The Ford Barn

big job · 05-11-2018, 07:48 AM

I really hate to beat this subject to death, and I do not believe in gremlins or
maybe I should. Finally installed a complete fresh 59A in my personal car.
Engine is original as everything else. Problem is that I had to use cardboard
in front of radiator to even get near normal. Now with a brand /new nothing
spared engine, it goes to 200 degrees within a mile. Not timing, not slippin
belts, not dragging brakes, not rat nests. Engine instantly starts, car goes
like a Corvette I had; I had - a 63 split window Id be rich now. Also the
block water internals are pure cast absolutely no rust, new improved water
pumps. Even a 200* I have 60lb oil press with original oil pump and at that
temp the crankcase is cool to the touch. It has new 50/50 antifreeze. As of
now engine has 4 miles running time. Whats next radiator cleaner and back
flush. Also it does not burb coolant out and Im using infared, thermometer and
dash gage all say 198- 200 degrees. I know about breaking it in but hard to
do with 2 million idiots in front, going 30 mph. any thoughts ? sam

edhd58 · 05-11-2018, 08:08 AM

Just asking, what if any thermostat. let it cool and check flow in radiator?

revkev6 · 05-11-2018, 08:09 AM

Does it go over 200? What thermostats? Mine are 195 in my 8ba and that's where it runs...

revkev6 · 05-11-2018, 08:11 AM

Oh and what distributor, saying it's not timing doesn't mean too much

rotorwrench · 05-11-2018, 08:20 AM

You mention it's not timing. I'd still make certain that the mechanical advance unit is functioning properly. A head gasket might not be sealing as well as it should. If it was set up for higher compression, it may run warmer than it did with stock compression levels but it shouldn't overheat. Watch your coolant. If you are losing any or the pressure is building too much due to compression leak, it should become evident. If the radiator has been in service a long time, it might be time to get it rodded out to make certain there is no blockage.

An old timer I used to work with had an interesting outlook on engine operating characteristics. If you told him the coolant temp was too high, he'd ask if the indicator was on the red line. If not, he would tell folks to come back when it was. I agree though that if anything much over the thermostat control temp is indicated on the temp gauge, there is something wrong going on. It could even be a small undetected crack in the block somewhere but the coolant level will eventually drop if it is. You can live with little stuff but only until it becomes a problem.

19Fordy · 05-11-2018, 08:26 AM

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My thinking is that the engine is still "tight". Drive it 500 miles and see if it improves.

flatjack9 · 05-11-2018, 09:38 AM

Has the distributor been bench tested to assure the advance mechanism is working? Also if it does not burp water out, I would not be worried. Run it, 200 is not going to hurt anything.

BUBBAS IGNITION · 05-11-2018, 09:41 AM

I agree with the others on timing......

Timing is ???
Advance at 2000 rpm is ????
What ignition are you using???

Retarded timing is the largest cause of flathead overheating......

Seth Swoboda · 05-11-2018, 09:42 AM

Big Job,

I had a similar problem with a 59A engine in a '47 tudor. I rebuilt the engine and believe me it was all done correctly and with out any corners cut. The only thing left I had not touched was the radiator. I took it to a radiator shop and they cleaned and flushed it for a week. Everyday they boil it and flush it until it flow tested really well. My problem so far has been solved. This was last summer. I would have the radiator cleaned thoroughly if I were you. It won't hurt anything to do this.

The radiator shop told me anytime I drain a radiator like that down and have it out for an extended period of time to have it cleaned.

tubman · 05-11-2018, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

My thinking is that the engine is still "tight". Drive it 500 miles and see if it improves.

This. When I did the engine in my Corvette about 10 years ago, it would run very hot. You couldn't let it sit and idle for over 5 minutes and it would boil. I was really worried and decided I had "to do something". It was also a fresh '67 coupe, so I couldn't resist driving it, just a little. After about 800 miles, everything was normal, and still is.

4t8v8 · 05-11-2018, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubman

This. When I did the engine in my Corvette about 10 years ago, it would run very hot. You couldn't let it sit and idle for over 5 minutes and it would boil. I was really worried and decided I had "to do something". It was also a fresh '67 coupe, so I couldn't resist driving it, just a little. After about 800 miles, everything was normal, and still is.

Same here. When I rebuilt a 302 Ford and installed it in my Bronco II I had the same problem. In a little over 500 miles it settled down to normal. Eight years and still going strong.

Ggmac · 05-11-2018, 01:54 PM

Did you use the same temp measuring tools on the old engine ? Just trying to compare apples to apples .

big job · 05-12-2018, 04:29 AM

Thanks for the support guys. My problem is converting the brain to typing lol....So as
a recap. This is a daily driver. Everything the same far as ignition (46 V cap), radiator
as was and never ran over 180* on the hottest days. This was all because it had a terrible
piston slap (somebody went into #6 with a die grinder) bought the car that way. So
cylinders cleaned up at .030 then honed to new piston specs. Crank was perfect new
nos. cam ,bearings, rods mains balanced crank, flywheel , new pressure plate was off
a good 20 grams (welded a weight on that). Filled block with water on test stand.
exhaust and muffler - fired up half turn instant 60lb oil pressure did all this so it will be
plug & play when installed. Now installed runs smoth as silk. I was thinking just maybe
the new water pumps are junk there was no problem with the pumps that were on there? Poured Napa coolant flush yesterday ran it and ran out of time. See whats up
today. Maybe my 1940's back flush, it connects to a water hose and shop air. what you
do is get water flowing hit the air button and gives a blast you only need bout 5psi air.
Seen my father do countless flushings. Remembering Ford V8s he removed thermostats
took top hose off radiator stuck the tool in the head hose and let it rip All kinds of junk
would burp out of the radiator cap. Guess thats Sundays next plan or cover the temp
gage with masking tape lol & keep taking short rides round the block. forgot to say to
rubber cap the radiator inlets or have a filthy engine compartment........

05-11-2018, 07:48 AM	#1
big job Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Dighton, Mass Posts: 1,230	200 degrees in one mile ? I really hate to beat this subject to death, and I do not believe in gremlins or maybe I should. Finally installed a complete fresh 59A in my personal car. Engine is original as everything else. Problem is that I had to use cardboard in front of radiator to even get near normal. Now with a brand /new nothing spared engine, it goes to 200 degrees within a mile. Not timing, not slippin belts, not dragging brakes, not rat nests. Engine instantly starts, car goes like a Corvette I had; I had - a 63 split window Id be rich now. Also the block water internals are pure cast absolutely no rust, new improved water pumps. Even a 200* I have 60lb oil press with original oil pump and at that temp the crankcase is cool to the touch. It has new 50/50 antifreeze. As of now engine has 4 miles running time. Whats next radiator cleaner and back flush. Also it does not burb coolant out and Im using infared, thermometer and dash gage all say 198- 200 degrees. I know about breaking it in but hard to do with 2 million idiots in front, going 30 mph. any thoughts ? sam

05-11-2018, 08:08 AM	#2
edhd58 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Guston,ky Posts: 653	Re: 200 degrees in one mile ? Just asking, what if any thermostat. let it cool and check flow in radiator?

05-11-2018, 08:09 AM	#3
revkev6 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: western Mass Posts: 365	Re: 200 degrees in one mile ? Does it go over 200? What thermostats? Mine are 195 in my 8ba and that's where it runs...

05-11-2018, 08:11 AM	#4
revkev6 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: western Mass Posts: 365	Re: 200 degrees in one mile ? Oh and what distributor, saying it's not timing doesn't mean too much

05-11-2018, 08:20 AM	#5
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,436	Re: 200 degrees in one mile ? You mention it's not timing. I'd still make certain that the mechanical advance unit is functioning properly. A head gasket might not be sealing as well as it should. If it was set up for higher compression, it may run warmer than it did with stock compression levels but it shouldn't overheat. Watch your coolant. If you are losing any or the pressure is building too much due to compression leak, it should become evident. If the radiator has been in service a long time, it might be time to get it rodded out to make certain there is no blockage. An old timer I used to work with had an interesting outlook on engine operating characteristics. If you told him the coolant temp was too high, he'd ask if the indicator was on the red line. If not, he would tell folks to come back when it was. I agree though that if anything much over the thermostat control temp is indicated on the temp gauge, there is something wrong going on. It could even be a small undetected crack in the block somewhere but the coolant level will eventually drop if it is. You can live with little stuff but only until it becomes a problem.

05-11-2018, 08:26 AM	#6
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,948	Re: 200 degrees in one mile ? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) My thinking is that the engine is still "tight". Drive it 500 miles and see if it improves.

05-11-2018, 09:38 AM	#7
flatjack9 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oshkosh, Wi Posts: 4,527	Re: 200 degrees in one mile ? Has the distributor been bench tested to assure the advance mechanism is working? Also if it does not burp water out, I would not be worried. Run it, 200 is not going to hurt anything.

05-11-2018, 09:41 AM	#8
BUBBAS IGNITION Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: SPEEDWAY INDIANA Posts: 4,148	Re: 200 degrees in one mile ? I agree with the others on timing...... Timing is ??? Advance at 2000 rpm is ???? What ignition are you using??? Retarded timing is the largest cause of flathead overheating...... __________________ If it Makes Spark, we do it !!!! www.bubbasignition.com [email protected]

05-11-2018, 09:42 AM	#9
Seth Swoboda Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 3,795	Re: 200 degrees in one mile ? Big Job, I had a similar problem with a 59A engine in a '47 tudor. I rebuilt the engine and believe me it was all done correctly and with out any corners cut. The only thing left I had not touched was the radiator. I took it to a radiator shop and they cleaned and flushed it for a week. Everyday they boil it and flush it until it flow tested really well. My problem so far has been solved. This was last summer. I would have the radiator cleaned thoroughly if I were you. It won't hurt anything to do this. The radiator shop told me anytime I drain a radiator like that down and have it out for an extended period of time to have it cleaned.

05-11-2018, 01:54 PM	#12
Ggmac Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Lake worth Florida Posts: 1,100	Re: 200 degrees in one mile ? Did you use the same temp measuring tools on the old engine ? Just trying to compare apples to apples .

05-12-2018, 04:29 AM	#13
big job Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Dighton, Mass Posts: 1,230	Re: 200 degrees in one mile ? Thanks for the support guys. My problem is converting the brain to typing lol....So as a recap. This is a daily driver. Everything the same far as ignition (46 V cap), radiator as was and never ran over 180* on the hottest days. This was all because it had a terrible piston slap (somebody went into #6 with a die grinder) bought the car that way. So cylinders cleaned up at .030 then honed to new piston specs. Crank was perfect new nos. cam ,bearings, rods mains balanced crank, flywheel , new pressure plate was off a good 20 grams (welded a weight on that). Filled block with water on test stand. exhaust and muffler - fired up half turn instant 60lb oil pressure did all this so it will be plug & play when installed. Now installed runs smoth as silk. I was thinking just maybe the new water pumps are junk there was no problem with the pumps that were on there? Poured Napa coolant flush yesterday ran it and ran out of time. See whats up today. Maybe my 1940's back flush, it connects to a water hose and shop air. what you do is get water flowing hit the air button and gives a blast you only need bout 5psi air. Seen my father do countless flushings. Remembering Ford V8s he removed thermostats took top hose off radiator stuck the tool in the head hose and let it rip All kinds of junk would burp out of the radiator cap. Guess thats Sundays next plan or cover the temp gage with masking tape lol & keep taking short rides round the block. forgot to say to rubber cap the radiator inlets or have a filthy engine compartment........