Diagram to make terminal box switchable

[Ayers1]

I have heard that you can move a couple of wires around between the coil and terminal box in order to make 1 side work through the switch. I have a a combination oil/water meter that needs to be switched. Does anyone have a diagram that shows how to rewire the box?
Thanks,

[John]

If you are concerned with the internal gauge lights, another way is to connect the gauge light into the taillight light circuit, not the stop light circuit. That way it will come on whenever you turn the lights on. I also hook my dash light into this circuit. No extra switch or wiring changes needed.

John

[Ayers1]

I have the light worked out. The gauge that I have is electronic and runs off the original 6v positive ground. It does have to be switched on and off. Right now I have it on a separate switch but would like it to run "automatically " when I turn the key on.

[Y-Blockhead]

What I think you are asking is to make your gauge turn on with the ignition switch? If so you need to move the ignition switch before the coil instead of after so you are not interrupting the ignition system.

I had to wire it that way so my tach is switchable with the switch. My car is 12v negative ground but the concept is the same. I will post a picture in a moment when I find it...

[Ayers1]

Yes, that's what I'm looking for. Thanks!

[Y-Blockhead]

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I hope this helps you. Obviously it will not work if you have a Pop Out Switch. Substitute your gage where my tach is..

[Ayers1]

I'll check it out and see. Thanks for posting!

[TomInCologne]

Y-Blockhead:


why will your wiring diagram not work with a pop-out switch?

[Ayers1]

Originally Posted by TomInCologne

Y-Blockhead:


why will your wiring diagram not work with a pop-out switch?

If you look at the diagram you will see that the place where the armored cable connects changes. In a pop out switch you can't disconnect the cable from the switch.

[TomInCologne]

Originally Posted by Ayers1

If you look at the diagram you will see that the place where the armored cable connects changes. In a pop out switch you can't disconnect the cable from the switch.

Hm, i seem to remember that the armored part went in the area behind the pop-out switch and the cable inside was connected to the switch with a screw. Is that not original?



i would provide a photograph but i hate taking that part of the dash panel off...

[Ayers1]

On the pop out switch there is 1 terminal with a screw on the case of the switch. It then runs out the armored cable to the distributor. On an aftermarket switch there are 2 terminals with screws on the case of the switch. One of these terminals connects to the cable going to the distributor. According to the diagram above, the connection from the switch has to be moved. I've never had a pop out switch apart so I'm not sure if the cable can be removed and rewired like the diagram shows.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by TomInCologne

Y-Blockhead:


why will your wiring diagram not work with a pop-out switch?

Haha, You can make anything "work" if you try hard enough. I suppose you could make a Pop-out work but you would have to move the cable and it would no longer work as the theft preventative it was designed for.

Sorry if I confused anyone with the term "Armored Cable". I am refering to the armored cable that is used with a aftermarket switch. The schematic was originally intended for my eyes only...

[TomInCologne]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Haha, You can make anything "work" if you try hard enough. I suppose you could make a Pop-out work but you would have to move the cable and it would no longer work as the theft preventative it was designed for.

well, okay, i think that the theft-preventative of the armo(u)red cable is negligible in todays world... i am prepared to bypass that.


So, are there two screw connections on my pop-out switch or not? I have not taken a photograph, stupid as i am...

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by TomInCologne

well, okay, i think that the theft-preventative of the armo(u)red cable is negligible in todays world... i am prepared to bypass that.


So, are there two screw connections on my pop-out switch or not? I have not taken a photograph, stupid as i am...

It has been a long time since I have dealt with a Pop-out, but there must be two terminals, the red wire in and the armored cable out to the distributor. (see top picture of post #6). I can't recall how the Armored cable is attacted in the Pop-out.

[Ayers1]

Y-Blockhead you were quicker than me. I was getting ready to upload a pic of a pop out.

[TomInCologne]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

It has been a long time since I have dealt with a Pop-out, but there must be two terminals, the red wire in and the armored cable out to the distributor. (see top picture of post #6). I can't recall how the Armored cable is attacted in the Pop-out.

Thanks, that's how i remember it.
I shortened the armoured part and i am pretty sure there is a screwed connection for the cable in there. I will check this next time i have to do the dreaded 'take the dash off' job...

[Y-Blockhead]

Just a reminder, my car is 12v Negative ground. If you car is Positive ground you need to switch the terminals on the coil (in my picture) so + is toward the distributor.

[rotorwrench]

The model A doesn't have a lot of room inside the panel. The pop out is the ground circuit between the coil and the breaker points. It's not made to be anything other than that. If it is replaced with a standard type key switch then it has to be converted to the power side of the coil. A power in wire will have to be installed as well as a power out wire to the oil. Any other power out wires to accessories will also have to be installed. The amp meter already has a power wire for the dash light so there isn't a lot of room left for other wires on it. The terminals are a bit short.

Having wired up a few of these old cars, I can attest to how little space there is left over in the terminal box. Some wiring may have to bypass the terminal box. With more power wires installed a person may have to consider in line fuses for each accessory.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

The model A doesn't have a lot of room inside the panel. The pop out is the ground circuit between the coil and the breaker points. It's not made to be anything other than that. If it is replaced with a standard type key switch then it has to be converted to the power side of the coil. A power in wire will have to be installed as well as a power out wire to the oil. Any other power out wires to accessories will also have to be installed. The amp meter already has a power wire for the dash light so there isn't a lot of room left for other wires on it. The terminals are a bit short.

Having wired up a few of these old cars, I can attest to how little space there is left over in the terminal box. Some wiring may have to bypass the terminal box. With more power wires installed a person may have to consider in line fuses for each accessory.

I agree with everything you say except that an accessory switch "has to be wired to the power side of the coil" Many accessory switches are wired in place of the Pop-out downstream of the coil.

IMO tho it is better to wiring the switch before the coil. This way the wire going to the coil is not always HOT..

All that said, I do have a fuse block for all circiuts in my car. It is hidden up under the tank and uses the bottom two junction box bolts.

[rotorwrench]

This is true but it couldn't be used to provide power to power circuits such as the OP was interested in. Wiring it as a ground path would add extra wiring in an already crowded area.