replacing starter switch on 1933 ford model b

[FrankWest]

My starter switch busted and I am attempting to replace it. I disconnected the battery but see sparks when I try to disconnect the electrical leads from the old switch. Is this from the coil/solenoid?

[rockfla]

One side of your starter switch is "HOT" or direct from the battery all the time....the "other" wires (large yellow) from that side of the switch are feeding power to things in your car like the lights, brake light, horn, on/off switch (which controls the power to your coil)

[FrankWest]

I though by disconnecting the battery, the switch would be safe to work on.

[rockfla]

[QUOTE=FrankWest;2294666]I though by disconnecting the battery, the switch would be safe to work on.[/QUOTE
Yes, It "SHOULD" be. IF you have done that AND it is "STILL" arcing at ANY wires past the battery, someone has done some funky wiring. IF It is then there "Should" be a wire connected at the battery (-) terminal.....IT has to be drawing power direct at the battery or you have a hidden power source somewhere.

[rockfla]

Frank


Here is your "basic" wiring diagram

[Terry,OH]

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Should be no sparks without power.

[DavidG]

I believe that he is asking about a four, not a V8. In any event, as Terry notes, no power, no sparks.

[FrankWest]

thanks

[FrankWest]

No modifications..

[FrankWest]

Either my NOS switch is bad or I messed up up in installing. The right side just has one wire from the battery and the left side has 3 wires? It is getting harder to bend down to do the work. I took each side off separately so there should not be a problem. Maybe the NOS switch is bad? I knew the old switch was bad because it was compressed down and would not spring back.

[Terry,OH]

Think you have the two smaller yellow wires on the wrong side of the switch, they should be on the side with the cable to the battery (-) terminal. The second terminal has just one cable to the starter motor. Look at the wiring diagram in the club restoration book and confirm.

[rockfla]

TerryOH X2, the "basic" diagram is there in post #3 and shows what Terry speaks

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

Think you have the two smaller yellow wires on the wrong side of the switch, they should be on the side with the cable to the battery (-) terminal. The second terminal has just one cable to the starter motor. Look at the wiring diagram in the club restoration book and confirm.

I have two smaller wires and battery negative connected to the left side.
Note..The previous starter switch was connected this way and worked perfectly. I Connected the NOS switch from Fred Millner, Obsolete auto. He said he never had a problem with any of these NOS switches. Well I guess there is always a first. I really suspect the switch. I didn't do anything else. Is there an easy way I can by pass the switch, touch two wires together to get the car to turn over.

[FrankWest]

I installed another starter floor switch and it still would not work.
Originally, the problem started when I pushed in the switch and it did not spring back, So I ordered a NOS switch.
Funny if something besides the switch failed when I pressed it in and it stuck.
Maybe too much juice overloaded the electrical component. Coil? solenoid? what else?

[FrankWest]

It's been a while since I looked at the electrical system. I don't remember seeing a fuse?
Strange that there would be NO fuse.

[Terry,OH]

There is no fuse in the starter motor circuit or the ignition circuit. None of the pre war cars from Ford had fuses in these areas.

I guess you must have mis-spoke in your posting #10 describing the wiring. " The right side just has one wire from the battery and the left side has 3 wires? "
If the cars problem is the starter will not turn over and you have replaced the starter switch, before blaming the same part over and over, test the switches with an ohmmeter if they have continuity, look elsewhere for the problem. The Battery, starter motor, electrical cables including the ground cable. any of these if bad will not allow the starter to turn.