electronic ignition

[Big John V]

Hi Folks... I am new to the forum and have a question.
I am interested in converting my 1934 V8 with a electronic ignition system.
Due to the position of the rotor in the so called "Helmet" distributor it might need some creative adjustments... I have trouble finding the right parts.
Anybody know if there is a system on the marked for my Truck?

My name is John AKA Big John.
My vehicle is a 1934 Ford V8 1 1/2 ton flatbed truck all stock
thank you.

[AnthonyG]

Hey John, welcome to the FB. While lot's of Barner's don't like them ( many do ). The Mallory electronic for your '34 will work well. Easily found at Speedway. Tell them the designation of your motor sounds like an 8A ) and they'll point y!ou in the right direction. I run one on my 8BA and it's fine. Way easier than the stock Dist.

[37fordtruckguy]

try looking at pertronix or unilite

[Big John V]

Thanks guys, I checked out all your suggestions... the Mallory seems to be the way to go. It only comes with a 12 volt system though and my truck is all stock and I would like to keep it that way.
Also the Mallory dist. does look different from stock, so I am leaning towards a overhaul of my stock dist. and settle for points again.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Send your stock 34 dist to Babba and it will come back better than new, will last you for years. Walt

[scooder]

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The divers helmet is a good ignition as is. Perfect for the stock engine.
I would not replace it, I'd just rebuild and run it.
Using a decent set of points, good quality condenser and a good quality coil, you'd be perfect.
The Mallory needs the ignition curve modified to work properly on a Flathead. Yes there "made" for a Flathead, yes they bolt on, yes they work "ok". They don't work as well as a stock Ford ignition on a stock flathead unless they are recurved to actually have a proper flathead ignition curve. The Mallory's I've done all had a curve too long and to slow, essentially a small block brand X ignition curve.
Martin.

[Big John V]

Thanks Martin, I am convinced.. I want my truck to be stock, just have ignition issues.
I'll go with Walt's idea, to get in contact with Baba and have it overhauled.

[Mike B]

Note:

It's Bubba, he'll probably chime in soon though

[joe plumber]

Petronix use to make a 6 volt set up.I got one from Speedway before I switched to 12 volts

[Big John V]

Joe, I tried Petronix.. but could not find a system pre 1942...anyway, I am having my dist. rebuild stock now... thx. Tried Emailing the guys at Bubba's but Email keeps coming back. Wondering if it has something to do with me Emailing from Canada.

[chap52]

John,
Check out "Bubba's" latest post "Msd buys Mallory-Mr Gasket".
Then give him a call for the best advice on ignitions.

[Blu Dice]

Don't do anything until you talked to Bubba.

[AnthonyG]

Post #2 on this thread https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163756 is from Bubba's giving you the info you need on the Mallory e-ig.

[supereal]

Many electronic ignition systems have problems. They can be heat sensitive, and lack of input voltage regulation is another. The stock Ford distributor is one of the most reliable, and unless you are building a rod, the cost and bother hardly justify the cost for street use.

[1936 ford pickup]

Hi John,

I have a '36 Ford 1/2 ton pickup with the "helmet" style distributor. I wanted to retain the stock look but have electronic ignition (I really don't know why, after reading some of these posts).
I sent my distributor up to Philbin Manufacturing in Portland, Oregon and they converted over to electronic ignition via. Pertronix brand module. Philbin Manufacturing can also supply you with the correct type of Spark Plug wires. You can Google search for their web-site. I converted my system over to 12 Volt negative ground. You can Google my videos at 1936 ford pickup bruce smith and see the videos.

Bruce
Modesto, Ca.

[Big John V]

Thanks guys.... after all the story's and advice, I have decided to have my dist. rebuild with some modifications for more advance at low RPM.
Reached out to a couple of guys who advertise this service, but no luck so far...

[scooder]

John,
If you just want more advance lower down but retain the maximum advance as stock. You can back off the vacuum brake, this will allow the advance to come in sooner.
Pull the vacuum brake, give him a clean (they can get sticky or stuck.) plop him back in and have a play with the vacuum brake adjustment.
You could easily pull the ignition, and give him a good clean up, free up sticky stuff, relube where needed, adjust the points and good to go. It's all do at home stuff, you don't need special fixtures. Nice to have, but not necessary.
The thing you desire could be a spanner turn away.
Have fun now,
Martin.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by Big John V

Thanks guys.... after all the story's and advice, I have decided to have my dist. rebuild with some modifications for more advance at low RPM.
Reached out to a couple of guys who advertise this service, but no luck so far...

I would suggest using the 11A shaft and advance with the small contacts for increased rpm and more advance .....

[FlatheadTed]

Best to set these up on a distributor machine if you can at least the KR Wilson timing fixture .I have done lots of these over the years and its rare to pull one to bits and find the Points and dwell is in spec ,most have new points in them so they haven't been run much but obviously not good .You can use the ruler method but is one down from the VR fixture . Skip Haney offers this service as well and with one of his new rebuilt coils can be a great combination , waterproofing on the tubes an Coil the adaptor is important .Ted

[Big John V]

Yeah... thanks guys. I hear storry's about higher octane use these days therefor more advance is recommended... Bubba, would you be interested doing what you suggesting to my dist.?