The Ford Barn

wingski · 10-16-2017, 02:24 AM

Hey guys, I got the A running and idling. It was those dual carbs that was fouling everything up. However, I’ve got a new problem. I bought an after market fuel sediment bowl because the original had a patched crack in the top. I didn’t trust it being right above the exhaust pipe. The new one leaked around the bowl so I replaced the cork gasket with a rubber one. That stopped that leak, but it is still leaking around the fuel outlet fitting. I’ve tried everything from using gas-proof thread tape to tightening the fitting as much as I dare. It still leaks and I think there is a manfacturer’s flaw in that top.

Do any of you you have any idea on where to get a model A sediment bowl filter thingy? I have the glass bowl, but need to get another top and wire bowl holder. Even an old cruddy original would be better than what I have as long as the threads are good and the top not warped or cracked.

Have a great week,
Mike

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 10-16-2017, 06:48 AM

Mike, I suspect your issue is with the fuel line, -and more specifically with the ferrule(s). The teflon tape on the threads will do nothing as that is not the design. Start by checking to make sure the ferrule is crimped tightly onto the line without leaks around the seam. Then check the length of the protrusion of the tube thru the ferrule to ensure it is not too long which will hold the ferrule from the seat. Trim it back just a tad if need be to make sure. A way to test this is to tighten the line into the sediment bulb only (-without the opposite end connected to the carb.) and then with it tight, see if you can rotate the fuel line. Report back if this helps.

wingski · 10-16-2017, 11:13 AM

Brent, when I first discovered the leak, I changed the fitting to a one-piece brass fitting with ridges on the extension to lock the fuel line in place. I thought the old fitting was leaking from where the rubber line connected to the fitting because the old fitting was definitely screwed in tight enough. It wasn’t the extension that was leaking. It was leaking from around the threads in the new sediment bowl. I’ve tried everything to stop that leak. I’ve even put a brass washer between the brass fitting and where it screws into the top of the sediment bowl and really tightened the fitting. I cannot find a crack around the fitting, but there has to be one to cause this leak. If there was a way to bypass the sediment bowl, I’d bypass it. However, since the threads go through the firewall to hook up with the metal line under the dash, I’m stumped.

I forgot to thank all you guys for all the help you’ve given me to get the A started and running because I was so tired last night. I apologize. Thanks so much.

Mike

100IH · 10-16-2017, 12:37 PM

Its a good thing that there is no photo because the general consensus is that barbed fittings, rubber fuel hoses Are a liability, not a fix. The threads used with a crimped ferule are not tapered. The threads on a barbed fitting are tapered. Way too much invention to avoid getting the right parts. No wonder it's not working. Stay out of the junk drawer and open the catalogue.

Delrayhuh · 10-16-2017, 02:57 PM

Now that you have distorted the threads with a pipe thread just throw the thing away and start over. Your better off using Fuel Injection High Pressure Hose instead of the standard stuff with a squeeze clamp style inline filter.

wingski · 10-16-2017, 06:59 PM

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I agree, it’s ruined and I did it all by myself. In my defence, I tried to find ferrules and fittings that were not tapered and would compress a ferrule correctly and stop gas leaks. However, nothing like that is available where I live. I tried NAPA, hardware stores, and a builder’s supply with no luck. The one junkyard doesn’t have anything old enough. I tried hard to do this right, but I’m on my own. So, even if I order another sediment bowl filter, I’m not going to be able to find the correct fitting for the gas line.

Right now I would use a garden hose to get the A driveable, but it would probably leak as well. I’m not concerned about keeping every nut and bolt original. I just want to drive my car and have fun before the bad weather starts.

Mike

cpf240 · 10-16-2017, 07:27 PM

Why not order the original fuel line when you order the new fuel filter bowl?

SeaSlugs · 10-16-2017, 07:39 PM

yea agreed...
https://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=3888

whole $6... I bet just one of those barb fittings was $4+tax...

Wont be driving anything if the car catches fire

wingski · 10-16-2017, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

yea agreed...
https://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=3888

whole $6... I bet just one of those barb fittings was $4+tax...

Wont be driving anything if the car catches fire

It already did. The previous owner (#$%) had wrapped the exhaust pipe and muffler with heat insulating wrap. It looks like asbestoes with foil on the outside. I knew something wasn’t right about all that wrapping, but didn’t realize what until gas dripped on it and caught fire. I was in the right place at the right time and was able to blow it out without any damage being done. I don’t talk about this much because it was so horrifying. That was the closest I’ve ever come to losing a car and probably a garage. Every time I think about it, I cringe and say a few choice words about the previous owner. WOW! It was spooky!

And, give me a little slack guys. Because of the fact that there were dual carbs on this thing, there was no original fuel line. It was a plastic affair with a splitter and all the fittings were neopreme. I don’t like plastic and I prefer brass over neopreme, but I dealt with what I got.

By the way, I don’t have any catalogs. They’re on their way. It’s a little hard to order stuff when my hands are too dirty to touch the computer.

Still having a blast working on the A,
Mike

Tom Wesenberg · 10-17-2017, 12:44 AM

I think you said you installed the correct manifold and carb, so when the new sediment bulb and fuel line arrive, be sure to tighten the line nuts enough to snap the ferrule from the nut and squeeze it snug to the line with no more than 1/8" line past the ferrule. I put a few drop of oil on the ferrule and threads to help them tighten easily, and I also like to use the cast iron carb to tighten the nuts. It's safer than tightening to snap the ferrule in the aluminum sediment bowl.

I prefer the separate ferrule, but the new ones come as one piece that needs to be tightened to snap the ferrule loose from the nut.

Years ago I fixed the inside fuel line that leaked at the sediment bowl by tinning the ferrule with solder. Nothing else would stop the slow drip.

Craggles · 10-17-2017, 02:31 AM

Mine has the original pipe cut in the middle with some rubber pipe and hose clamps to fit an electric cut off, annoying to open the hood everytime to open/Close the fuel. Just a straight cut on the pipe and no leaks for me. I did give the thread into the sediment bowl a light wrap of tape as there was a leak there and is now all good. Maybe this isn't right but it worked for me.
I think you should go to the standard carb and send those twin carbs and manifold to me!!

10-16-2017, 02:24 AM	#1
wingski Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Cave Junction, Oregon Posts: 432	car runs but leaks gas Hey guys, I got the A running and idling. It was those dual carbs that was fouling everything up. However, I’ve got a new problem. I bought an after market fuel sediment bowl because the original had a patched crack in the top. I didn’t trust it being right above the exhaust pipe. The new one leaked around the bowl so I replaced the cork gasket with a rubber one. That stopped that leak, but it is still leaking around the fuel outlet fitting. I’ve tried everything from using gas-proof thread tape to tightening the fitting as much as I dare. It still leaks and I think there is a manfacturer’s flaw in that top. Do any of you you have any idea on where to get a model A sediment bowl filter thingy? I have the glass bowl, but need to get another top and wire bowl holder. Even an old cruddy original would be better than what I have as long as the threads are good and the top not warped or cracked. Have a great week, Mike

10-16-2017, 06:48 AM	#2
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,520	Re: car runs but leaks gas Mike, I suspect your issue is with the fuel line, -and more specifically with the ferrule(s). The teflon tape on the threads will do nothing as that is not the design. Start by checking to make sure the ferrule is crimped tightly onto the line without leaks around the seam. Then check the length of the protrusion of the tube thru the ferrule to ensure it is not too long which will hold the ferrule from the seat. Trim it back just a tad if need be to make sure. A way to test this is to tighten the line into the sediment bulb only (-without the opposite end connected to the carb.) and then with it tight, see if you can rotate the fuel line. Report back if this helps. __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .

10-16-2017, 11:13 AM	#3
wingski Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Cave Junction, Oregon Posts: 432	Re: car runs but leaks gas Brent, when I first discovered the leak, I changed the fitting to a one-piece brass fitting with ridges on the extension to lock the fuel line in place. I thought the old fitting was leaking from where the rubber line connected to the fitting because the old fitting was definitely screwed in tight enough. It wasn’t the extension that was leaking. It was leaking from around the threads in the new sediment bowl. I’ve tried everything to stop that leak. I’ve even put a brass washer between the brass fitting and where it screws into the top of the sediment bowl and really tightened the fitting. I cannot find a crack around the fitting, but there has to be one to cause this leak. If there was a way to bypass the sediment bowl, I’d bypass it. However, since the threads go through the firewall to hook up with the metal line under the dash, I’m stumped. I forgot to thank all you guys for all the help you’ve given me to get the A started and running because I was so tired last night. I apologize. Thanks so much. Mike

10-16-2017, 12:37 PM	#4
100IH Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: SW Idaho Posts: 970	Re: car runs but leaks gas Its a good thing that there is no photo because the general consensus is that barbed fittings, rubber fuel hoses Are a liability, not a fix. The threads used with a crimped ferule are not tapered. The threads on a barbed fitting are tapered. Way too much invention to avoid getting the right parts. No wonder it's not working. Stay out of the junk drawer and open the catalogue.

10-16-2017, 02:57 PM	#5
Delrayhuh BANNED Join Date: May 2017 Posts: 16	Re: car runs but leaks gas Now that you have distorted the threads with a pipe thread just throw the thing away and start over. Your better off using Fuel Injection High Pressure Hose instead of the standard stuff with a squeeze clamp style inline filter.

10-16-2017, 06:59 PM	#6
wingski Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Cave Junction, Oregon Posts: 432	Re: car runs but leaks gas Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I agree, it’s ruined and I did it all by myself. In my defence, I tried to find ferrules and fittings that were not tapered and would compress a ferrule correctly and stop gas leaks. However, nothing like that is available where I live. I tried NAPA, hardware stores, and a builder’s supply with no luck. The one junkyard doesn’t have anything old enough. I tried hard to do this right, but I’m on my own. So, even if I order another sediment bowl filter, I’m not going to be able to find the correct fitting for the gas line. Right now I would use a garden hose to get the A driveable, but it would probably leak as well. I’m not concerned about keeping every nut and bolt original. I just want to drive my car and have fun before the bad weather starts. Mike

10-16-2017, 07:27 PM	#7
cpf240 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Northern Idaho Posts: 282	Re: car runs but leaks gas Why not order the original fuel line when you order the new fuel filter bowl?

10-16-2017, 07:39 PM	#8
SeaSlugs Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Central, IL Posts: 3,968	Re: car runs but leaks gas yea agreed... https://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=3888 whole $6... I bet just one of those barb fittings was $4+tax... Wont be driving anything if the car catches fire __________________ 1929 Model AA - Need long splash aprons!

10-17-2017, 12:44 AM	#10
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: car runs but leaks gas I think you said you installed the correct manifold and carb, so when the new sediment bulb and fuel line arrive, be sure to tighten the line nuts enough to snap the ferrule from the nut and squeeze it snug to the line with no more than 1/8" line past the ferrule. I put a few drop of oil on the ferrule and threads to help them tighten easily, and I also like to use the cast iron carb to tighten the nuts. It's safer than tightening to snap the ferrule in the aluminum sediment bowl. I prefer the separate ferrule, but the new ones come as one piece that needs to be tightened to snap the ferrule loose from the nut. Years ago I fixed the inside fuel line that leaked at the sediment bowl by tinning the ferrule with solder. Nothing else would stop the slow drip.

10-17-2017, 02:31 AM	#11
Craggles Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Queensland Posts: 9	Re: car runs but leaks gas Mine has the original pipe cut in the middle with some rubber pipe and hose clamps to fit an electric cut off, annoying to open the hood everytime to open/Close the fuel. Just a straight cut on the pipe and no leaks for me. I did give the thread into the sediment bowl a light wrap of tape as there was a leak there and is now all good. Maybe this isn't right but it worked for me. I think you should go to the standard carb and send those twin carbs and manifold to me!!