12V conversion, headlights, taillights, starter

[MattA]

Starting some initial research. Is there any consensus on these items?


1) 6 volt starter seems anemic. Would a 12v starter spool up better?
2) best value solution for modern power headlights?
3) LED powered taillights?


4) anything else I should be looking at or asking questions about?

[jrelliott]

Have a list of all thing required for 12V conversion. Suggest you go to modern bendix on starter. 12 Volt 32/50 bulbs work good if reflectors are great and drive reasonably at night. There are some 12V adjustable LED headlights from Snyders and possibly Brattons.
If you would like all the electrical information I have collected send me an email at [email protected]. You do not have to get an alternator, as standard generator with a 12Volt battery will work. If you want to change to 12V negative ground will have to repolarize the generator, switch wires on the amp meter, and new 12V coil connected to proper polarity

[oldbird55]

Do it u will like it

[Tom Endy]

You will need to rewire the ahooguh horn for 12-volts. Here is how to do it, an easy task. The dropping resister the suppliers sell will burn out with repeated use of the horn.

http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-conte...orn-to-12v.pdf

Tom Endy

[Badpuppy]

Probably easier to determine the starter problem than convert to 12V. A lot of trouble for little gain. A high resistance return path could cause that symptom. Add a ground wire between battery post and bell housing or at least clean the connection to the frame.

As for lighting, use LED all around, easier on the generator. Headlights are the biggest power hog, the LEDs are worth the price, imo.

[rotorwrench]

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I won't go 12-volt till availability of batteries for 6-volt systems are completely discontinued. It works for me but then I can successfully repair any items that need work without help from outside sources. My Ford 850 tractor was converted but it only has starting, charging, and Ignition systems and they work fine on 12-volts. I may put lights back on it someday but I don't use it at night.

Low voltage like 6-volt, require as low a resistance as is practicable in the systems wiring and ground plane. After 90 years plus, the wiring has to be maintained to OEM specs but more importantly, the ground plane also has to be maintained. If resistance rises anywhere then the lower voltage system will suffer.

[nkaminar]

If you go to 12 volts, rewire the starter. The field windings should be converted from 2 parallel, 2 series to all 4 in series. The trigger type soldering irons are best. You can buy field coils that are already connected in parallel, called 12 volt field coils.

[David in San Antonio]

As with many Model A topics there are a range of opinions on the 6 vs 12 volt question.
Here’s how one newbie sees it: If there’s a fault in the 6 volt starter system and rather than fixing it I switch to a brand new 12 volt system with a new battery, fresh wires and a clear ground path, of course it will work better - but not because it’s 12 vs 6 volts. The 6 volt system works perfectly when maintained. If I do choose to switch to 12 volts I’ll want to do my research on the starter. I’ve read here that shoving twice the voltage through the original unit will certainly “pep it up” but also can throw the bendix gear into the flywheel hard enough to eventually damage it. As mentioned above, the horn will need attention, too. I’m not sure about the coil, the rest of the ignition system, and the ammeter.
Switching to a 12 volt negative ground system does allow you to wire in modern accessories. Some people here download apps to their phone and charge the phone right off the regular 6 volt system, no converter needed. This approach appeals to me for its simplicity but if you’re going to add air conditioning it requires 12 volts and there’s no app for A/C.

I am a big fan of LED lights. The difference in visibility and ability to be seen is enormous. Specifically, the focused LED headlights (not LED bulbs instead of incandescent ones) and LED panel (not bulbs) in the taillights. This is one example of technological progress that really is superior to the original Model A design. A side benefit is that they draw very little current, adding virtually no strain on the battery and generator. The ammeter barely moves when I switch on the lights. They are available for both 6 and 12 volt setups.

[Jim Brierley]

Controversy, YES! I have run 12v. since 1958, and love it. I run modified engines, with higher compression, so feel it necessary. I run a totally stock starter, and the only problem I ever had was self inflicted. I run sealed beams, and am not a fan of LED, although many like them. It's your car, do as you like.

[JayJay]

I have 6V in my current driver car (the '31) and will leave it as I will sell it when I get done with the restoration of the '30. I will convert that to 12V as I'm building a touring car, and I've heard horror stories from folks in my club about trying to buy 6V batteries/generators/bulbs on the road. Easiest to just convert from the start.

[Banditorama]

Originally Posted by Badpuppy

Probably easier to determine the starter problem than convert to 12V. A lot of trouble for little gain. A high resistance return path could cause that symptom. Add a ground wire between battery post and bell housing or at least clean the connection to the frame.

As for lighting, use LED all around, easier on the generator. Headlights are the biggest power hog, the LEDs are worth the price, imo.

Yup, I agree with this^

I've never had any issues with the starter. Honestly, this car starts faster than any modern car I've ever owned. On a warm engine you just tap the button and it fires right up. Even completely cold, it only takes 2 or 3 revolutions before it's going.

Something ain't right with your car. Going 12v probably isn't gonna fix it

[Kurt in NJ]

The last 12V conversion I did was with a saws all—- cut the xtra 6 v off a 12 volt battery.
I have been accused of having a 12 volt battery because of the fast cranking .
I use halogen bulbs in otherwise stock headlights, the generator has no trouble keeping the battery charged , not worried about it being set at 14 amps
Spent a lot of thought on the ground path 50 years ago,tinned the frame where the ground strap bolted on, used new lock washers,kept the paint thin around bolt holes,clean threads
Proper restoration eliminates the need for most modifications

[Bill G]

I stayed with 6 volt. No regrets.

[nkaminar]

One advantage of LED's that is often overlooked is that they last a lot longer. With LED's in my car I don't have to worry about burning out a bulb.

[Bob Bidonde]

I have 12V systems in both of my Model A's and both have stock starters. There is no need to change anything inside of the starters. However, change the stock Bendix starter drive for a modern USA made starter drive.
To accommodate modern electronics, go with a negative ground. Also, use the 6V battery cables because they are a larger gauge than 12V cables.

[MAG]

There have been several posts stating that when converting to 12 volts there is no need to do anything to the starter or change it to 12 volts. That is absolutely true UNTIL you discover that the starter ring has been pushed off the flywheel by the thrust of the starter drive.

[CarlG]

Problem solved - - just go with the gear reduction 12v starter and be done with it.

[nkaminar]

As I stated in Post #7, re wire the field windings or buy 12 volt field windings. See https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...htm?pid=976153. The link includes instructions.

[Bob Bidonde]

I have been running the stock starters on 12V for many years and I see no unusual degradation of the flywheel ring gears. Moreover, I run hi-compression heads which increases the torque the starter motor must produce.

[woofa.express]

I converted to 12V. Initially not my starter motor and but the awful clash of engagement made me nervous so I converted that too. I am now sorry I didn’t convert to the new 12v starting system that engages prior to rotation. They are beautiful.