6 to 12v conversion.

[rol1949]

Please recommend the least expensive place to purchase a 6 volt to 12 volt conversion kit for a 1949 F1 flathead six. Thanks.

[39portlander]

Not sure about a specific conversion kit but this may help get you started....

Books: "the official 12-volt conversion guide", Randy Rundle
Thunder Road electrical guide, Bill Sinclair
How to wire your streetrod, start to finish, Jack Sweeden

I got a Ford one wire alternator and bracket from Certified Auto Electric in Ohio, 1888-597-8278. certifiedautoelectric.com

and finally, get the Ron Francis Wiring catalog & encyclopedia, 1800-292-1940. RonFrancis.com Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Least expensive in this hobby means trouble, try to get good AMERICAN MADE products that are proven and reliable.

[rol1949]

Thanks for your reply.

[JSeery]

Don't know of a "kit". Here is one source of basic information: http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/6v-to-12v.html

There are a number of threads on the topic both here on the Barn and on the HAMB. If your existing wiring is in good shape it is heaver than what is required for 12v so fine as is.

[rol1949]

Thanks.

[1937hemi]

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try vintage auto garage for a kit. For inexpensive wiring harness try Speedway.
They sell a universal kit that is a lot less money than Ron Francis or Painless or Rebel Wiring. It's listed a under the Speedway brand and comes in a 12 circuit and a 22 circuit harness. If car is basically stock then the 12 circuit is all you need. If you are adding extras (radio, a/c, power windows, etc.) you will need the 22 circuit
www.vintageautogarage.com/6V-12V-Kits-s/2583.htm
www. speedwaymotors.com

[chap52]

Went with a Ron Francis set-up years ago. Even installed an elec, thermo controlled radiator cooling fan at the time. No regrets, however you pay a lot for the brand name and I am sure that a Speedway set-up would have saved some $.
Lots of posts on here to help you decide.
Enjoy the advenure, Chap

[19Fordy]

Here's some excellent info.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...nvert+12+volts
Plus this: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...olt+conversion

Do a SEARCH for "How to convert to 12 volts" and tons of info worth reading will appear.
More info. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...2+volts&page=2 and
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...2+volts&page=2

Your 6V starter will still work on 12V, but may wear out over time. Then you can convert your starter to 12V as shown below.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...6v+starter+12v

Don't forget voltage to heater and horn relay. Do a Fordbarn search on this as it has been explained previously.

[rotorwrench]

On electricals, I go for best quality. Sorting problems on the side of the road is no fun. The least expensive way to do a conversion like this is to first understand all the changes that need to be made and then purchase the best quality components from whom ever offers the best price.

[19Fordy]

I second Mr. rotorwrench.
For instance, use a Ron Francis Constant Voltage Reducer under the dash to get a consistent 6 volts to your gauges. Also, if your truck uses a voltage gauge, one of the above posts tells how to reduce the incoming 12V so the gauge will still read properly.

[Cecil/WV]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

I second Mr. rotorwrench.
For instance, use a Ron Francis Constant Voltage Reducer under the dash to get a consistent 6 volts to your gauges. Also, if your truck uses a voltage gauge, one of the above posts tells how to reduce the incoming 12V so the gauge will still read properly.

Somebody changed my '52 F 7, formerly a firetruck, to 12v before I bought it in the early '90's and it has no voltage reducers or anything else to reduce the voltage to the gauges. I have driven it all over and all the gauges work correctly. I was sure surprised to find no voltage reducers on it anywhere except the coil.

[19Fordy]

Amazing! Wonder how that can be? You're a lucky fellow.

[JSeery]

The gauges and senders work off of current pulsing, not voltage. But in the Ford manuals they suggest using higher voltages to do testing and warn to only use it for a short period of time. If it was not an issue Ford would not have installed voltage reducers when they switched to 12 volts. I would suspect there is voltage reducer somewhere in the system that is just not easy to see.

[Cecil/WV]

Originally Posted by JSeery

The gauges and senders work off of current pulsing, not voltage. But in the Ford manuals they suggest using higher voltages to do testing and warn to only use it for a short period of time. If it was not an issue Ford would not have installed voltage reducers when they switched to 12 volts. I would suspect there is voltage reducer somewhere in the system that is just not easy to see.

Sorry, JSeery, I did a frame off restoration in 2013 and replaced all the wiring harness and was hesitant to not put in a reducer, but thought I would try it and it works fine. I thought the way you did until I totally dissembled the truck and removed the harness that I used for a pattern to hand build my new harness.

[estout81]

Cecil,
When I first put my '48 together I ran my gauges on 12V and they worked fine. Later I added a Ford style voltage regulator and the gauges and they worked fine. Saw no difference in accuracy. Don't know if it's right or wrong, just what I did.

[Jeff/Illinois]

I looked at a '36 Ford pickup years ago that the guy made the 12V 'conversion'.

He popped a 12V battery into the truck and 'voila', 12 volts. Problem was he fried everything told me he had to grab a fire extinguisher. And he still wanted 50% more than the truck was worth. It was for sale for a long time!

[donald1950]

http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/

Randy can supply all the parts and ligature you need.

when i converted my 50 & 53 passenger cars, i used a Ron Francis VR-4 reducer for my gauges and heater motor. worked fine. if you have an overdrive there are no voltage reducer that will sufficiently handle the solenoid load. PM me if i can assist.

https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=VR-4

[estout81]

NAPA IR1 is all you need for gauges. Goes between switch and gauges. That's what Ford did.

[Bill S]

Why not post the state and town you live in. Bet someone will sit down with a cup of coffee and help you out.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Cecil/WV

Sorry, JSeery, I did a frame off restoration in 2013 and replaced all the wiring harness and was hesitant to not put in a reducer, but thought I would try it and it works fine. I thought the way you did until I totally dissembled the truck and removed the harness that I used for a pattern to hand build my new harness.

Like I posted the gauges and senders operate off of current, not voltage. But, if it was me I would heed Fords advice on the voltage reducer, they were not known to spend money needlessly. As always to each their own.