50 Coupe OEM Ammeter Question

[leon bee]

Got my car running really well, all new inside 8BA. Now I've been getting other things working, one piece at a time. Tomorrow the ammeter! Stuck my head under there, don't know why I never noticed this before, this gauge doesn't have terminal posts. Big fat, (old and frayed) wire loops around and through this little hoop deal. I'm not putting power to any of this old wire, will replace it all.

So this worked like one of those clip around the wire style modern testers? I've never had a car with one of these, and searching old posts didn't help.

So here's my question: when I run modern Belden wire through there, should that work? Seems like it will be better insulated than that old cloth covered stuff. I'll find out tomorrow if the needle moves at all, but this thing has me really curious. Thanks, guys!

[petehoovie]

[QUOTE=leon bee;1643489] So here's my question: when I run modern Belden wire through there, should that work?


Yes, it should work just like the original wire. I'm not sure it will work if the Belden wire you are going to use is shielded though. Also, the gauge is polarity sensitive and therefore the new wire has to be run through the inductive pickup loop on the gauge correctly in the direction of current flow. You might have to experiment in which direction to correctly feed the wire through the loop....

[leon bee]

Thanks Pete, that was quick. I just said Belden cause I'm trying to use good stuff. Just regular auto wire from NAPA.

[rotorwrench]

Induction should work through any form of soft insulation. Shielded wire is generally only available from aircraft wire sources and it may not be so good for induction meter indications.

[4t8v8]

As I recall that wire is the charging wire from the generator. Be sure and run big enough wire. Any non shielded wire will work.

[grumppyoldman]

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Just got through the same situation, my wire is in good shape. It has been replaced some time ago. If your battery is fully charged don't expect to see a big movement on the amp. gauge.Mine just barely moved when turning on head lights, left the head lights on for an hour, the only thing I could see was the voltage in the battery dropped from 6.5 v. to 6.1 volts. Drove a couple of miles and volts in battery read 6.3 v. hope this helps. The wire through the loop on the amp. meter is very large, don't know what size wire would give the correct reading. Mine runs from the voltage controller under dash to
starter solanoid on positive side. Al

[JSeery]

The wire through the ammeter should be the wire from the battery side of the starter solenoid to the circuit breaker panel, not the generator wire. You are looking at the current flow to and from the battery.

[leon bee]

Yeah, that's what it looked like to me- from solenoid to the little fuse panel. I was going to use 10 gauge on that. I'm staying 6 volts.

[5851a]

Believe they used that same system on various models up until early 65. Had it on 64 merc and worked fine.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by leon bee

Yeah, that's what it looked like to me- from solenoid to the little fuse panel. I was going to use 10 gauge on that. I'm staying 6 volts.

That wire carried ALL of the current from the battery to the other electrical circuits so be sure it matches the current draw of the vehicle (stock vs addition equipment added). And keep in mind that 6v is double the current of 12v.

[cmbrucew]

Leon
10 Guage is perfect, yellow if you have it.
Bruce

[leon bee]

On the way to the store now, I'll look for yellow. You don't think I should wire the entire car with black? Just kidding.