybe I'm mistaken, but seems like your response is the party killer and judgement
Happy Model A motoring!
Larry Shepard

Don S · 09-23-2014, 06:20 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Sorry my initial thread has caused others to get off the track. I appreciate all suggestions.This hobby has been active for a very long time,so methods,materials and personalities have changed. Lets keep it civil,there are always more than one way to a successful conclusion. To those of you that have done this under the car,like myself,it is fairly difficult to get the cork seal in place when there is very little room to work let alone see.Pulling the engine is not an option. Cheers

Don S · 09-25-2014, 10:57 AM

Cork seal inplace, new front seal,the rest done with RTV Gasket maker. All is well, no leaks ! I realize that the next removal will require a bit of clean-up before re-installation,but that is ok.The reason for pan removal was to stop the leak. Mission accomplished. Thanks for your input,great and varied as usual.

09-23-2014, 01:17 PM	#22
larrys40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St Charles , Missouri Posts: 1,998	Re: oil pan rear seal Before you start make sure the back of the pan and curve is good and undamaged/unbent/free of damage. I have installed many and this is my process. I would fit the rail gaskets first... you may have to take a razor blade and trim very slightly the tang that goes into the rear cap recess for the cork. Then, fit the cork in tight on the cap. it is a mistake to just put the ends of the cork in the ends of the cap and put it up and hope it all lines up and seals. Whoever said that.. I'm sorry, that was bad advice. I don't mean to hurt your feelings but you will definately have leaks if you do it that way. The cork must be fit in the channel and forced in a little with a plastic helper or the tip of a flatblade. I take a small rubber hammer and tap in the cork to seat it on the cap channel. It should fit very tight. Then when you get to the other side you will have to trim the cork. Don't cut it short or you will have a leak. I then remove the paper rail tank and put a dab of rtv at the rail/cap corner and work back in the tank till the back pan hole lines up... Once you get that in and the rest of the rail gasket sealed up you're ready to put the pan up. I use the oil pan helpers as it keeps the pan up and the gaskets in place while you're putting the pan up. I also use a home-aid oil pump holder in the side hole to keep the oil pump up. You can make your own or they now sell them new. If it's leaking I wouldn't mess time and money on dye.. just fix it. Make sure your pan is clean, dipper tray in good and tight, not bent, spring on bottom of oil pump good ( must keep oil pump engaged) If you're fast it's less than an hour. If your slow it's more.... Good luck! larry Shepard

09-23-2014, 05:38 PM	#25
larrys40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St Charles , Missouri Posts: 1,998	Re: oil pan rear seal Correct , I should have added that either Permatex number 2 or rtv can be used in the gaskets. Joe, not sure your comment is directed at me but I think I've replace enough pan gaskets and have a good enough reputation for quality work to say I don't generally have problems after installing a pan . After time, they all leak. Cork gets old and hard/ pan bolts loosen with gasket crush, etc . I've always had to trim them to fit, the key is to make sure your cormers are tight and sealed, pan is ok, and a good tight fit around the cap. Not sure there's all that many methods to vary here . Maybe I'm mistaken, but seems like your response is the party killer and judgement Happy Model A motoring! Larry Shepard

09-23-2014, 06:20 PM	#26
Don S Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Penticton British Columbia Canada Posts: 244	Re: oil pan rear seal Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Sorry my initial thread has caused others to get off the track. I appreciate all suggestions.This hobby has been active for a very long time,so methods,materials and personalities have changed. Lets keep it civil,there are always more than one way to a successful conclusion. To those of you that have done this under the car,like myself,it is fairly difficult to get the cork seal in place when there is very little room to work let alone see.Pulling the engine is not an option. Cheers

09-25-2014, 10:57 AM	#27
Don S Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Penticton British Columbia Canada Posts: 244	Re: oil pan rear seal Cork seal inplace, new front seal,the rest done with RTV Gasket maker. All is well, no leaks ! I realize that the next removal will require a bit of clean-up before re-installation,but that is ok.The reason for pan removal was to stop the leak. Mission accomplished. Thanks for your input,great and varied as usual.