distributor drop in problem

[Gene F]

A telescoping magnet. Like a mechanic would wear in his shirt pocket. Sometimes those old screw starters that we'd wear in out shirt pockets had a magnet on the other end.

[fried okra]

Ha.....Alexiskai....that's exactly one of the ones I bought tonight and also bought a 15# pull magnet on a stalk as a possibility. Will see tomorrow what might hopefully work.

Am gonna soak in some PB Blaster that Joe K mentioned also.

BobC.....you outta make those collets and sell to our suppliers

[fried okra]

Gene F.....the magnet on a stick I bought from Harbor Freight tonight has a 15# pull rating.

If it is gonna come out easily, this outta do it

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-lb-...ool-64656.html

[jack wingard]

I've reviewed the posts and didn't read anywhere if you tried reinstalling the original that you removed to begin with. This could tell you a lot if it does or doesn't

[nkaminar]

You may want to remove valve cover as this will give you access to the drive gear and shaft.

[katy]

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Originally Posted by jack wingard

I've reviewed the posts and didn't read anywhere if you tried reinstalling the original that you removed to begin with. This could tell you a lot if it does or doesn't

Post #1: "All three of my dizzies are similar. None will drop back in as they should."

[fried okra]

Thanks, Jack.....yep, trying to re-install the original and two others I've got. Have PB blaster soaking in the cavity now. It just seems as if the lower shaft has risen up bout 1/2" but is still engaged at the lower end for oil pump.

Yes, may need to remove the valve cover but am running a Weber carb setup and looks kinda tight to get to bolts under there.

[JRrev]

Am assuming the lower shaft rose and won't go down to it's original height. FWIW, I had the problem years ago when the locating pin would not go into the recess. It's been so long ago to remember, but I think I opened up the hole (oblonged) in the head to where the pin would drop in. It may have been an after-market head with the hole in the wrong position. One question I have is have you measured the center of the locating pin to the center of the shaft of the distributors to compare?

[Rob Doe]

There are some distributor castings out there that have the locating pin in the wrong place??? The distributor is off center, as in not parallel with the side of the block, by about 5 degrees. You had too turn the casting to the offset to get the pin to drop in the head.

If I remember, you had one of these distributors on the car and running right?

[Randall]

If it was mine I would put original one in and I know its not going all the way in, and hold it with the lock in head and start engine and see if it will help break whatever is holding it loose.

[fried okra]

Thanks group, it does seem that the lower shaft has risen maybe 1/2" but still appears engaged to the oil pump drive cause it will not rotate.

Yes, the original distributor was in the car and running fine when suddenly stalled due to losing spark.

Any idea why/how the lower shaft could rise bout 1/2" like that? In essence, the lower shaft is free to wobble easily now, after soaking heavily with PB blaster, but will not rotate.

All three dizzies have comparable dimensions and all will drop down only so far after appearing to engage the lower shaft. They seem to engage or lock into the lower shaft but are about 3/16" shy of allowing the distributor locating pin to reach the locating pin hole in the head.

I am thinking trying to pull the lower shaft out of the head and re-think what might be going on.

[Gene F]

Are you a member of your local club? What if a couple guys from the local club come over and take a look?

[fried okra]

Thanks, Gene.....may have to "bribe" someone to come over

[nkaminar]

Take the manifolds off and then the valve cover. Use the copper clad gaskets when you put the manifolds back on and torque the nuts to 55 foot-pounds. After the first 100 miles, re torque the manifold nuts. With your Weber carburetor and manifold you don't have to worry about having the manifolds in the same plane as they are not bolted together.

My Model T club had tech sessions where the club members would come to a member's house to solve a problem. The host would supply lunch, usually barbecue.

[fried okra]

Can the valve cover be taken off maybe without having to remove the intake manifold?

[katy]

Originally Posted by fried okra

Can the valve cover be taken off maybe without having to remove the intake manifold?

On a stock setup - yes.
I understand that you'rs is not exactly stock, so depending on how much different it is, the cover may or may not come off. It's worth a try.

[midgetracer]

My guess is that the drive for the distributor /oil pump has came up a bit and the oil pump is not aligned with the drive. Try using the crank to turn over the engine slowly and maybe the drive will align and drop down into place.

[fried okra]

Midgetracer.....that's kinda what I am wondering too.....why would it come up maybe?

Was thinking about trying to pull the lower shaft out of the cavity but maybe should try the hand crank idea first sounds like.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by midgetracer

My guess is that the drive for the distributor /oil pump has came up a bit and the oil pump is not aligned with the drive. Try using the crank to turn over the engine slowly and maybe the drive will align and drop down into place.

The drive is held down with a reasonably strong spring, so I don't see that happening unless the spring broke.

At this point I think I would pull the manifolds and side cover and have a look see what is going on. You have been struggling with this for ~3 days now. JMO

[Bob C]

I agree with Y-Blockhead, the suspense is killing me.