The Ford Barn

Colonel · 01-07-2015, 07:16 PM

Had to pull my timing covers and oil pan to replace leaking gaskets. Noticed there was a rubberized donut on the pulley shaft. It shows some wear but generally is in decent shape. There was some oil leakage from this area. I am not pulling or rebuilding the engine as it runs very nice.

Should I re-use this seal? Should I put some form a gasket on it to help it seal better or should I remove it and install rope. I don't know how to replace the rubber seal. All comments really appreciated.

Charles Coe · 01-07-2015, 08:20 PM

I would remove it and use the rope seals.

hardtimes · 01-07-2015, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colonel

Had to pull my timing covers and oil pan to replace leaking gaskets. Noticed there was a rubberized donut on the pulley shaft. It shows some wear but generally is in decent shape. There was some oil leakage from this area. I am not pulling or rebuilding the engine as it runs very nice.

Should I re-use this seal? Should I put some form a gasket on it to help it seal better or should I remove it and install rope. I don't know how to replace the rubber seal. All comments really appreciated.

Hey Colonel,
If you are talking of the front crank seal, you can buy same new, from Snyders and possibly others. It is a ONE piece seal made of neoprene (I think) . Anyway , in order to put that one in place, you need to remove front crank pulley. Now the bummer info...you need to have the crank loose, so that the seal can go into its place.
I bolted mine down, then realized that I'd forgotten to put that seal on first, then couldn't find lost seal anyway...what the heck , no hobby for old men , eh

!
Now good news is that WE can still install 'dog turd' (rope?) seal

!

Tom Wesenberg · 01-07-2015, 09:51 PM

I've never had to replace a front rope seal due to leaks.
I've read about people trying to fix a non problem with a modern seal and creating a problem.

western77 · 01-08-2015, 07:34 AM

Rope seal all the way! The pan and the timing cover are not machined to accept a modern seal therefore it's hard to get a good seal. JB

MrBruce · 01-08-2015, 09:20 AM

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Use the rope seal and soak it in oil before you install it. Very few if any leaks from the front seal.

Mike V. Florida · 01-09-2015, 12:14 AM

I have read here that the rubber thing will work IF the crank area where the doughnut rides is polished like a mirror and there is no play in the bearings.

fiddlybits · 01-09-2015, 01:01 PM

I have had excellent results with..... either seal.
Rope - presoak is not an option. If you have never done one, get someone who has to show you how. Not hard but easy to make choices that will prove to be wrong. (like "trimming")
Modern - I have never done an A but I have replace dozens of rope seals on other vintage cars with no leaks
The surface of the shaft has to be smooth but not mirror smooth. Mirror smooth will leak. The seal has to "seat". It will polish the seal point.
The seal will probably not mate perfectly in the block & pan. If it is a snug fit, permatex form-a-gasket #2 is all that it needs. This is the one place that I usually end up using some RTV to seal the seal to the block/pan.

01-07-2015, 07:16 PM	#1
Colonel Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Indiana Posts: 251	Front Engine Seal Had to pull my timing covers and oil pan to replace leaking gaskets. Noticed there was a rubberized donut on the pulley shaft. It shows some wear but generally is in decent shape. There was some oil leakage from this area. I am not pulling or rebuilding the engine as it runs very nice. Should I re-use this seal? Should I put some form a gasket on it to help it seal better or should I remove it and install rope. I don't know how to replace the rubber seal. All comments really appreciated.

01-07-2015, 09:51 PM	#4
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Front Engine Seal I've never had to replace a front rope seal due to leaks. I've read about people trying to fix a non problem with a modern seal and creating a problem.

01-08-2015, 07:34 AM	#5
western77 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Grand Rapids Mi Posts: 168	Re: Front Engine Seal Rope seal all the way! The pan and the timing cover are not machined to accept a modern seal therefore it's hard to get a good seal. JB

01-08-2015, 09:20 AM	#6
MrBruce Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 310	Re: Front Engine Seal Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Use the rope seal and soak it in oil before you install it. Very few if any leaks from the front seal.

01-09-2015, 12:14 AM	#7
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: Front Engine Seal I have read here that the rubber thing will work IF the crank area where the doughnut rides is polished like a mirror and there is no play in the bearings. __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

01-07-2015, 08:20 PM	#2
Charles Coe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pace, FL near Pensacola Posts: 374	Re: Front Engine Seal I would remove it and use the rope seals.

01-09-2015, 01:01 PM	#8
fiddlybits Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: N Illinois Posts: 447	Re: Front Engine Seal I have had excellent results with..... either seal. Rope - presoak is not an option. If you have never done one, get someone who has to show you how. Not hard but easy to make choices that will prove to be wrong. (like "trimming") Modern - I have never done an A but I have replace dozens of rope seals on other vintage cars with no leaks The surface of the shaft has to be smooth but not mirror smooth. Mirror smooth will leak. The seal has to "seat". It will polish the seal point. The seal will probably not mate perfectly in the block & pan. If it is a snug fit, permatex form-a-gasket #2 is all that it needs. This is the one place that I usually end up using some RTV to seal the seal to the block/pan.