Transmission Main Drive Bearings

[goodcar]

One of the suppliers sells the transmission main drive bearings, one for $8.75 and the other for $10.50. Another supplier sells both of theirs for $32.50 each. Why the drastic difference in price??

[redmodelt]

Quality of bearing or just scalping.

[Ray64]

Are the fingers on the pressure dialed in to specs.?

[Joe K]

Buy the ones with seals on both sides. Originals only had shields on the outer, but double seals make MUCH more sense.

Your vendor can tell you if his have both side seals.

Joe K

[Greg Jones]

Bert's sells the Timken variety of those bearings. Be advised they will likely not say Made in USA on them as Timken has plants all over the world. But they are high quality.

[1955cj5]

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You could also try a local bearing supply, depending on where you are.....

[Brian in Wheeling]

Well, most of what you get will be made offshore nowadays. Joe K - I believe the originals were un shielded and only had a plate baffle on the inside?
Go with what you want. Original bearings, if good are an option. You'd be surprised many are still serviceable in my experience.
Brian W.

[Greg Jones]

Just to clarify, just because Timken bearings might be made outside the USA does not automatically mean they are inferior.

[Brian in Wheeling]

Greg- correct. Just look at all the high dollar and extremely well made cars from some of the foreign manufacturers. Bearings are made to a quality standard...or ....where they look for such things, i.e. in QC. Right now not sure about India or Siri Lanka.

[Larry Jenkins]

Originally Posted by goodcar

One of the suppliers sells the transmission main drive bearings, one for $8.75 and the other for $10.50. Another supplier sells both of theirs for $32.50 each. Why the drastic difference in price??

When I did my 30 CCPU, I had two trannies to choose from for the rebuild. Both had the original ball bearings. Cleaned 'em up; greased them and spun. No noise; no "growl".. no problems at all.

Try this.. Might save you some money and get good (maybe better) bearings too..

[redmodelt]

Originally Posted by Joe K

Buy the ones with seals on both sides. Originals only had shields on the outer, but double seals make MUCH more sense.

Your vendor can tell you if his have both side seals.

Joe K

Wouldn't you want one side open to get lubed? If both sides are shielded/sealed how will the lube get in?

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by redmodelt

Wouldn't you want one side open to get lubed? If both sides are shielded/sealed how will the lube get in?

Modern bearings are "lubed for life" and double sealed bearing especially so.

During the Model A Era, lubricants were a lot more basic and bearing sealing was only in its beginning stages - and Ford elected to make the bearings take their lube from the gearcase - which is a totally different lube application.

With "shields" as an attempt to keep the oil "in."

Some discussion of the pros and cons of bearing lube at http://www.nmbtc.com/bearings/engineering/lubricant/

Generally light grease factory installed affords the longest bearing life.

Plus double sealed bearings keep the 600W oil IN the gearcase and not a drip hanging from your universal joint or flywheel housing.

(O-rings or the "cover kit" on your reverse idler shafts help too.)

Joe K

[goodcar]

Originally Posted by Joe K

Modern bearings are "lubed for life" and double sealed bearing especially so.

During the Model A Era, lubricants were a lot more basic and bearing sealing was only in its beginning stages - and Ford elected to make the bearings take their lube from the gearcase - which is a totally different lube application.

With "shields" as an attempt to keep the oil "in."

Some discussion of the pros and cons of bearing lube at http://www.nmbtc.com/bearings/engineering/lubricant/

Generally light grease factory installed affords the longest bearing life.

Plus double sealed bearings keep the 600W oil IN the gearcase and not a drip hanging from your universal joint or flywheel housing.

(O-rings or the "cover kit" on your reverse idler shafts help too.)

Joe K

OK, so if I used the double sealed bearings, would I need to still need to use the baffles or leave them off. The problem I have with original unsealed bearings is leakage into the u-joint mixing with the grease which then creeps up the speedometer cable making a slimy mess that I'm always wiping off. While we're on the subject, is it necessary to completely pack the u-joint full of grease as mine was? To all, thank you for your suggestions.

[redmodelt]

I looked at that web site posted above, reading it leads me to the conclusion it's talking about mini ball bearings that are used in things such as drills etc where they have a short "life time". I would have to look the bearings we have in stock for transmissions to see if they are double or single sealed. I for one would rather know that as long as there is lube in the transmission, they are getting some too. Seems to me I have read somewhere in the past to remove the inboard seal(s) in this application if you used double sealed bearings.
Yes the U-joint housing need should be filled. Best way I have found is to drop the speedometer drive down some or take it off the driveshaft tube and fill till you see it come out the opening. Unless the gasket was glued to the parts it should not need replacing, the grease should be enough to seal once it is reattached.

[Greg Jones]

Even with double sealed bearings use the baffles. Needed to keep spacing correct.

[Tom Endy]

Bratton's $8.75 and $10.50 bearings work just fine. I have been using them for years when rebuilding transmissions and I have never had a failure with one. They are made off-shore, they appear to be good quality, and they are sealed on both sides. My preference is to pull the inboard seal off each bearing so that the lubrication oil will reach the element. This can create an argument as some think they should remain sealed to keep contaminated oil from reaching the elements. It is a personal choice.

The transmission in my Vic has these bearings installed and there is at least 30,000 miles on them.

Tom Endy

[Joe K]

If you have the original "ring cage" universal joint - then yes grease exceedingly.

If you have the later Model A production "dana-spicer" type U joint (with an "X" and two matched yokes and replaceable needle bearings) then give the moving parts a coat of grease before you close it up. These U-joints have the torrington needle bearings which come greased and when assembled are sealed. Additional grease beyond this is superfluous and may in fact drag you down (or worse liquefy under increase in temperature and leak some from the housing.)

Ford did incorporate newer and better - and the Dana-Spicer U-joint is one of them. Now the same U-joint is used WITHOUT any covering or protection - or even paint - under most rear drive vehicles.

Joe K