engine removal

[Woodie1]

Has anyone removed the engine by removing the bolts in the clutch housing & leave the flywheel housing on the block? I'm getting lazy as I get older & don't want to remove the tranny if I don't have to. Thanks.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Woodie1

Has anyone removed the engine by removing the bolts in the clutch housing & leave the flywheel housing on the block? I'm getting lazy as I get older & don't want to remove the tranny if I don't have to. Thanks.

IMO removing the engine as you suggest may be easier but when reinstalling it will be more difficult because you have to line up the trans and clutch. I'm sure mine is just one of many opinions on the subject.

To answer your question, I have never done it that way but I have seen others remove just the engine. Good Luck.

[RawhideKid]

Originally Posted by Woodie1

Has anyone removed the engine by removing the bolts in the clutch housing & leave the flywheel housing on the block? I'm getting lazy as I get older & don't want to remove the tranny if I don't have to. Thanks.

I tell ya, do it now, or do it later. Removing the engine and trans together is sooo much easier than separately, but if you just pull the engine, you will find that out when you go to reinstall it. Besides, it is also the perfect time to check that U-joint.

[Dave in MN]

I remove engines all the time by removing the bolts between the bellhousing and the flywheel housing. I find it easier to put back in rather than joining up the u-joint. When re-installing, place two tapered 3/8" bolts (cut the head off a 3/8 x 3" bolt and grind the cut off side to a taper) in the flywheel housing just below each rear engine mount. The tapered bolt will aid lining everything up as it comes together. After the parts are together, install a couple of the 3/8" bolts in open holes and then remove your tapered bolts. Save the tapered bolts for the next time you need them.

[Art Newland]

When I put my engine in early this year, I left the transmission in place. I placed a "rachet strap" around the top of the car and then down around the transmission. This worked pretty good to help align the trans input shaft into the clutch.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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X2 what Dave just said.

[Woodie1]

I like your idea Dave. I just need to come up with a way to hold the tranny. Do you have much trouble lining up the clutch plate to the output shaft of the tranny?

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Woodie1

I like your idea Dave. I just need to come up with a way to hold the tranny. Do you have much trouble lining up the clutch plate to the output shaft of the tranny?

Hey Woodie,
I also agree with and practice what Dave has advised, because it makes 'things' easier, if the engine is all that you want to deal with.
I use blocks and / or hydraulic jack under trans to easily manage its position.

If you have help, one way to easily engage trans shaft into clutch disc gear, is to jack rear wheels off of floor (jack stands can be used to do this when starting/preparing to remove engine) . With rear wheels off of floor, you/or helper can slightly move rear wheel , which will move trans gear and I've used this to easily engage those gears.

I've found that lifting car and placing on jack stands makes my job easier, because the car sits tooo low for me to do any crawling around under it. Being stabbed by any/all of the cotter pins that ford buy in this car is not fun, IMO.

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by Woodie1

I like your idea Dave. I just need to come up with a way to hold the tranny. Do you have much trouble lining up the clutch plate to the output shaft of the tranny?

I use a floor jack to raise the transmission enough to be able to start the two tapered bolts into the holes in the bellhousing with the assembly slightly over the elevation of the rear engine mounts. (So the rear of the engine is about 1/2" higher than its final resting height.) I look at the margin between the bellhousing and the flywheel housing and adjust the height of the transmission or the engine to create an even margin all the way around and then wiggle on the engine while pushing back on it. Most of the time, the crankshaft needs to be rotated slightly to align the input shaft to the clutch disc to allow it to slip together. To rotate the crankshaft, use a wrench on the ratchet nut. When it is all in alignment, it usually slides in with minimal effort. A frame spreader is a must in most cases.
Good Day!

[Dick M]

Lining up the clutch disk splines with the input shaft splines can be difficult. Prior to engine installation I use some white typing correction fluid to mark the tips of 3 consecutive high splines on the input shaft and 3 consecutive marks on the clutch disk at the belly of the spline. It makes it easy to see when the clutch disk splines and the input shaft splines are lined up. You will be able to reach through the inspection hole in the clutch housing and turn the input shaft to line them up when the transmission is in neutral. I also use a slight spot of grease on the clutch splines for easy meshing of the splines. I have installed my engine by myself several times and used a floor jack to put the transmission in line with the engine. JMO

[J Wade]

If you had a multi disc clutch would it change how you pull and reinstall the engine

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by J Wade

If you had a multi disc clutch would it change how you pull and reinstall the engine

No, I still do it the same way. I like to R&R the engine by itself.
If the body is off the frame, then I'd do the engine and tranny together.

[George Miller]

I always leave the transmission in the car, unless it needs work. To line up the trans spline, just jack up one wheel. then turn it easy. you can feel it in gauge.
I use bolts with the heads cut off in the clutch housing and a jack under the trans. It is a pice of cake to get it in this way.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Woodie1

Has anyone removed the engine by removing the bolts in the clutch housing & leave the flywheel housing on the block? I'm getting lazy as I get older & don't want to remove the tranny if I don't have to. Thanks.

Yup, all the time.

[Synchro909]

I always leave the gearbox in the car and have no trouble lining things up again when the motor goes back in and I work alone.

[Terry, NJ]

Yes! I did! See my album "My Coupe" (red wheels) There a few pics of it.
Terry

Originally Posted by Woodie1

Has anyone removed the engine by removing the bolts in the clutch housing & leave the flywheel housing on the block? I'm getting lazy as I get older & don't want to remove the tranny if I don't have to. Thanks.

[jw hash]

I like pulling engine by itself, I pull the water pump off and leave the head light bar on. I also put two 3/8" X 3" studs that I sharpen the ends on in the flywheel housing when installing the engine to help line up