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01-21-2014, 10:02 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
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1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
Hello,
I just bought a 36 5w coupe. It needs some work, well a lot of work. I think I'm going to start with the floors first. Basically the floors and subrails are gone from the axle forward. I've searched a bit and found some info but I have a few more questions. I'm not really concerned with originality of the floors. I know there are some nice floors being reproduced, but what about subrails? I did find I think waddington making subrails but the pictures are not very good on the website. Does anybody know of another manufacturer of subrails? What about floors out of a 4 door sedan? I know the front doors work on a coupe, so will the floors from the "B" post forward work? I found a rust free 4-door I could possibly use the floors out of. So I'm looking for suggestions, info, links to builds, templates, whatever. Thanks Mark |
01-21-2014, 11:05 PM | #2 |
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Location: New Berlin,Wi
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
Welecome to the Barn,lots of sharp guys on here.There are street rod style floors out there, EMS ,Bitchen, Paul Bradley ect
EMS makes the subrails, they are fine if your not worried if they look 100% stock. I'm doing a 36 3 window and sounds like I'm in the same boat as you are. I bought the EMS subrails and a bunch of there patchs. They will work I'm not real impressed with any of the stuff, I'm too picky and want original looking parts. I would love to find a two door sedan or a 4 door to use the floors out of. If you end up going aftermarket floors and don't buy the 4 door please PM me the info on it. I don't think the doors are a direct bolt on,you have to modify the upper archs.If your doing more of a hotrod check out the HAMB website,LOTS of 35-36 builds going on over there!!Good luck post some pics up!! Joe Last edited by Firepower flyer; 01-21-2014 at 11:08 PM. Reason: more info |
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01-22-2014, 07:51 AM | #3 |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
I used the EMS subrails and they worked OK. BRACING- you can do enough to insure the subrails are an exact fit from the A to B column and, if your B column is "swinging in the breeze" like mine was, you need to use the door to line up the B exactly left to right.
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01-22-2014, 05:35 PM | #4 |
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Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
McPherson Auto, Kansas do a perfect replica of the originals, highly recommended. Call Steve – ph.# 620-241-7096, not cheap but perfect!
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01-22-2014, 05:41 PM | #5 |
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Location: Middlebury, CT
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
McPhearson Auto; McPhearson, Kansas makes the sub-rails. For the 36...each side is made of 4-5 pieces that you get to weld together. I used them on my drivers side... seem pretty good. I know that the owners name is Steve but can't locate his contact info right now. Maybe someone else will jump in.
I found this in an old Fordbarn post. Could not find web page. Contact name is Steve, shop phone 620.241.7096 I have purchased several items from him for my 34 roadster. Good luck!! Bruce/CT
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01-23-2014, 01:58 AM | #6 | |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
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Quote:
For some reason I'm a little nervous on this subrail project. This will be the first project like this I've tried to tackle. I found a few threads on the hamb where some guys did this and it didn't look to hard, just time consuming. I'm used to there being a little more left to work with than what I have. Both of my "B" post are not connected to anything. Thanks for the help guys. Mark |
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01-23-2014, 02:10 AM | #7 | |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
Quote:
I know the archs are different on a 3w but I guess the door size is the same as a 2-door sedan. I thought that the front door of a 4-door is a direct Bolt-on to the 5w coupe, Am I wrong? I hope not because I bought a front door from a 4-door sedan off eBay for my 5w, but it's not here yet. Thanks Mark |
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01-23-2014, 02:40 AM | #8 |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
The floor from your sedan will work .has the same floor.
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01-23-2014, 06:37 AM | #9 |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
Great information in here to help me out locating some rear floor boards for my 36 5W.
Thanks fellas! |
01-23-2014, 08:00 AM | #10 |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
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01-23-2014, 08:26 AM | #11 |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
This is all the modification needed to a 4 door door.
Last edited by uncle buck; 01-23-2014 at 08:33 AM. |
01-23-2014, 10:23 PM | #12 |
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Location: detroit mich
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
mark,
you will find all our stuff on www.emsautomotive.com lots of photos! call us if you have questions made in the usa by americans thanks to guys who bought our stuff in the past, the ems guy |
01-23-2014, 10:49 PM | #13 | |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
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Thanks Mark |
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01-23-2014, 10:52 PM | #14 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
I've rebuilt two 36's, a tudor sedan and 5 window coupe, used several EMS patch panels and not impressed with any-- lower quarter panels straight, not curved like original, different profile on lower body line; same with front lower cowl; lower front panel for rear fender not even close to a 36, had to section it in a couple places. Just my two cents. Rod
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01-24-2014, 07:32 PM | #15 |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
Is there a difference between 3w and 5w subrails?
EMS only lists 1 part number. Bradley floorpans does not include a tunnel. Anyone make a good repro ? |
01-24-2014, 08:16 PM | #16 |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
I agree with the EMS stuff being very flat as far as the patch panels. I bought the front cowl,rear quarter and the rockers.I may be selling some off it off. Don't get me wrong I"m glad someone makes something to use,but it would be nice not to have to borrow a English wheel to get some contour to the patchs. I would love to find a sedan that's been laying on it's roof or side in a dry climate to use as a donar!!!
Mark I don't think there's a enough metal to connect the outer quarter patch's to the subrail,I may be wrong. I can measure anything you need if you would like,I'm not at my shop right now. Joe |
01-24-2014, 11:21 PM | #17 | |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
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01-25-2014, 06:08 AM | #18 |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
Ted,
Your turn for a brain fade. While it is correct that the '35-'36 passenger cars share the same forward portion of the floor, the extreme rear of the floor in a cabriolet, coupe (both), and roadster is notably different than that of a convertible sedan, phaeton, and closed sedan (all types). (At least that is the case with North American-produced versions.) |
01-26-2014, 01:50 PM | #19 | |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
Quote:
thanks for your comments, there are important to us. i was trying to remind guys ( not bash anyone, sorry if i was overbearing) that ems manufactures in the usa , as there are not of lot of us left in the usa. we do a lot of exporting also. the ems automotive you know sells about 10% outside the usa, our oem division had a record year in 2013 and had about 80% of production exported. we do the best to copy the part correctly , bad sad to say sometimes it is just hard to find the a++ car or part, so we run with what we have which is usually the best we can find. even though we upgrade tooling procedure's on a regular basis the older stuff may or may not catch up depending on volume. still looking for a great set of 57 ford fenders again "uncle buck" thanks for your comments the ems guy |
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01-26-2014, 06:37 PM | #20 | |
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Re: 1935 1936 floor pan and subrails questions
Yes David I be leave you are right there are a differences between those models ,Or though when I built my coup (Canadian ) I did consider using a Flat back sedan floor which I felt would have done the job .with maybe a little reworking of the tail end ,the floor follows the frame and were the bumper mounts the spacing does not change .It appeared identical .It even had the blanked holes to take the coupe trunk gutter drain ,He asked if the forward part would work, I say most likely all of it if its a flat back.
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