Cost to Build the "New Engine"

[Terry Burtz, Calif]

The cost to have a "New Engine" that is running can vary from less than $5000 to over $10,000 depending on what you want, your participation in the build process, and what parts you have to start with.

The hourly rate of a "Builder" is the same whether parts are being cleaned, parts are being ordered, a trip needs to be made to buy acetone at Home Depot, a final assembly is being made, or the "New Engine" is being run on a test stand.

To help evaluate your capabilities for participation in the building process, please go to www.burtzblock.com or www.modelaengine.com and read the "Builders Guide", "Doubling the Flow Area of a Model A Oil Pump", and "Installing an Oil Filter", and decide if you can do some of these tasks.

If you are unsure of your capabilities, please work with a "Builder" where you do the low-skill tasks and let the "Builder" use his knowledge to do the skilled tasks and final assembly. Doing this will save money.

If you want a "Builder" to deliver a complete new engine that has been run on a test stand and you supply no parts or labor, the cost will be expensive.

If you have a worn original engine that runs and needs a rebuild, and have the ability to deburr and assemble the "New Engine" by yourself, you can save money. Deburring is a 2 to 3-hour task, taking it to, and picking it up from a rebuilder with a dishwasher-style parts cleaner is 2 hours, painting is about an hour, and assembly is around 8 hours. Your head, water pump, distributor, oil pan, covers, lifters, camshaft, manifolds, and other small parts are reusable, and your cost will be as follows:
The cost of the "New Engine" kit is $4000.
The cost of "Dishwasher" cleaning is around $75
The cost of Egge 1104 pistons and Hastings 665 rings is $271.50
The cost of Snyder's A-6505-M modern valve set is $147.
The cost of Rock Auto Cleveite 745p bearing inserts is 12 x $6,02 = $72.24
The cost of Bratton's aluminum/steel timing gears is $115.90
The cost of Snyder's Head Stud/nut kit A-6064/66 is $53.95.
The Best 509G gasket is Snyder's B-6051-XO with a cost of $28.50
The other gaskets are Snyder's A-6008-CLH with a cost of $21.95
The cost of the "analog" relief valve from Burtz is $70
The cost of front and rear main seals from Burtz is $50
The cost of acetone, paint, and sealants is estimated at $40.00
Total cost $4946.04
Deduct $115.90 if the old timing gears are good.
Add $ and contact Dan McEachern (510) 532-8228 for better timing gears.
Deduct $70 for the analog relief valve and add $ if a Rotoshim, Stype, Nettles, Turlock, or Tim McMaster oil pump is used.
Save money by using the $1 self-serve car wash to clean your parts (not recommended)
Save money if stock pistons with wide rings are used (not optimal)
Save money if using a substitute valve kit (not optimal)
Save money by buying Clevite 745p bearing inserts on eBay (be sure to buy standard size inserts)


If you want to add an oil filter, you will need to add
JEGS 555-51715 Remote Filter Mount Kit for $52.66
Special bolts from Burtz are $30
Total cost $82.66
Deduct $82.66 and add $ if the Nettles or Kliesen oil filter is used


If you want more performance without a change in exterior appearance, you can add:
Our 6.5 head at a cost of $400
Our 30-pound flywheel at a cost of $375 (plus the cost of a 09A-7563 V-8 pressure plate)
Our .340 camshaft at a cost of $400
Total cost $1175


If you want even more performance and a change in external appearance is acceptable, higher compression heads, electronic ignition, electronic fuel injection, overhead valve heads, better carburation and manifolds, exhaust headers, and superchargers are available.

[jrelliott]

$5k for a good new engine is very reasonable. Would cost that if not more to get an old engine rebuilt without all the improvements yours has. Putting on the extras is an individual choice.

[nkaminar]

Terry is assuming that you use parts off the old engine, like the flywheel housing. If you don't have an old engine to take parts off or want to keep the old engine intact, then you will have to buy all those miscellaneous parts. For instance, I just bought a used flywheel housing from a friend for $20 but they are on ebay up to $150 and I think new ones are in the $500 range. If you want to buy all those odd parts then you may want to hit the swap meets or wait until a Model A owner has a garage sale.

As far as assembling the engine yourself, if you have experience with modern engines, then you can do it. The instructions that Terry puts out are very detailed. It also helps to ask for any tips from someone who has done it. The one hint that I can give is to use your brain. Check things like the fit of the flywheel housing to the block. A big gap at the rear cam bearing can lead to a big leak. If needed, have the flywheel housing machined.

[oldspert]

Read the information on modifying the oil pump for better oil flow. How much of the mods are really necessary for a stock engine? Maybe opening the oil exit holes to the larger size would be of benefit because the new oil pump I just purchased has two slots about 1/8" by 1/4" on each side. These look inadequate to me. I have access to a lathe to turn down the shaft to the smaller diameter, but is it necessary if no other mods are done to the lower chamber. I have built high performance Olds engines with modified oiling that are necessary for performance but stock engines do not need the same modifications. Is this true for Model A engines.

[emf]

I'll let Terry be the authority on the need for more oil, but I followed the oil pump guide to the letter and I am very happy with the results. Not only do I have adequate oil pressure, but the added volume of oil is a BIG plus. I had one of my oil filter fittings a bit loose and in less than 10 seconds, there was a quart of oil on the floor. My suggestion would be to modify the pump to give as much volume and pressure as you can.


Frank

[Gene F]

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Originally Posted by jrelliott

$5k for a good new engine is very reasonable. Would cost that if not more to get an old engine rebuilt without all the improvements yours has. Putting on the extras is an individual choice.

I agree, as I needed one not long ago. About the time that the Burtz was not quite ready yet.... Of course. I never seem to be lucky.

[ModelA29]

This isn't a project to do on the cheap. Spend the $ for the new head and cam. It also makes no sense to do the job without putting in a new clutch and flywheel (that was designed for this application). You'll be @ $6125 + about $220 for new clutch and pressure plate.