Testing blocks in the home shop

[GB SISSON]

I have 9 or 10 V8 blocks here and the majority came to me as bare blocks. The rest I stripped down myself. All are 24 stud blocks. Approximately half are early style, mostly 59ab, the rest 8ba style. As many of you know I live on an island with no machine shop. I would really like to check all these blocks, none of which are more than .040 over. Back story is they came from a neighbor who is a mechanic and owns 5 or 6 'tri-five' chevys and "not a fan of the flatheads". The engines had belonged to his father in law (one of us), but he sold his farm and moved into a small space so off they went. I was told that the FIL had scrapped 13 bad blocks but kept these because they were good builders. I see one visible crack in the whole lot, typical valve to cylinder, and one block with a valve seat peened around the circumference that looks like it was run that way. I wouldn't.
About 5 years ago I used a pressure test kit that was loaned to me by a fellow barner. It was simple and worked well on the one engine I had at the time. Apparently these are no longer offered so I would like to build one. The borrowed one had steel plates to block off heads and pumps. (too much work to build)...My thought is use actual heads with an 1/8" epdm rubber sheet gasket, gutted water pumps with a solid sheet gasket, also rubber. I have probably 30 heads and 20 water pumps kicking around. Pipe plugs and expansion plugs where needed. I even thought the water pump gaskets could be made from inner tubes containing the valve stem. Anybody made a home pressure tester kit? Any and all ideas welcomed as long as I don't have to bother a machine shop....Maybe I will start a seperate thread on home brewed magnaflux afterwards. Thanks!

[Ken/Alabama]

Gotta ask, so is peening around a valve seat a bad idea? I’ve never done it but I have a Kwik-Way tool for that very purpose. Just curious

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

I have 9 or 10 V8 blocks here and the majority came to me as bare blocks. The rest I stripped down myself. All are 24 stud blocks. Approximately half are early style, mostly 59ab, the rest 8ba style. As many of you know I live on an island with no machine shop. I would really like to check all these blocks, none of which are more than .040 over. Back story is they came from a neighbor who is a mechanic and owns 5 or 6 'tri-five' chevys and "not a fan of the flatheads". The engines had belonged to his father in law (one of us), but he sold his farm and moved into a small space so off they went. I was told that the FIL had scrapped 13 bad blocks but kept these because they were good builders. I see one visible crack in the whole lot, typical valve to cylinder, and one block with a valve seat peened around the circumference that looks like it was run that way. I wouldn't.
About 5 years ago I used a pressure test kit that was loaned to me by a fellow barner. It was simple and worked well on the one engine I had at the time. Apparently these are no longer offered so I would like to build one. The borrowed one had steel plates to block off heads and pumps. (too much work to build)...My thought is use actual heads with an 1/8" epdm rubber sheet gasket, gutted water pumps with a solid sheet gasket, also rubber. I have probably 30 heads and 20 water pumps kicking around. Pipe plugs and expansion plugs where needed. I even thought the water pump gaskets could be made from inner tubes containing the valve stem. Anybody made a home pressure tester kit? Any and all ideas welcomed as long as I don't have to bother a machine shop....Maybe I will start a seperate thread on home brewed magnaflux afterwards. Thanks!

[tomcarman]

Gary,
Probably a stupid idea on my part since I'm not a diagnostics mechanic (I can only wrench and do a bolt in replacement) but years ago I worked running HVAC equipment and natural gas lines. Upon completion of the install we pressure tested the components and looked for leaks using a simple spray bottle with liquid soap mixed up. If it bubbled there was a leak. If not, it was sealed. You could tell right away. If you plugged everything and tested for leaks this way at least you'd know if it was your install or the pressure was exiting elsewhere. Inner tubes to my way of thinking would seal quite well assuming the curvature of the membrane wouldn't interfere under compression. Getting something air tight can be quite a challenge. Give it a try, you're not out much if anything except your time.
Tom

[A bones]

Found 2 post in the archive that speak of making plates.
Head gasket as pattern to cut combustion chamber shape.
One flame cut steel plate. Looks bad works good. Plus plate to cover W-pump hole.
Other one sawed some thick aluminum plate.

[cas3]

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I like the idea, and have always wanted to do the same. Inner tubes is a good idea. Maybe sacrifice a couple bad heads and close them off with epoxy or braze? I have some heavy rubber belting from a conveyer that was going to be the gasket, but tubes would be easier I believe. I wont sleep tonight thinking about the home made magnafluxer !

[ford38v8]

I’m thinking inner tube thickness varies too much, and curvature if the tubes would also compromise the seal. A lot of wasted effort trying to make inner tubes to seal if good flat rubber sheeting is available. Time is money even when retired.

[cas3]

Old truck tubes are thick and wide. The tubes I took out of my army jeep last year probably weigh 8-10 pounds each, the tire was dated 1952, and I would not be afraid to use them again ! perfect for head gaskets I believe

[Bored&Stroked]

On the plate itself, you need to be able to easily inspect the ports, chambers and bores for leaks (and spray a soap-based solution and look for bubbles). What this means is that you need access to the ports and bores while pressure testing.

So, take an old head and if you have access to a really good drill press of better yet milling machine, then you can use a good ole' hole saw at slow speeds to bore through a stock head - in the bore areas and valve areas (two cutters) to make a pressure plate. Is it a lot of work . . . sure . . . but unless you want to have a machine shop make you one, there isn't much other choice. Just a thought . . .

B&S

[FritzJr]

You can do a simple Pass/Fail test just using the heads. Just install some heads so that are known to be good and block off all the water openings. Fill the block with water and pressurize. If the assembly will hold pressure, you are good to go. If it does not, it may be difficult to determine the source of the leak.

[marko39]

Originally Posted by FritzJr

You can do a simple Pass/Fail test just using the heads. Just install some heads so that are known to be good and block off all the water openings. Fill the block with water and pressurize. If the assembly will hold pressure, you are good to go. If it does not, it may be difficult to determine the source of the leak.

i tested my 51 block with the heads and water pumps and found air leakage around the gaskets at 20 psi. i replaced the pump gaskets with thick rubber and copper coated the head gaskets and got it to hold pressure for 2 hours which i considered a success. i was spraying soapy water everywhere and the only bubbles were around the gaskets. air will leak easier than water.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by marko39

i tested my 51 block with the heads and water pumps and found air leakage around the gaskets at 20 psi. i replaced the pump gaskets with thick rubber and copper coated the head gaskets and got it to hold pressure for 2 hours which i considered a success. i was spraying soapy water everywhere and the only bubbles were around the gaskets. air will leak easier than water.

I had the same problem with the setup I made. The water pump block-off was 1/4" aluminum and would leak with the regular gaskets. I made special gaskets from thick rubber which solved the problem. I see no reason for special head block-off plates when there are a lot of extra heads around. My setup is for an 8BA type engine. The plate with the gauge bolts on in place of the thermostat housing; it also has a Schrader valve. The vinyl cap can be used to block off the water pump outlets and allows testing without removing the water pumps (which allows testing in the car). Bad water pump seals complicate the process, but usually it works. I would imagine something similar could be cobbled up for the earlier engines using some radiator hose and the proper sized tubing.

[deuce5wndw]

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Offen...Kit,25045.html

I bought one of these and it works like a charm!
edit: I just noticed they are on backorder! Sorry

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by deuce5wndw

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Offen...Kit,25045.html

I bought one of these and it works like a charm!
edit: I just noticed they are on backorder! Sorry

Gotta say that speedway set looks pretty nice with the added plus of viewing of valve pockets. That's about 30 bucks per block when a guy has ten of em! I have two friends on the island that have plasma tables. I don't really understand how they work, except that they work remarkably well. They scan an object (head?) and it goes into the computor, at that point it can be altered, then the thing cuts out your steel plate into whatever is on the program. It is mind boggling seeing this apparatus cut 1" steel plate with no slag and all the cuts are perfectly plumb etc, etc.... I can talk to them. On the hillbilly front, I wonder if my bosch jig saw with a good lenox blade would cut the heads open? I suppose I should start with the solid sheet of rubber under a stock head anb see what I find. I assume I will need to at least put a knife cut through each cylinder location on my rubber gasket....

[ursus]

I made gaskets from scrap pieces of vinyl flooring. Easier to cut and punch out stud holes compared to rubber sheeting and the cost was zero. This went under a stock head which was magnafluxed separately by the same shop that performed the pressure test. The machinist said the vinyl flooring gasket worked well for the test. Separate gaskets were made from the same material for the water inlet/outlets.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

Gotta ask, so is peening around a valve seat a bad idea? I’ve never done it but I have a Kwik-Way tool for that very purpose. Just curious

Mine was done quite randomly by hand with punch. I can see that the cast iron of the block actually deformed from the blows. Maybe it's fine, but if it turns out not to be, well you get it...

[Mart]

Just an idea, but do you think some nicely made wooden block offs would work? Might be up your alley, GB.

[cas3]

Excellent thinking Mart !

[B-O-B]

How about using some really thick say 3/4" maybe 1/2" clear plexiglass or some other strong clear plastic. You could use your jigsaw & hole saw. Lexan that is what I was thinking of. Made side windows for my roadster from using this.

[GB SISSON]

Some really good ideas flowing in here. I am almost finished with a recent biography of Thomas Edison. He and his 'boys' worked long hours in the lab and constantly bounced ideas off each other. We don't need no stinkin' lab!

With plywood or lexan I could fasten a head down and drill through the stud holes as a template guide. Water pumps too! If the sheet gasket was already in there, all the better....

[Karl Wolf]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

Gotta ask, so is peening around a valve seat a bad idea? I’ve never done it but I have a Kwik-Way tool for that very purpose. Just curious

If it's to hold a loose seat in place, bad idea.
It will not transfer heat well and will likely rattle around.
May further damage the block.
If the seat fits tight, won't hurt, but no help.

Karl

[Karl Wolf]

I had a shop with a flame cutter use a head gasket to cut a steel plate for the combustion chamber shapes, then I clamped the plate to a cylinder head to drill the head bolt holes.
Gasket material is a theatrical dance floor rubber like material called "Marley".
This comes in huge expensive rolls. You may be able to hunt up used from a theater.

Karl

[Dave/Green Bay]

Flatjack9 here on the Barn fills the block with water then pressurizes if you see water anywhere you have a problems makes it easy to check. exhaust posts . Dave/Green Bay

[GB SISSON]

How many lbs pressure would be considered normal for a machine shop test?

[B-O-B]

Just remember to coat the plywood as it could swell if it got too wet too long.

[flatford8]

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Originally Posted by GB SISSON

How many lbs pressure would be considered normal for a machine shop test?

I have the Speedway kit. I think it works great and I tested a Merc block I tested at 55# for an hour and a half. I figured it was worth working on.......Mark

[40 Deluxe]

My idea is to bolt on the heads and water pumps. Use short lengths of radiator hose with freeze plugs clamped in the ends to block off. Get a cheap leak detector kit that uses florescent dye and a black light. Use the dye meant for oil and mix with Diesel fuel and fill the block. You will need little or no pressure as Diesel is good at wicking its way through tiny cracks. Carefully drain the diesel fuel, pull the heads and use the black light to look for cracks.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

My idea is to bolt on the heads and water pumps. Use short lengths of radiator hose with freeze plugs clamped in the ends to block off. Get a cheap leak detector kit that uses florescent dye and a black light. Use the dye meant for oil and mix with Diesel fuel and fill the block. You will need little or no pressure as Diesel is good at wicking its way through tiny cracks. Carefully drain the diesel fuel, pull the heads and use the black light to look for cracks.

I like this. Sounds like it would be hard to miss a crack with this system. I would still use rubber head gasket and dummy water pumps. This way I'm only testing the block. Amazon has a Mastercraft UV test kit with everything needed for the test. Price is 60 bucks. I have used trailer balls in the past to cap off hoses on my run stand. BUT... With Mark's 55 psi in there the block better be filled with liquid and not much air. Think 'potato cannon'.....

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I made water pump block off plates with a gauge, used heads and head gaskets. I used a bicycle pump to pressurize a water filled system and looked for leakage the next day.

I also pumped up with air only and submerged it in a big plastic tub over night and found no bubbles or burps. Gauge held steady.

I did find the typical "part number" cracks with dye penetrant and that was it. I was lucky.

If I did have bubbles or water leaks with this setup I would not be able to look into the cylinders but, I WOULD know there are cracks to investigate.

I made my test kit with what I had on hand.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Scotty's 52 F3

I made water pump block off plates with a gauge, used heads and head gaskets. I used a bicycle pump to pressurize a water filled system and looked for leakage the next day.

I also pumped up with air only and submerged it in a big plastic tub over night and found no bubbles or burps. Gauge held steady.

I did find the typical "part number" cracks with dye penetrant and that was it. I was lucky.

If I did have bubbles or water leaks with this setup I would not be able to look into the cylinders but, I WOULD know there are cracks to investigate.

I made my test kit with what I had on hand.

Excellent job there Scotty! I have every reason to believe that your double testing procedure was at least as thorough and accurate as I would get from a machine shop. Maybe on the first test I would use the diesel fuel and dye procedure, as when the heads or plates are removed the light will show just where that pesky crack is. If the block was on a typical engine stand, wouldn't the water/diesel/dye drip onto the floor below the affected cylinder? Another question... Would the block off heads and water pumps be the exact same parts for testing all 24 stud engines?
I almost wonder if it would even be necessary to magnaflux a block that passes Scotty's x2 procedure. Of course there's that part of me that wants to make some kinda coil by wrapping a cast iron sash weight with a thousand turns of copper wire and some diodes and vacuum tubes with a big rheostat and a couple of knife switches.... Obviously I know nothing about magnafluxing (or electricity for that matter.) What test would a typical machine shop perform first, and why?

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Thanks Gary. I had a set of head gaskets that were given to me is why I used them. I don't remember the brand. I sprayed them with white grease to hopefully be able to reuse them for testing purposes. I never tried though. I only had the one extra block. I stuck them in a plastic bag just in case.

My water pump plates are 1/4" plate I had laying around. Rubber sheet gasket material. It's been a few years so I don't remember if I made one water pump plate and checked one side at a time. I think you can flip it and use on both sides. I'd have to go dig out my kit from the shed.

I know my heads aren't cracked either.

[cas3]

I made a water pump block off plate just so I could fill the block with evaporust. It worked on both sides, although for this purpose I only did one side at a time. 1/4" thick, used silly cone for the seal.

[flatford8]

“What test would a typical machine shop perform first, and why?” you have to come up with a way to really clean the inside too......I’m not sure if that should be done before or after the pressure test....does anyone think that cleaning the scale out could expose a crack., post pressure test. Making the test wrong. I used 55# as a test pressure because someone on here said they used 80# and somebody else said 25# was plenty....I went in the middle...Mark

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by deuce5wndw

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Offen...Kit,25045.html

I bought one of these and it works like a charm!
edit: I just noticed they are on backorder! Sorry

Same here. Will be using it for three blocks in a few weeks.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by flatford8

“What test would a typical machine shop perform first, and why?” you have to come up with a way to really clean the inside too......I’m not sure if that should be done before or after the pressure test....does anyone think that cleaning the scale out could expose a crack., post pressure test. Making the test wrong. I used 55# as a test pressure because someone on here said they used 80# and somebody else said 25# was plenty....I went in the middle...Mark

I would clean as much scale and debris out first before testing.

[Karl Wolf]

Having done this in an automotive machine shop for years...
1) magnaflux top of block
2) pressure test block, 30 lb. air pressure would be ok.
3) use soap in water to look for bubbles. All over, inside and under block.
4) as a finish, raise air pressure to the point where the pressure
the test plate starts to leak air- 50/75 lbs. Look more.
Karl

[GB SISSON]

I have a pretty powerful pressure washer. I have an extra wand I could alter if needed. Seems maybe with the flywheel end up high, one could blast down into the head cooling holes, starting in the back, maybe a steel wire too. Drag/blast out loose stuff, then soak with vinegar/evaporust/some kinda acid?

[flatford8]

I found a broken parking brake cable that I used on my drill. I tipped the water pump openings down and ran the spinning cable in every place I could get it. Then used air pressure. A lot of stuff settles in there.......Mark

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by flatford8

I found a broken parking brake cable that I used on my drill. I tipped the water pump openings down and ran the spinning cable in every place I could get it. Then used air pressure. A lot of stuff settles in there.......Mark

Excellent! A rotary whip with ragged ends. I have a couple nice long cables from a tonner. I was thinking it could unwind up there if you spun it in the wrong direction and then I got to thinking you might have the outer casing involved as well. Pretty much a rotor-rooter, I like it! So after this, it's the pressure test. While the test kit is hooked up a good time for a vinegar soak?
Can't wait to learn about magna-fluxing.

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I did like you mentioned and blasted as much as possible with my pressure washer.

Then used cable in a drill and more picking and blasting.

Then a soak with phosphoric acid and it looks like new metal inside. It only dissolves rust. Will not damage the block.

I got it at Home Depot in the paint dept. Kleen Strip I think? It's for paint prep. About $14 a gallon the last time I bought it. I used it straight.

[GB SISSON]

Thanks all! This has been really informative and can save me a LOT of time, money and trouble hauling blocks over to the mainland. Of course when we are headed 'Over Town', i'm wearing my clean (work)clothes because we are usually going to see a doctor or some such.....and more often than not, we're in my wife's subaru wagon. Of course on the way home it's full of stuff from costco and sacks of bargain brand chicken feed for her hens. And the dog needs some room back there too. All that aside, I like doing things myself in MY shop.

[cas3]

Sounds like Jonny cash- " I put on my cleanest dirty shirt" ! , I resemble that remark. So, we are talking about pressure testing, but have gotten somewhat side tracked with preliminary cleaning. I've posted this before, but here's what I got out of one side of an old block. I bought the longest skinny screwdriver I could find, then taped a piece of copper tubing to the shop vac that fit in the block, then scraped and chipped and hacked with the screw driver and occasionally vacuumed it all out. ya gotta get all the way to the bottom, and its mushy down there so dig harder. Once done, I did Evaporust one side at a time.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by cas3

Sounds like Jonny cash- " I put on my cleanest dirty shirt" ! , I resemble that remark. So, we are talking about pressure testing, but have gotten somewhat side tracked with preliminary cleaning. I've posted this before, but here's what I got out of one side of an old block. I bought the longest skinny screwdriver I could find, then taped a piece of copper tubing to the shop vac that fit in the block, then scraped and chipped and hacked with the screw driver and occasionally vacuumed it all out. ya gotta get all the way to the bottom, and its mushy down there so dig harder. Once done, I did Evaporust one side at a time.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by cas3

Sounds like Jonny cash- " I put on my cleanest dirty shirt" ! , I resemble that remark. So, we are talking about pressure testing, but have gotten somewhat side tracked with preliminary cleaning. I've posted this before, but here's what I got out of one side of an old block. I bought the longest skinny screwdriver I could find, then taped a piece of copper tubing to the shop vac that fit in the block, then scraped and chipped and hacked with the screw driver and occasionally vacuumed it all out. ya gotta get all the way to the bottom, and its mushy down there so dig harder. Once done, I did Evaporust one side at a time.

Wow! That's a load of crap you got outa there. I am really getting excited to test all these blocks. I did sneak ahead and watch a 5 minute video called 'what is magnafluxing?'. Way more straightforward than I would have thought. Anybody have an opinion on electro-magnet vs permanent magnet. Video says either one works and this guy likes his old permanent one. One thought comes to mind is I have always wanted to own a magnetic drill press. Would it do double duty as my block magnetizer?

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Wow! That's a load of crap you got outa there. I am really getting excited to test all these blocks. I did sneak ahead and watch a 5 minute video called 'what is magnafluxing?'. Way more straightforward than I would have thought. Anybody have an opinion on electro-magnet vs permanent magnet. Video says either one works and this guy likes his old permanent one. One thought comes to mind is I have always wanted to own a magnetic drill press. Would it do double duty as my block magnetizer?

I recall someone selling an inexpensive kit for the home garage. I can't seem to find it with a Google search.

[cmbrucew]

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Wrap a welding cable around it 3 or 4 wraps and weld.


Bruce

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

I recall someone selling an inexpensive kit for the home garage. I can't seem to find it with a Google search.

I saw a guy using an aerosol spray device from Eastwood. Has a holder for 4 small vials. A cleaner, a prep, a red dye and lastly a chalky white spray that outlines a crack. Not magnaflux, but a very portable device a guy might wanna take to a swap meet or to the shed behind somebody's barn when following up on a craigslist ad.
P.S. If there's even a hint of banjo music, go back to your truck and grab that other device from your glove box.....

[slowforty]

I wonder if heating up a block would do any good. An Older relative, now gone, Used to heat up Flat head blocks on a wood stove before he welded up cracks . When he got a little to careless when doing a porting job. They were ready to weld up when he spit on them and it sizzled.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by cmbrucew

Wrap a welding cable around it 3 or 4 wraps and weld.


Bruce

Bruce, are you saying that wrapping the welding cable around the cast iron block then welding on something will temporarilly magnetize the block, thus aligning the powder with a crack???? Like the block becomes the magnet? Maybe you were kidding, or maybe I missunderstood or maybe you are serious. I really don't know much about electricity and magnetism and in general, things I cannot see.

[cas3]

In the model T world, we wrap some 12 ga wire around a big bolt to make an electro magnet to recharge the magneto. Use 2-3 batterys in a series and zap one time. Short version from memory, but yes, I suppose if you wrapped cable around the block you would be making an electro magnet.

[tubman]

Sounds like it would work, but who has welder cables long enough?

I sure don't.

[sugarmaker]

Gary,
Did you discuss the spray crack finder. Two colors a red base and white top coat, and cracks show up? poor mans magnaflux? I used it on the 32 B block, which did have many cracks.
Regards,
Chris

[GB SISSON]

Chris, Yes that's the Eastwood kit that has the vials. Did it show up the cracks as advertised? In my youtube research I have seen some very powerful electro-magnets made by removing the primary coil from the innards of a microwave oven. Or was it the secondary coil?

[flatford8]

I think your on to it with the welder. A fabricator I know had to weld a large tank and somehow it got magnetized. He had to demagnetize (Degaussing) it. I think he wrapped the positive cable around the tank in one direction and the ground in the other direction. He was then able to weld on the tank. So, I would think wrapping one or both of the cables in the right direction may magnetize the block. Some type of store bought kit may be much easier.....Mark

[cas3]

If GB lived closer to me, we may be able to magnetize the block just by setting it on my steel table ! For some unknown reason over the last year or so the table has become a magnet. If you set down a tool, or nut and bolt when you pick it up again it has steel fuzzies all stuck to it. Very annoying if you are trying to do any clean work. I've not figured it out yet. Grinder snot ? alien invasion ? Any idea's ?

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by flatford8

I think your on to it with the welder. A fabricator I know had to weld a large tank and somehow it got magnetized. He had to demagnetize (Degaussing) it. I think he wrapped the positive cable around the tank in one direction and the ground in the other direction. He was then able to weld on the tank. So, I would think wrapping one or both of the cables in the right direction may magnetize the block. Some type of store bought kit may be much easier.....Mark

It would certainly be cheaper than 50' welding cables! From the video I saw, all that's needed is a magnet and some 14.00 powder and a modified turkey baster.. Seems the best magnet has 2 legs that straddle the bore and testing is done at 90 degree intervals. The poles have to be roughly at right angles across the crack. In other words, if the coil of the magnet is in line with a crack, it won't show up properly. Couple of questions:

Is iron a better core than steel?
How do we know how many wraps of wire are needed?
Do I need special wire with thin insulation like on a motor armature?
Is a 12 v car battery the right power source?

[GB SISSON]

I dropped off a new head gasket and water pump gasket at my buddy's fab shop so he could get the software in the cutting table computor. I mentioned I would need a price and also mentioned the out of stock speedway kit was about 250.00 with gauge and rubber gasketed bolts. His response was the labor is in the programming etc, then he can make as many parts as I want. I'm not soliciting orders here but let's just say the guy kinda grimmaced when I gave him the speedway 250.00 number. I have not heard from him and it's been 3 weeks at least. He seemed to think with that many head bolts, 1/4" plate should be fine. As much as I hate going to UPS or Post office and waiting in line (24 mile round trip).... But for yucks is anybody interested in a set of the plates? His machine 'drills' the bolt holes too. If it's too spendy in the end I will just use heads. And to revisit my magnet question, would garden varity electrical wire (as opposed to armature winding special wire) work ok? My research says a magnet in a horseshoe shape is the most powerful. PS We're going to the dump today... Our county dump includes a warehouse called 'the exchange' where folks drop of useable stuff they no longer need. Would romex house wire with the casing stripped off be an ok choice?

[Mart]

Take the wire to a metal recycler. Price for copper is sky high right now.

[cmbrucew]

Gary
Wrap your stinger wire around the block 3 times, and ground a big electrode Turn on welder and you have a magnetic field.
Bruce
Pacemakers beware!

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by cmbrucew

Gary
Wrap your stinger wire around the block 3 times, and ground a big electrode Turn on welder and you have a magnetic field.
Bruce
Pacemakers beware!

I have two welders a Hobart 175 mig and an ancient Miller AC with a 2 cyl onan. I'd have to get the miller fired up and listen to it while I test all these blocks. I think easier to just get or make a magnet. Ever since I exploded the 12 ply michelin 2' away from my ear last spring I have been having a hard time with LOUD. And I came across another pic of the haul that day and the mighty 7.3/ZF/4x4 F350.

[tetanus]

I just drew some plates up like the speedway kit. Had them cut out of 3/8 plate. I have the files I can send you. I got some 1/8 buna rubber for the gasket and cut it out. from McMaster carr and some 5/8 .083 wall tube for spacers over studs. I got a block soaking in vinegar now I’m going to pressure test after it’s cleaned out better.

[tetanus]

Here is a pic

[tetanus]

Bigger pic

[GB SISSON]

Now THAT'S what I'm talkin' about! I don't understand about the 'files', guessing my buddy loads them in his computer and he's ready to push the blast button? Did you do a water pump plate as well? Dang, yours looks great!

[Bored&Stroked]

Nice Job Tetanus: It is good that you went with 3/8" plate - that would be my minimum thickness. How was the rubber cut?

Another option is to make a thicker place - say 1" thick, have it blanchard ground and also use the plate as a "torque plate" when honing the cylinders. Might as well get a couple uses out of a "tool" like this.

Note: It is preferable to have them CNC drill the holes - at a bit oversize from 7/16. This will help with small misalignment issues as well as with and discrepancies in the actual stud locations in the original CAD file.

Also, make the bore holes 3 7/16 - to ensure that the torque plate works for any block you're going to use it on.

Best of luck GB!

[GB SISSON]

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Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Nice Job Tetanus: It is good that you went with 3/8" plate - that would be my minimum thickness. How was the rubber cut?

Another option is to make a thicker place - say 1" thick, have it blanchard ground and also use the plate as a "torque plate" when honing the cylinders. Might as well get a couple uses out of a "tool" like this.

Note: It is preferable to have them CNC drill the holes - at a bit oversize from 7/16. This will help with small misalignment issues as well as with and discrepancies in the actual stud locations in the original CAD file.

Also, make the bore holes 3 7/16 - to ensure that the torque plate works for any block you're going to use it on.

Best of luck GB!

Yes, bigger is better here up to a point. The speedway kit has cap screws with a rubber washer under trhe head. I could see the washer was not going to last too long. I'm thinking the rubber washers aren't really needed. Maybe tetanus can give us his results.

[tetanus]

the files are cad files (.Dxf) they should be able to inport them and cut em out. yes i did water pump also. i wanted to go 1/2 thick but my buddys shop only had 3/8. i cut rubber with plate clamped to it with a board under it so i could cut into it with xacto knife. the holes i got a tube that fit in hole and put a taper in i.d. until end was sharp. then just ran that in my hole shooter and it cut righ through. I did think of making it thick for torque plate also but i have one from i think kwik way or somewhere that bolts onto studs and it has a t slot for a kwik way boring head.i gave the holes a little clearance but they got a bit bigger than i wanted, the laser cuts online no offset. i have not put pressure to it yet so im not sure if it will hold. we will see.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by tetanus

the files are cad files (.Dxf) they should be able to inport them and cut em out. yes i did water pump also. i wanted to go 1/2 thick but my buddys shop only had 3/8. i cut rubber with plate clamped to it with a board under it so i could cut into it with xacto knife. the holes i got a tube that fit in hole and put a taper in i.d. until end was sharp. then just ran that in my hole shooter and it cut righ through. I did think of making it thick for torque plate also but i have one from i think kwik way or somewhere that bolts onto studs and it has a t slot for a kwik way boring head.i gave the holes a little clearance but they got a bit bigger than i wanted, the laser cuts online no offset. i have not put pressure to it yet so im not sure if it will hold. we will see.

Seems to me that even if the holes were 5/8" or so, they would compress the rubber and hold pressure, no? Should I wait to see your results before we share the cad drawings? And thank you very much for offering. My buddy says to send the drawings over! I have seen him cut 1" plate, it's pretty mind boggling what these things are capable of. Must be a game changer for a lot of industries as well as the smaller shops.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by tetanus

the files are cad files (.Dxf) they should be able to inport them and cut em out. yes i did water pump also. i wanted to go 1/2 thick but my buddys shop only had 3/8. i cut rubber with plate clamped to it with a board under it so i could cut into it with xacto knife. the holes i got a tube that fit in hole and put a taper in i.d. until end was sharp. then just ran that in my hole shooter and it cut righ through. I did think of making it thick for torque plate also but i have one from i think kwik way or somewhere that bolts onto studs and it has a t slot for a kwik way boring head.i gave the holes a little clearance but they got a bit bigger than i wanted, the laser cuts online no offset. i have not put pressure to it yet so im not sure if it will hold. we will see.

Seems to me that even if the holes were 5/8" or so, they would compress the rubber and hold pressure, no? Should I wait to see your results before we share the cad drawings? And thank you very much for offering. My buddy says to send the drawings over! I have seen him cut 1" plate, but the 3/8" sounds fine since I have no way of boring cylinders, hence no need for the heavy torque plate.

[Ronnieroadster]

A point of interest about the use of rubber sealing washers. I also have the Speedway pressure testing set with the supplied rubber/steel washers. Those washers have held up nicely after many years of use. Any idea of trying to test a block without sealing the bolt holes will result in huge amount of air leakage.

McMaster Carr sells the rubber/steel washers in my opinion its a good investment to use sealing washers so the time spent testing for leaks is not disrupted by so much air leaking out of lets see on a 24 bolt block I think its about 20 bolt holes.
Ronnireroadster

[GB SISSON]

Thanks Ronnie, I will get the washers.

[tetanus]

i don't see a need for rubber washers for the 59 block if studs are still in they should be sealed. the 8ba i think you will need them. I would start by cleaning decks and valve to bore areas and pan rails and go over them first by eye a lot of the cracks you can see by eyeball but not all. Then mag what's left and after that pressure test. i sent you a pm for your email to send files.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by tetanus

i don't see a need for rubber washers for the 59 block if studs are still in they should be sealed. the 8ba i think you will need them. I would start by cleaning decks and valve to bore areas and pan rails and go over them first by eye a lot of the cracks you can see by eyeball but not all. Then mag what's left and after that pressure test. i sent you a pm for your email to send files.

Tetanus:

Thanks for your posts and sharing your CAD file.

Personal preference, but I flip flop the last two steps. If you are able to pressure test at home it can help to minimize time, expense and hassle of getting it mag'd when it's no good.

If the block passes the eye and pressure test, it should be properly cleaned anyway so that is a job I like to sub out to a machine shop. The shake and bake blasting cleans blocks to like new condition.

I then have the shop mag it while there to save me an extra trip.

Unfortunately, I've gotten pretty good and spotting cracks by eye, but the mag test is cheap insurance and a necessary step after it's checked out and held some air pressure.

[tetanus]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Tetanus:

Thanks for your posts and sharing your CAD file.

Personal preference, but I flip flop the last two steps. If you are able to pressure test at home it can help to minimize time, expense and hassle of getting it mag'd when it's no good.

If the block passes the eye and pressure test, it should be properly cleaned anyway so that is a job I like to sub out to a machine shop. The shake and bake blasting cleans blocks to like new condition.

I then have the shop mag it while there to save me an extra trip.

Unfortunately, I've gotten pretty good and spotting cracks by eye, but the mag test is cheap insurance and a necessary step after it's checked out and held some air pressure.

you are right Tim on the order of checking but i have a mag tester i got a deal on. it takes way less time to mag it than pressure testing it.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by tetanus

you are right Tim on the order of checking but i have a mag tester i got a deal on. it takes way less time to mag it than pressure testing it.

Ah, great. May I ask, is the one Eastwood sells or something similar? If so, how do you like it?

I've toyed with getting an "at home" mag kit to help further "streamline" the good/bad process of block identification.

[tetanus]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Ah, great. May I ask, is the one Eastwood sells or something similar? If so, how do you like it?

I've toyed with getting an "at home" mag kit to help further "streamline" the good/bad process of block identification.

Its the magnaflux brand one like a horseshoe. got for $200 on ebay a while back. thing works great.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by tetanus

i don't see a need for rubber washers for the 59 block if studs are still in they should be sealed. the 8ba i think you will need them. I would start by cleaning decks and valve to bore areas and pan rails and go over them first by eye a lot of the cracks you can see by eyeball but not all. Then mag what's left and after that pressure test. i sent you a pm for your email to send files.

That's certainly correct if you leave the studs in the block there's no need for sealing washers. Any block without studs will need sealing washers of some type.
Ronnieroadster

[GB SISSON]

Haven't heard anything back from the guy who I sent the files to. Maybe I'm just not 'big time' enough for his operation.... Thinking seriously of using Mart's plywood idea. A neighbor told me tonight he has a bunch of scrap 3/4" 13 ply Baltic birch. I water tested some scraps of this material a few years back in my rain barrel. A whole Pacific NW winter and good as new. I think I'd laminate them with formica faces (why not?) and maybe epoxy the edges. Waterpump same. Heck, these things woulda been tested by now if I'd listened to Mart!
And...... Today I ordered 2 rolls of 18 gauge magnet wire and 2 bottles of yellow iron powder. I have been researching magnets for a week now and think I want a horseshoe shaped electromagnet about 6" centers on the poles. Many visions for the 'horseshoe' have been dancing in my head. Section of a crankshaft? Piece of 1" rod heated and bent? An old C clamp I found? Welded bar stock? Seems steel retains magnetism far more than Iron does. I also have some steering shaft that would be easy to wrap before assembly as the hollow nature gives me centers. Then two pieces of heavy bar stock drilled to accept the steering shaft. Ok, my brain is spinning now. How 'bout a 4" pipe nipple say 3/4" pipe and onto the bar stock I weld a 3/4" coupling cut in half for two female threads. That way I can wrap the wire with any Rube Goldberg setup and crank the thing into alignment with my big crescent and the vice. Ok one more thing before I retire for the night... Is it ok the core is hollow? If not, fill with what? Oh, and how many turns of wire? Youtube is very vague so far. I should have 200' of 18 gauge. Thanks and to all a good night.

[Kurt in NJ]

For many years I used a armature growler, made “powder” on the brake lathe , .002 cuts, or saver the fine cut from the cylinder boring bar —- works good enough, the growler would get warm after 30 minutes, homemade powder works as good as store bought,just not as easy to see as the dyed store bought,
I now have a real set, the magnet gets warm after 30 minutes steady use too, it does have a wider spread though.
Using alternating current won’t permanently magnetize the iron like direct current can.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Bruce, are you saying that wrapping the welding cable around the cast iron block then welding on something will temporarilly magnetize the block, thus aligning the powder with a crack???? Like the block becomes the magnet? Maybe you were kidding, or maybe I missunderstood or maybe you are serious. I really don't know much about electricity and magnetism and in general, things I cannot see.

I also made a blockoff plate for the early heads to test them as well, especially the stock aluminum heads. I use my early plates a customer of mine water jet cut for me from head gaskets on the bottom!!!! I am fixing to have him cut me a set of plates for the 59A next

[GB SISSON]

I finally got back to this. I got sidetracked with a couple of other projects and then some cabinet jobs with deadlines. Buddie still hasn't cut those block off plates. There is another shop here that has one, but leaning back to plywood. BUT I have had success with the magnet. I continued to research the subject, finding way more info on google instead of looking at youtube. Some things I found:
Seems like 1 ohm of resistance is what we want. There is a table with the resistance of different gauge of copper wire per 1000' of wire. I determined I needed about 120' of 18 gauge wire.
A core of permeable soft iron makes a far stronger magnet than using steel, such as a bolt. I bought a piece 1/2" x 6" on amazon. 99.9% pure iron.
The core is wrapped with a few layers of tape or paper before winding. My spool ends are 1/4" plywood.
I had bought 2 spools of the wire, one 100', other 200'. I weighed them both so I would know when I was at 120' on the longer spool.
I wrapped the completed windings with friction tape. Product of 'duck tape co.' found on amazon and very nice to work with, much stickier than the stuff I remember my dad using, but still has that good smell.
My drive system is a variable speed right angle screwdriver. Hose clamp placed around the trigger gave infinite speeds. Modified six point 9/16 socket (live center)pounded onto iron rod.
The 'legs' for the magnet became a problem. Rod measured .058 and no drill bit, so I filed down the threads in some 9/16 tall U bolt nuts and pounded them on half heartedly, so as not to harm the rod, but when grinding the 3/4" rod pieces flat on my 6x48 belt sander, one wasn't seated and ended up cocked and a bit loose. Really got me p-o'd, but I will fix that tomorrow with careful filing and then lock with set screws. Even at that, my new little magnet easily lifted this 59AB head. The photo was the hard part, holding it up with my right hand while feeling around for the 'shutter' button on my phone with my left was a beyotch.. OK, late here, I probably put the rest of you to sleep already.

[Mart]

Very impressive, especially the last pic.

[glennpm]

Great job!

[flatford8]

You never stop amazing me ‘Ol boy!........Mark

[GB SISSON]

A hearty 'thank-you' to a couple of guys from Downeast and one from 'Over there'. While waiting for the stove to warm up my wood shop, I snuck down and honed the threaded portion of those tall nuts so they would wiggle on fully and sit flush to my plywood spool ends. I then ground the feet back to flat. I'm thinking of welding some thick flat washers to the bottom of the 3/4" legs. As it is now, any tilt and it releases the load. Thinking this will give it a bigger footprint. After the legs are finalized with set screws I will true up the finished apparatus on the large belt sander. It needs to sit completely flat, AND It has to look right.

[GB SISSON]

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I spy a crack!

[B-O-B]

Following along on the magnet assy . I know I am too late, but a model T flywheel had some pretty good ones. Now the price on horseshoe magnets is going to go thru the roof

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by B-O-B

Following along on the magnet assy . I know I am too late, but a model T flywheel had some pretty good ones. Now the price on horseshoe magnets is going to go thru the roof

B-O-B , not sure what my post has to do with the price of magnets, but I'm now making a switch for mine and have uncovered a piece of countertop material known as 'richlite'. My piece is from a kitchen sink cutout and will make 2 of the head block off plates. It is about 1 1/4" thick and richlite is made from many layers of directionally stranded paper layed up with the strands in alternating layers, embedded in a waterproof resin, cured under heat and pressure. The material can be cut,drilled, tapped,routed etc with normal woodworking tools. and is very strong. An old head should make a good drill jig. Getting tired of waiting for the steel pieces and I like an adventure in tooling.

[Tim Ayers]

This post is great. I must have missed it, so you run electrical current through the magnet, correct? Did you just use alligator clips to an old battery? The switch you are talking about it is to turn the magnetic field on and off?

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

This post is great. I must have missed it, so you run electrical current through the magnet, correct? Did you just use alligator clips to an old battery? The switch you are talking about it is to turn the magnetic field on and off?

Yes on all points. Thinking the switch will be made from a piece of a hacksaw blade I can press down with my thumb to make contact. I use a 12V deep cycle battery I borrowed from my son's boat. He stores the boat here (I always have an extra battery for my tinkering.

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Yes on all points. Thinking the switch will be made from a piece of a hacksaw blade I can press down with my thumb to make contact. I use a 12V deep cycle battery I borrowed from my son's boat. He stores the boat here (I always have an extra battery for my tinkering.

Plus you keep it 100% charged for him at all times being the good guy that you are, correct? For the purpose of prolonging the battery life of course.

[B-O-B]

B-O-B , not sure what my post has to do with the price of magnets. GB you made a electric magnet & those ford horse shoe shaped magnets are good for that.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

Plus you keep it 100% charged for him at all times being the good guy that you are, correct? For the purpose of prolonging the battery life of course.

Fully charged, Duh!

And B O B, I had no idea that the T magnets were horseshoe shaped. My exhaustive research has shown me that U shaped magnets are way stronger. AND they come out for replacement. All that plus 59.95 for a recharged set of 16 magnets, well a 65.00 core charge too. Still cheap compared to me taking all that time away from my shop work. Kinda fun though!

[GB SISSON]

Here are some photos of today's work in the magnetism lab. I made a switch from a brass feeler gauge and used a cord from an old clothes iron. I am looking for ideas on how to introduce the powder onto the block. A salt shaker just dumps in one spot.
Then I got out my slab of richlite. It is very flat and looks like it should have a bunson burner mounted in it.... I did a test cut with my cordless skilsaw and it cut easily and made a nice smooth cut. I will do the actual cutting on my tablesaw. I found I had a 3 1/8" holesaw and for the valves a 1 3/4" seems right. I bought some drill bit$ at the hardware store and the 31/64" fits head holes with no wiggle. My plan is join the holesaw cuts with a jigsaw, then use my 'top bearing' router bit such that the bearing follows the steel fire ring in the head gasket and this should make the openings nice to look at. Planning to attempt all this tomorrow in the cabinet shop. Could go either way.....

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Your magnet looks like an antique you found. In Edison's lab. Definitely "period correct".

Looks like a great plan for the test plate. Looking forward to seeing you put it to work.

[cadillac512]

GB, our magnaflux set at work has a squeeze bulb with a screw-on lid that has small holes. You "puff" the powder onto the surface with it.



Terry

[GB SISSON]

Thanks Scotty and Terry. Progress is being made. I'll be back at it after lunch.

[GB SISSON]

Did a strength test on a 1" wide strip of this richlite stuff, then I ordered a bag of 50 stainless and epdm bonded washers today on ebay. Too bad Speedway is back ordered on their kits. This is a LOT of work.....

[cadillac512]

It may be a lot of work but you're doing a beautiful job. Well done!

[Tim Ayers]

Can you “borrow” one of your wife’s make-up brushes to dab the powder in place?

[Kurt in NJ]

For many years i used a armature growler for the magnet, it works on alternating current so it won’t transfer permanent magnetism to the metal being tested.
for magnetic particles i saved the cuttings from the fine cuts on the brake lathe.
For removing magnetism I have used a loop of wire in a heavy weller soldering gun, and a old television degaussing ring.

[flatford8]

That’s a work of ahat right there mistah ..........Mark

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Dang that came out NICE!

[GB SISSON]

Once more, thanks for the kind words. The cylinder head hanging from a 1x1 stick of this richlite gave me confidence that this is really strong material. I will make a pump blockoff plate next and for gaskets I know I have plenty of epdm rubber sheeting left over from the woodie's roof (if I can find it).

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Once more, thanks for the kind words. The cylinder head hanging from a 1x1 stick of this richlite gave me confidence that this is really strong material. I will make a pump blockoff plate next and for gaskets I know I have plenty of epdm rubber sheeting left over from the woodie's roof (if I can find it).

[GB SISSON]

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PETE!!! You are a sight for sore eyes! Literally. I have been hoping you would show up. This must be what cataract surgery is like, or maybe the guy that first made a pair of eye glasses.

[GB SISSON]

When I first came to Orcas Island in '78 there were a couple of batchelor brothers in their 60's who ran a sawmill about a mile from here. Over the next ten years they milled all the wood for my house and both shops. If I showed up anywhere near 10 am, it was coffee break time and up to the house we'd go. In the house was a column of 4 televisions with an old wood cabinet model with a round screen at the bottom. It was a miniature TV museum. Looking at Pete's enlargement I can see that on my shop's workbench the two bottom layers are the two sheets of particle board I installed when I built my woodshop. Followed by many years of 1/4" stacked upon each other. The last one is only about a year old. 3/4 MDO sign painter's plywood, the good stuff. Here I thought I was getting shorter, but the bench has just been getting taller.

[tetanus]

GB looks real good what you got going on! Well I figured I should update my stuff here. So I had my plates on and soaked vinegar in block for a week and had a space heater in valley for about 6 hrs a day to get vinegar to clean better maybe. Block got so hot I couldn’t hold my Hand on it. We’ll the vinegar didn’t do much but it’s better. So I figured I would test it hot also. I had it still filled with the vinegar I figured I would be able to see it coming out of ex ports or wherever else. Also it’s a lot safer than having air in it if it decided to blow up. I only went to around 40 pounds. Didn’t have the nuts to see if side of block would blow out since there is a lot of square inches of surface with nothing holding it. Well no leaks anywhere on deck or from studs or cracks. I used a gas pipe tester you can find at any hardware store Has a valve stem to pump up on it. I also was wondering if a guy could use some kind of old transformer somehow for the mag tester.

[GB SISSON]

Now that's a really nice setup you have there! Like that lifting plate too. I hope I can produce the kind of results you have when I finish my kit. For your magnet, youtube shows a lot of powerful electromagnets made using a transformer from a microwave oven. I just didn't know how to make one of those transformers into a horseshoe configuration. I have seen special calibrated 10 lb steel bars used to test electromagnets for the magnaflux process. Mine easily lifts a cylinder head, so I guess it passes. If you want I can look up the materials I used to build mine. Right now I'm half way through with building 91 cabinet doors, many different sizes, and I have a week left to be on schedule. Yikes that's 455 individual pieces, so my test kit is on hold for a bit.

[CA Victoria]

What thickness of T6061 aluminum plate would be suitable to make a plate from?

[GB SISSON]

Tim, I have no knowledge of aluminum. Hoping someone here does.

I am finally able to get back to these blocks. Today in looking at the water pump area I noticed that the 8ba blocks have a hole up high so I'm glad I saw that. Looks like a plate made for the 8ba should work on the early 24 studders. I will need to thread a schrader valve from either direction as required. Not sure the threads will hold up in the richlite so thinking a brass coupling epoxied in should solve that.
I have cleaned up the side shop where my blocks and engine tools are stored and even better yet, added a wood stove and insulated ceiling so I can do this work in comfort. In response to the urging of my buddy Skip (cas3 here), I started stuffing some of the easily accessed stud wall bays with the leftover ceiling insulation. A neighbor came by and offered 4 sheets of 1" foil faced foam board that would go a long ways in the 2x6 walls where I store junk on shelves. All in all, I'm glad I waited until I have heat and a nice new workbench and good lighting. I look forward to getting started on a good looking .030 over 8ba block and seeing how my new apparatus performs. Stay tuned.

[GB SISSON]

The first block is checking out well so far. I had to plug that coolant hole in the front of the deck that's half exposed because I built for a 59ab style. Live and learn, but I thought I had that covered. Next the water pump plate does not seal completely. Nonetheless, I was pleased that no bubbles at all were present on or around the stitch and sleeve job on #2 with 30 psi air. Is it best to fill with soapy water and then pressurize with air? Also, I can see that a tee with a gauge would be a big improvement as well.

[cas3]

A warm shop is a wonderful thing. Next, with an insulated shop you may have the urge for a cheap garage sale AC unit to fully live the life of an affluent american! all kidding aside, I believe 30 psi is excessive, perhaps just watching to see how long it will hold 5 psi without leaking, then if it fails try to find the leak. This is how the plumbers would do it when I was on job sites. Pressure it up, and check again the next day. If its leaking, find the source. Carry on

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

The first block is checking out well so far. I had to plug that coolant hole in the front of the deck that's half exposed because I built for a 59ab style. Live and learn, but I thought I had that covered. Next the water pump plate does not seal completely. Nonetheless, I was pleased that no bubbles at all were present on or around the stitch and sleeve job on #2 with 30 psi air. Is it best to fill with soapy water and then pressurize with air? Also, I can see that a tee with a gauge would be a big improvement as well.

[GB SISSON]

Thanks Skip and Pete. I enjoy learning new things and now it's time to acquire the skills to properly use this equipment. I will need to work on my pump cover plate, then ad the tee for gauge, then do another test with lower pressure and a better seal. I'm just glad that this older crack repair shows no suds.

[Mart]

Looks great, GB. I've never pressure tested, but will offer my thoughts. the extra port at the front is not open to the water jacket as such, it is just a right angle passage that exits in that extra port above the water pump. So it shouldn't leak unless the pump blockoff is allowing pressure into it. I thought the idea was to pressurise with air and then spray soapy water over everything. Bubbles will form where there is a leak.
I like what you have done, though, it looks great and finding no leaks where the stitch repair is is very good to know.