Confessions of a Model A Modifier – Model A Upgrades?

[30Tudor]

I’m always interested on this site about how when people suggest they may want to add a more modern item to their Model A to improve performance or reliability how much debate it garners. This applies to alternators versus generators, regular brakes versus floaters, etc. I really appreciate the opinions because it helps me realize that the stock Model A was pretty good in its day and for most people the modifications are trying to mask other symptoms rather than actually fix problems. For example an alternator will not fix wiring/electrical issues.

I’m hoping that by posting this thread it will solicit opinions from people on the value of modifications they have made to their Model A and where you think the biggest bang-for-the-buck is. I suspect something similar was likely on the old fordbarn. What would your top three bang-for-the-buck modifications be and why?

I like to experiment and tinker so here are some of the crazy and unfortunately expensive things I have done over the years – this stuff adds up but I sure enjoy the hobby. My car is a driver and I have no desire to have a points car (well OK maybe I do someday). I am trying to preserve the stock look of my Model A as much as possible.

I suspect some people would prefer this post be on the “hot rod & customs” forum rather than here. I don’t mean to insult anybody or cause a fight (I have no opinions on oil). I'm just trying to contribute something to this forum and perhaps help out others based on what I learned - and am still learning thanks to all of you.

Here we go....

· Modern Engine mounts – A guy gave me an extra set of his and I put them in. Not sure it was worth the trouble. My frame hasn’t buckled yet as some people claim it will. I put the rear support in and believe it is necessary to be installed.
· Oil filter – this is a “feel good” thing for me as I still change the oil every 500 miles regardless. With the filter I can now spend more money and make more of a mess everytime I change the oil.
· Air filter – I use the large K&N filter to make the air flow resistance as low as possible. Can’t understand why you wouldn’t use an air filter if you want your engine to last? Where would the bugs have gone that get trapped on my filter?
· Modern Starter Bendix – I had a bendix bolt in my previous p/u (not retrieved by the previous owner) jam between the flywheel and the housing bringing the car to an abrupt grinding stop – fortunately there was no damage and the bolt came out easily using a magnet pick-up through the starter hole after I got everything unstuck by pushing the car backwards in gear. The old bendix now terrifies me.
· LED Brake Lights – huge difference in brightness as I suspect the halogen bulbs are as well.
· LED Centre Rear Light- huge safety upgrade from a rear visibility perspective – a necessity IMO.
· Cast Iron Drums – safety and reliability improvement – very expensive but you can’t put a price on being able to stop after braking down a long hill.
· Brake floaters –Currently installing “Ted’s” – My stock brakes are in excellent shape and are properly set-up however, there is absolutely no question in my mind, based on my experience, the floaters improve braking responsiveness and ease.
· High Compression head – huge bang for the buck for me in terms of power improvement and drivability.
· Ported and polished intake and exhaust ports and manifolds (did it myself when I rebuilt the engine) – hard to tell as I didn’t have a reference but I think it made a big difference. I did the HC head, B cam, porting and muffler installation all at the same time and the impact of all of these was huge.
· Model B cam – A very generous guy in our club gave me an NOS camshaft. Again no reference point for me but I think it made a difference.
· Aries muffler – I considered the dyno test results showing a HP increase but the bigger issue was I could never really get my old muffler to properly seal to the manifold even after hours of metal bashing, sleeves, gaskets and trying everything else. I have a used muffler for free (less shipping) if you would like it.
· Alternator – absolutely made a huge difference to headlight brightness, however, I really like the look of the generator and am considering going back but adding an EVR. If I keep the alternator, I think I will add the better bearing and sleeve set on the water pump. Also intend to add the exciter circuit.
· Mitchell Overdrive – I actually don't use it in third gear most of the time on tours because the average speed is 40 -45 MPH (I may have 3:54 gears in my differential), however, I use it in second gear all the time. If I ever get permission from "the boss" to order the Mitchell synchromesh transmission I will be looking to get better 2-3 gear spacing. These are big expense items and I’m not sure they really offer a high bang for the buck.
· Aluminum cam shaft gear – my prior fibre gear had some teeth come off it – there is no difference in noise between my car with the metal gear and other cars which have the fibre gear. I also shimmed up the thrust plunger so the clearance is 2 to 5 thousands to stop any shaft movement. It's a crazy thing we do in our club but it seems to work.
· Four blade fan – I’m assuming this is an improvement. I’m just terrified of the 2 blade fan after hearing that the blades may come off – do I need to be? I like the look of the two blade fan better and theoretically it would even reduce the probability of having my fingers cut off by 50%.
· Radiator overflow tank – got a little concerned about seeing people’s radiators overflow on tours and the amount of antifreeze that was getting spewed on the road. With the standard set-up it’s a bit tricky to find the right level and people always seem to be topping up wether they need to our not. The overflow tank makes this trial and error process a none-issue and its good for the environment.
· Shortened pitman arm – turning ease – definately good bang for the buck
· Modern water pump seal – big improvement and a no brainer - haven’t had a leak since. Installing the front thrust washer is a must.
· Downsizing my carburetor jets – my theory was that with modern higher energy content fuels the original jet sizes are sized too large. I undersized my jets by two drill sizes each and I know I get better way gas mileage than others (prior to the overdrive), although I haven’t actually measured it - I just compare tank fill amount with others when we gas up on tour. Further adjusting the GAV actually makes a difference. What do you think - I must be crazy and my engine is going to blow up?
· Bowl fuel filter – Luckily it’s not catching any chunks of rust which is a good thing, however, I had to modify it to make it fit into the sediment bowl cap better.
· Amber Cowl Light signal bulbs – home painted. There is no question people coming toward me can see my front signal lights. I didn’t see much other use for the cowl lights as they don’t really provide that much light.
· Turn signal buzzer – definitely makes me aware my turn signals are on when I turn or change lanes at the beginning of the season. By the end of the season I am actually turning off the signals in my regular car manually. Then we freeze up here in Canada for 6 months and I have to re-teach myself all over in the spring. On tours I like to time how long it takes people to turn off their turn signals – I think the longest so far is 30 minutes.
· Additional ground cable – one from the battery to the frame and one from the battery to the engine – no issues with a sluggish starter. Question this if you have engine splash pans as I do.
· Babbit versus Inserts – I went with babbit and hope I never have the opportunity to debate the merits of babbit versus inserts again –touch wood.
· Modern points – not sure on this one - the big thing is probably the condenser location and getting it further away from head and manifold heat. I have the wireless bottom plate and I’m a bit nervous based on some feedback on this site about it potentially burning out. Keeping an eye on it.
· Modern ignition switch – replaced my old pop-out switch after having had a person with an issue on a tour. I will likely add some gauges down the road and if they are lighted, this can’t be done as effectively with the pop-out. If doing it again would get the switch with the accessory position.
· Number 8 stud clamp modification – I can easily take the ignition cable off without having to undo the number 8 stud and risk head warping or a gasket failure. Not sure I even need the cable clamp anyway. Previously posted a picture on this.
· Rear Trunk – absolutely couldn’t live without it when we go on tours or trips. Where else would I put my 50lbs of tools and all the spares I require if my modifications don't work.
· Premium gasoline – avoids ethanol issues which in Canada is sometimes a problem with the 87 octane regular. Haven’t experienced any knock or ping, however, maybe I don’t know what they sound like anyway.
· Stone guard? Considering installing one after seeing the picture on this site showing damage that a rock can do falling off of a truck. On the other side of the argument, I hate the idea of having to clean the bugs out of my radiator as this is easy without the guard.
· Step plates – ordered a set a while back and they are still in the box. I am now thinking that too much “bling” may not be a good thing.

So in terms of the biggest bang for the buck, my top three would be the; high compression head, the rear trunk and the rear centre brake light. Any thoughts on the above?

What would be your top three modifications and why?