The Ford Barn

Mitch//pa · 01-16-2017, 07:55 PM

Yea they are the tougher problems when u cant duplicate in the shop or put a scanner on it...

Tom Wesenberg · 01-16-2017, 08:15 PM

Try another distributor body, as they sometimes short, usually between 3 and 4, and it's most likely to short under load.

Synchro909 · 01-16-2017, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Try another distributor body, as they sometimes short, usually between 3 and 4, and it's most likely to short under load.

Thanks Tom. I've just had that problem and fixed it with a new body. Fir good measure, I lengthened the plug lead to #3 by soldering in about 3/8" so it stands clear of the body. No one has noticed yet!!!

DougT · 01-16-2017, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Yea they are the tougher problems when u cant duplicate in the shop or put a scanner on it...

Since we can't hook the scanner to it, how about a vacuum gauge? I haven't seen a sticky valve mentioned yet. Dare I say add MMO in the gas??

Synchro909 · 01-16-2017, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DougT

Since we can't hook the scanner to it, how about a vacuum gauge? I haven't seen a sticky valve mentioned yet. Dare I say add MMO in the gas??

Doug, the engine has done about 30,000 miles trouble free since rebuild. I think I'm way past worrying about sticky valves. I have never seen MMO here.

I've been chasing my tail trying to find W-18 plugs - no luck except on ebay but I can't contact the seller to confirm (a) number of plugs offered at the price and (b) freight. No one here stocks Champion or an equivalent.

HELP!!

Dick Steinkamp · 01-16-2017, 09:58 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Amazon has the 3x plugs for $28.68...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002796PJW...l_95a1c9tkrf_e

Mitch//pa · 01-16-2017, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DougT

Since we can't hook the scanner to it, how about a vacuum gauge? I haven't seen a sticky valve mentioned yet. Dare I say add MMO in the gas??

Ill pass on the vacuum gauge and use more concrete modern methods.

Benson · 01-16-2017, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Doug, the engine has done about 30,000 miles trouble free since rebuild. I think I'm way past worrying about sticky valves. I have never seen MMO here.

I've been chasing my tail trying to find W-18 plugs - no luck except on ebay but I can't contact the seller to confirm (a) number of plugs offered at the price and (b) freight. No one here stocks Champion or an equivalent.

HELP!!

Champion now calls the W-18 = 518. Not all parts houses know this ...

I believe the TT15s are similar heat range but have not run any to see if they are OK...

Many of the plugs are now three numeric digits.

Here is Larry Brumfield's chart on heat ranges ...

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6458

Synchro909 · 01-16-2017, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benson

Champion now calls the W-18 = 518. Not all parts houses know this ...

I believe the TT15s are similar heat range but have not run any to see if they are OK...

Many of the plugs are now three numeric digits

Thanks, I'll retry some of those parts suppliers.

Benson · 01-16-2017, 10:46 PM

See Larry Brumfield's chart URL in Blue in above post ...

The chart will cross reference brands ...

Synchro909 · 01-16-2017, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benson

Champion now calls the W-18 = 518. Not all parts houses know this ...

I believe the TT15s are similar heat range but have not run any to see if they are OK...

Many of the plugs are now three numeric digits.

Here is Larry Brumfield's chart on heat ranges ...

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6458

Amazon tells me that the W-18/518 does not fit a Model A.

Lawrie · 01-17-2017, 02:26 AM

Arnold,why don't you use the type of plug you were using when you went to WA,seemed to go OK then.
lawrie

Rex_A_Lott · 01-17-2017, 08:29 AM

You have quite the list of suggestions, of things to check. All the common stuff seems to have been mentioned. If you make it through the whole list and dont find it, maybe you have a weak valve spring or two. Good Luck

Synchro909 · 01-17-2017, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawrie

Arnold,why don't you use the type of plug you were using when you went to WA,seemed to go OK then.
lawrie

Lawrie, I have always run TT10's for long trips like that. They are a colder than the others and better suited to long distance high speed touring especially with the motor working hard while towing. I think something a little hotter for around town is in order. What do you run in your P/U for running around Gladstone?

1929 · 01-18-2017, 10:19 AM

What type of spark plug wires are you using?

Synchro909 · 01-18-2017, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1929

What type of spark plug wires are you using?

I run the original Model A distributor body and leads (brass strips). Those leads can't break down if that's what you were thinking.
I've put in a good points and condenser distributor and I'll take it out for a test today. If problem is gone, I have isolated it to the dizzy, if not, I'll look at the carby and sort the FS distributor later.

Lawrie · 01-18-2017, 04:43 PM

Arnold ,I think they are ____( I can't remember) but just the std ones,BUT if you use the choke and let it idle for a bit then go to get going up to speed it will miss for a while ,I think until the plugs get rid of the soot,
Will look at the plugs type this morning.
I,m busy doing a major job on the 33,getting the pass side horn level.
leave tomorrow.
Lawrie

Synchro909 · 01-18-2017, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawrie

Arnold ,I think they are ____( I can't remember) but just the std ones,BUT if you use the choke and let it idle for a bit then go to get going up to speed it will miss for a while ,I think until the plugs get rid of the soot,
Will look at the plugs type this morning.
I,m busy doing a major job on the 33,getting the pass side horn level.
leave tomorrow.
Lawrie

Lawrie, keep us posted on your progress.
My car was still missing after about 15K down the freeway. (Missing?? No it wasn't - I knew exactly where it was!

)

Art Newland · 01-18-2017, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I run the original Model A distributor body and leads (brass strips). Those leads can't break down if that's what you were thinking.
I've put in a good points and condenser distributor and I'll take it out for a test today. If problem is gone, I have isolated it to the dizzy, if not, I'll look at the carby and sort the FS distributor later.

Are those FS distributors, a self contained unit or do they have some kind of external control module?

CT Jack · 01-18-2017, 09:37 PM

Call or email Mel Mallory at FS Ignition and explain your simptoms. My guess is the igntion module is working perfect. It either works or it doesn't.
Timing this distributor correctly is important. It can be a little sensitive but it should not cause misfiring if it is off a little. You indicated the distributor button was changed. Make sure it is tight. If it isn't your distributor might have moved without you realizing it. You said you changed the coil it might not have the correct resistance value for your FS distributor module. My main guess is you have a fuel flow problem. First check if any filters you have in the line are blocked then check the carburetor for dirt or blockage. The high speed nozzle could be partially restricted or if this is a new carburetor it could have the wrong size nozzle which could restrict the flow at higher rpm's.

01-16-2017, 07:55 PM	#21
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Misfire at high revs Yea they are the tougher problems when u cant duplicate in the shop or put a scanner on it...

01-16-2017, 08:15 PM	#22
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Misfire at high revs Try another distributor body, as they sometimes short, usually between 3 and 4, and it's most likely to short under load.

01-16-2017, 09:58 PM	#26
Dick Steinkamp Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 1,163	Re: Misfire at high revs Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Amazon has the 3x plugs for $28.68... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002796PJW...l_95a1c9tkrf_e __________________ All steel from pedal to wheel

01-16-2017, 10:46 PM	#30
Benson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,599	Re: Misfire at high revs See Larry Brumfield's chart URL in Blue in above post ... The chart will cross reference brands ...

01-17-2017, 02:26 AM	#32
Lawrie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Qld, Australia Posts: 4,221	Re: Misfire at high revs Arnold,why don't you use the type of plug you were using when you went to WA,seemed to go OK then. lawrie

01-17-2017, 08:29 AM	#33
Rex_A_Lott Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Upstate South Carolina Posts: 794	Re: Misfire at high revs You have quite the list of suggestions, of things to check. All the common stuff seems to have been mentioned. If you make it through the whole list and dont find it, maybe you have a weak valve spring or two. Good Luck

01-18-2017, 10:19 AM	#35
1929 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: New York Posts: 943	Re: Misfire at high revs What type of spark plug wires are you using?

01-18-2017, 04:43 PM	#37
Lawrie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Qld, Australia Posts: 4,221	Re: Misfire at high revs Arnold ,I think they are ____( I can't remember) but just the std ones,BUT if you use the choke and let it idle for a bit then go to get going up to speed it will miss for a while ,I think until the plugs get rid of the soot, Will look at the plugs type this morning. I,m busy doing a major job on the 33,getting the pass side horn level. leave tomorrow. Lawrie

01-18-2017, 09:37 PM	#40
CT Jack Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Hebron, CT Posts: 432	Re: Misfire at high revs Call or email Mel Mallory at FS Ignition and explain your simptoms. My guess is the igntion module is working perfect. It either works or it doesn't. Timing this distributor correctly is important. It can be a little sensitive but it should not cause misfiring if it is off a little. You indicated the distributor button was changed. Make sure it is tight. If it isn't your distributor might have moved without you realizing it. You said you changed the coil it might not have the correct resistance value for your FS distributor module. My main guess is you have a fuel flow problem. First check if any filters you have in the line are blocked then check the carburetor for dirt or blockage. The high speed nozzle could be partially restricted or if this is a new carburetor it could have the wrong size nozzle which could restrict the flow at higher rpm's.