Selection of Oil

[Cape Codder]

I know, I know another OIL THREAD although I think slightly different.

I am presently using Rotello SAE 15W40 in my motor. I have been using it since day one after having the motor rebuilt changing it every 1000 miles AFTER the break in period. I have 9300 miles on the rebuilt motor now and have been thinking of changing to a Synthetic Oil of equal viscosity.

I was thinking using the Synthetic like 4 to 5 thousand miles.

1. Would this be way beyond the milage for oil in an A even though modern cars use it and have 10 thousand mile intervals?
2. Would it be TOO SLICK to run in the A?
3. Sure would help not having to crawl under the car so often.

[NCRebel]

I changed to synthetic oil in my motorcycles after reading the history of oil developments in pre 1940's Europe. However, the environment I live in has hot to mild temps year round, humidity and lower elevations. A thicker oil doesn't change viscosity here (I use a 30 weight).

Heat to cold (seasonal weather) conditions thin or thicken fluids, internal engine pressures change due to higher elevation and the fact that the engine of the Model A is one durable item, I think synthetic oil would be a good choice for many folks around the country. I would need more info on your specific area to make a better suggestion.

I'd like to hear other thoughts.

[canadian]

Hey Cape Codder , just curious, are you using a oil filter system on your engine?

[steve s]

I would like to hear an explanation of how an oil can be too slick. I mean an actual explanation, not just an impassioned restatement of the claim.

[1931 flamingo]

To Cape Codder: Why??
Paul in CT

[mhsprecher]

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I have been using Mobil 1 in both of my As. The PO of the TS had used it and I changed over to it in my roadster when I bought it. I have no empirical data, but everything has been fine with both. I will do some oil tests in the coming months.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by steve s

I would like to hear an explanation of how an oil can be too slick. I mean an actual explanation, not just an impassioned restatement of the claim.

i tried looking up anything about this - nothing really showed up short of NOT using it to break in a newly honed engine. you want some friction to let the rings seat. Found some complaints from model T people using it and stp in thier wet gearboxes creating issues with band wear but nothing related to engine bearings. If anything you want the oil to get to the bearings and valvetrain asap.

[Cape Codder]

NCRebel - All i can say is that we can get quite a bit of snow and it does get cold although I have the car in a heated garage.
canadian - No,I don't.
steve s - I don't have any explanation except that I thought I read that Synthetic was slicker then standard oil. That's why I have posted here to learn.
1931 flamingo - Like I said, "Sure would help not having to crawl under the car so often".
mhsprecher - Thanks for your info, BUT I don't understand "The PO of the TS". Sorry, guess I'm a little slow.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

NCRebel - All i can say is that we can get quite a bit of snow and it does get cold although I have the car in a heated garage.
canadian - No,I don't.
steve s - I don't have any explanation except that I thought I read that Synthetic was slicker then standard oil. That's why I have posted here to learn.
1931 flamingo - Like I said, "Sure would help not having to crawl under the car so often".
mhsprecher - Thanks for your info, BUT I don't understand "The PO of the TS". Sorry, guess I'm a little slow.

preacher probably means Previous Owner of his Town Sedan

synthetic does flow easier than standard oil but slicker i dont know about - the oil gets contaminated from blowby - doesnt matter what type it is. Diesel oil has more additives to help suspend and collect blowby so dont think running synthetic will allow you to increase oil changes especially with no oil filtration system.

Modern cars get away with it as the benefit of modern engines running 0w-20 oil (yes zero w - twenty) is its so thin they can make tolerances and piston to cyl clearances and rings tighter tolerance so less blow by into the oil thus 7500 oil changes. I dunno what fords doing but gm has oil life meters that the car calculates your driving habbits/area/mileage and tells you the percentage of life remaining of the oil. so if its all steady highway miles under a light load yea 10K miles is not unheard of - if its all city stop and go cold starts it may only be 4500...

[Cape Codder]

SeaSlugs - Thanks for the definition of PO & TS! Believe it or not I already have what I think is some minor blow by. Like I said I would like to extend the oil changes.

[Pete F]

Ok I’ll give you my 2cents from an engine builder for the last 50 years.
After a Engine is broken in the synthetic oil is great however pushing the mileage on oil change intervals is not advisable.
In new cars with fuel injection the engines run so efficient the oil contamination is minimal ,
In our old school engines we contaminate the oil with the carbs we run and with old ignition.
In a carbureted engines the vacuum goes high on decel and the engines pull fuel that doesn’t get burned.
In new cars they just about close the injector on decel to save fuel and stop contamination.
So the bottom line is run the synthetic oil but do not try and go 5000 miles on a oil change.


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[Cape Codder]

PeteF - Thanks for your "2cents". A little off topic but would at least running an air filter help?

[slammin]

I haven't change the oil in my new 29 Tudor yet. Larry the PO tells me the engine has less than 500 miles since rebuild with insert bearings. I have the receipt for an $1,877 rebuild in 1996. He used diesel oil in it. I was going use synthetic, but without a filter I have decided to use 10W40 dino, changing at 500 mile intervals. I feel that without a filter I don't want dirty oil in the crankcase for extended mileage.

[Pete F]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

PeteF - Thanks for your "2cents". A little off topic but would at least running an air filter help?

I would run something for sure.
But that’s going to help the rings and valves from getting dirt in but not much for the crankcase.


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[Frank Miller]

I ran my 49 with a partial flow filter 8100 miles coast to coast. Sent out a sample and the long story short, they said try 9000 next time. It showed little metals and fuel contamination. The additive number was fine. Now this was over the course of 26 days so there were few short trips. Total moving time was 166 hours.

[NCRebel]

Thanks for the reply Cap Codder. I should have realized from your name the climate you live in. I see you use a lighter weight than I use (or need).

I hope you are coming to a logical choice.

[CWPASADENA]

Model A engines do not have a very good ventilation system and are prone to accumulating moisture, especially in the valve chamber area.

I feel it is very important to change the oil frequently just to get the moisture out of the engine.

I will change the oil every 1000 miles on my Vickey because it is just used mostly for short trips close to home.

I use my Tudor for touring and will change the oil at 2000 miles or more. This car is used primarily only for long trips where the engine is run at operating temperature for long periods of time.

Neither engine is equipped with an oil filter. I live in a warm climate. I use non-synthetic 10-40 in the Vickey and 20-50 in the Tudor.

This is my thinking but as you can already see, other have different opinions.

Chris W.

[tinkirk]

10W30 Mobil one syn.
in everything i own
after seeing the difference in race motors i've built after a season of running hard, the inside of the motors where spotless compared to when conventional oil was used

jmo

[nhusa]

Too slick in a model T could cause a problem with the transmission but not in a Model A.

[glenn in camino]

I use synthetic oil with an oil filter and a K&N air filter. The oil doesn't change color in 1000 miles, but I change it every 1000 miles anyway.