Marvel Mystery Oil dispensor

[wingski]

Hey guys, I have a Marvel Mystery Oil glass dispensor mounted on the firewall of my ’29 cabriolet. It has a copper line connected to the intake manifold. There is a shut-off valve on the MMO disensor. Does that vavle need to be closed when the engine is not runnining? Also, I still haven’t figured out how much the ON/OFF valve should be turned On when the engine is running. Does it really make a difference how much the velve is turned ON or will too much MMO get into the intake manifold if that knob is turned all the way ON?

I haven’t been able to test drive the A for any distance because of other problems, but I’d like to know how much to open that valve when I do.

Mike

[3.6rs]

Picture of that ?

[1930-Pickup]

The upper level of the MMO in the reservoir should be lower than the connection at the intake manifold. This will keep the MMO from flowing unregulated into the motor.

The open/close valve should be normally open, but there should be another metering valve also. An open/close valve may not be sensitive enough to use as a metering valve (maybe?).

The amount of MMO regulated feed will need to be determined empirically by you once you start driving it more.

[Simonpie]

It has been a long time since I had one. Mine had a little glass window. It was kind of like the drip tube on a medical IV. The instructions had you hold the engine at a certain rpm, and check how many seconds per drop, then adjust the valve to get what they recommended. The final adjustment is after you've run it a bit and you can get an "ounces per mile" measurement. It shouldn't run any when the engine is off. It runs off vacuum and they can be placed both above or below the engine.

If yours doesn't have a drip window, I don't know what you do.

[Crankster]

If you dig around the internet I can almost guarantee someone has scanned the operating instructions. I ordered an Ampco unit recently and in digging around found lots of info on the Marvel and other similar units, Allstate made one, and others I'm sure.

It works similar to a mixture screw.

[wingski]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

OK, here are pictures of the dispensor or whatever you want to call it. I didn’t realize it was made by AMCO until I took the pictures. This thing definetly sits above the intake manifold so I’m worried about gravity feed through the copper line. However, I don’t want to have to turn the thing on and off all the time. I have enough trouble remembering to shut off the gas.

Mike

[1931 flamingo]

The copper output line is at the top of the dispenser and the pickup is at the bottom, NOT going to run out. With engine running the vacuum will suck it out. JMO
Paul in CT

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

The copper output line is at the top of the dispenser and the pickup is at the bottom, NOT going to run out. With engine running the vacuum will suck it out. JMO
Paul in CT

as long as you mount it below the vac port... otherwise the first start of the engine will create a siphon effect if the jar is above the vac port on the intake...if the jar is below then yes - the engine running will suck it up like a straw and once the engine stops it returns to the jar.

[Simonpie]

I believe the glass cylinder on the top is where you can watch the flow rate. I think mine was vertical, but same idea.

[Russ/40]

Adjust it relative to your fuel consumption. It's been a long time since I had mine, but if I remember, it took 2 or 3 tankfulls of gas to empty the jar. You don't need much.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

as long as you mount it below the vac port... otherwise the first start of the engine will create a siphon effect if the jar is above the vac port on the intake...if the jar is below then yes - the engine running will suck it up like a straw and once the engine stops it returns to the jar.

I believe there is an air gap in the control valve/sight glass that prevents siphoning.There is no mention of placement of jar in instructions. http://ampcolubes.com/products

[3.6rs]

Originally Posted by wingski

OK, here are pictures of the dispensor or whatever you want to call it. I didn’t realize it was made by AMCO until I took the pictures. ...

Mike

You see that pictures often say more the words...

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

For those that can still HEAR, remember the Octa-Gane water injector that injected a "mist" to prevent PINGING???
Some Folks used them for SNAKE-OIL, to prevent STICKIN' VALVES.
Bill OLD

[Crankster]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

Adjust it relative to your fuel consumption. It's been a long time since I had mine, but if I remember, it took 2 or 3 tankfulls of gas to empty the jar. You don't need much.

Ampco actually advertised "up to 2000 miles" per quart, e.g. before the reservoir needs refilling. I think a lot of people might have it set too high.

You can install it wherever you want, it uses engine manifold vacuum to make a vapor.

I received this same unit in the pic yesterday, it was a bit of a pain to install because injector plates are no longer available for some engines. It can be plumbed into the intake manifold, but not all cylinders will receive the same mix. So I modified an EGR spacer and tapped it with NPT thread.

The instruction sheet says (engine idle warm) "From finger tight closed position, open oil control valve 1/2 to 3/4 turn to left and continue engine idle. Continue few minutes. Reduce oil flow and set Oil Control Valve at 1/4 turn from closed position. Observe oil flow which should be steady but not heavy."

If you want to turn the unit off, just close the oil control valve all the way. It can be left on so long as there is oil in the reservoir.

[sphanna]

I guess I have too much time on my hands, but seems to me that would also work as a water injector.

[MikeK]

There is a HUGE DIFFERENCE in operation between the Original patented Marvel INVERSE oilers and the Ampco and other simple knockoffs that feed oil DIRECTLY proportional to engine vacuum. People often confuse the two as similar in function.

An inverse oiler (Only Marvel oilers) feed less oil when the manifold vacuum is high (cruising, idling) and more when the vacuum is less (accelerating, going uphill, etc.)

Ampco and the other wannabies are simple suction devices. At high engine load (low vacc) they feed nothing. At high vacc idle and cruising they feed the maximum.

I have several Marvel oilers (I collect them) and would only run an inverse oiler, never a direct proportional one like the Ampco's. If you are using it on an industrial engine with constant speed and load you may want the Ampco, but those, unlike the Marvel inverse oliers, must be mounted lower than the engine vacc connection.

Marvels were required original equipment with Judson supercharger kits in the 70's or no warranty on the rotor and housing. They were also popular on gasoline engine trucks. Ampcos were often added to industrial stationary engines.


The Original Inverse Oiler Patent.
Notice it was issued to Paxton, not "Marvel"


Now, this just begs the question: Why bother, just mix the stuff in your gas. That all comes down to droplet size and what happens to the stuff. In either case some of it will be burned as vaporized fuel and some deposited on valve stems and cylinder walls. Atomizing it through a carb will create extremely small droplets as the fuel vaporizes and leaves the MMO behind. When mixed in the gas you will get more burn and less product delivery to metal surfaces than with the coarser spattering that a direct droplet feed will provide.


40 years ago I built and ran quite a few SBC race engines, both strip and circle for myself and others. They all had the metal can (unbreakable) MMO inverse feeders. Never seized an exhaust stem or ripped up a cylinder. More than I could say for the competition. Since it was mostly low vac. & W.O.T. the inverse oiler worked best. An Ampco would not. However, for lots of idling and easy high-vac street driving with little or no W.O.T. the Ampco (which I do NOT collect) would probably deliver a better feed rate profile. So I guess you could say I like the overall concept of both of them.

Yes, the directions for the Marvel oilers, both initial setup and rebuilding, are online if you search.

[1931 flamingo]

I was reading about the same subject on another forum and thought I remembered "water injection" from the 60's. Probably same setup as I remember seeing the glass jar.
Paul in CT

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Someone mentioned STATIONARY Engines.
Waaaay back in the late '50s & '60s, OHV Engines were used WIDELY, on Irrigation Pumps, standing UP, on their back ends!!!--Never learned HOW they were set up, to run that way????---Must have been an EXPENSIVE Conversion.
Bill W.

[MikeK]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Someone mentioned STATIONARY Engines.
Waaaay back in the late '50s & '60s, OHV Engines were used WIDELY, on Irrigation Pumps, standing UP, on their back ends!!!--Never learned HOW they were set up, to run that way????---Must have been an EXPENSIVE Conversion.
Bill W.

Just put a black hole next to it. The oil will then go sideways into the pan. Don't get too close.

[katy]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Someone mentioned STATIONARY Engines.
Waaaay back in the late '50s & '60s, OHV Engines were used WIDELY, on Irrigation Pumps, standing UP, on their back ends!!!--Never learned HOW they were set up, to run that way????---Must have been an EXPENSIVE Conversion.
Bill W.

They must have been "dry sump" engines