Water pump won't fit now.

[37 Coupe]

If it isn't one thing it is another.I go back to working on the engine ,take the water pump out I bought new and it will not go in the manifold,hung up somewhere where it cannot go all the way in One I took off was fine as far as fit,thought I was improving by buying a leakless pump. I cannot get through to Bratton's by phone and I doubt they will help it has been over a year and it is marked Bratton's but came from Mac's and they will not help.I swear I am going to get this running and stick with my '37.

[1931 flamingo]

Does the new pump have a collar with a set screw to adj end play?? Put the pumps side by side, what are the differences??
Paul in CT

[J Franklin]

I agree assess the differences and maybe let us know so we can help with a solution. Some pump shafts were made longer to be able to fit the clearance in a worn head stop.

[Gary WA]

shaft end may be to long hitting head? If so grind some off.

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by Gary WA

shaft end may be to long hitting head? If so grind some off.

If so you want to shoot for .006 clearance with the gasket in place. Usually 0 clearance without the gasket.

[Benson]

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PM sent

[37 Coupe]

Seriously a Model A needed shaft clearance inside? It looks to me like the impeller o.d is bigger than the recess for it.Iam talking about a good 3/16" gap when it will not go in any further.I will measure o.d tomorrow with my original. No phone anwering at Bratton's mayby because of the ice and storm.

[marty in Ohio]

We rebuilt a pump last week with parts from Snyders. In the kit it was explained that the new impeller shaft was 1/4 inch longer to take up the distance in the head from a worn boss. It said to grind the end till the pump fit tight to the head, then put on the gasket and install. Grind slow, check often.
Marty

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by marty in Ohio

We rebuilt a pump last week with parts from Snyders. In the kit it was explained that the new impeller shaft was 1/4 inch longer to take up the distance in the head from a worn boss. It said to grind the end till the pump fit tight to the head, then put on the gasket and install. Grind slow, check often.
Marty

Okay thanks for the info.You think that there would be instructions on this with a complete new pump.I am done for the day and will check lengths tomorrow.

[J Franklin]

Don't just check the OD, compare and measure the length of the shaft and shaft past the impeller to the casting. Compare everything and let us know what you find.

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

Don't just check the OD, compare and measure the length of the shaft and shaft past the impeller to the casting. Compare everything and let us know what you find.

Yes,I appreciate all the help and will check everything out tomorrow and report back. Mayby I can get a hold of Brattons and ask if this is the norm and why no instructions. It still looks to me like the leading edge of the impeller blades are hitting first.

[J Franklin]

Missing instructions could be an omission at the manufacture/packaging point.

[denniskliesen]

Mine barely touched the new 6:1 head I had installed. Had I known then what I know now I would have ground considerably more from the impeller. I know right where the rpm limit is otherwise it pushes coolant out the overflow. No it's not a radiator or overheat problem, it just plain pumps too much.

[eagle]

Originally Posted by denniskliesen

Mine barely touched the new 6:1 head I had installed. Had I known then what I know now I would have ground considerably more from the impeller. I know right where the rpm limit is otherwise it pushes coolant out the overflow. No it's not a radiator or overheat problem, it just plain pumps too much.

Must be quite a pump if it can pump out more than it can pull in from the bottom of the radiator!

[SSsssteamer]

Originally Posted by eagle

Must be quite a pump if it can pump out more than it can pull in from the bottom of the radiator!

The dynamics of this is that the water pump draws the water out of the block too fast and it creates a low pressure with in the block. Any water close to the boiling point, flashes into steam at the lower pressure and the steam then displaces the water in the block. Hence you have more water coming out of the water pump than is pulled in from the bottom inlet. It is the old school teaching that water boils at a lower temperature on the mountain top than the higher temperature that it boils at sea level. A pressurized radiator will very well raise the boiling point of the water in the system thereby preventing boiling over at the old lower water temperature.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by SSsssteamer

The dynamics of this is that the water pump draws the water out of the block too fast and it creates a low pressure with in the block. Any water close to the boiling point, flashes into steam at the lower pressure and the steam then displaces the water in the block. Hence you have more water coming out of the water pump than is pulled in from the bottom inlet. It is the old school teaching that water boils at a lower temperature on the mountain top than the higher temperature that it boils at sea level. A pressurized radiator will very well raise the boiling point of the water in the system thereby preventing boiling over at the old lower water temperature.

Finally a perfect explanation of what happens, as I know it can pump too much coolant. Mine also used to blow out the overflow pipe at speeds over 42 MPH. Antifreeze will also raise the boiling point. I always use 50% antifreeze, and that with the flush and thermostat have fixed my coolant problems.

[eagle]

Originally Posted by SSsssteamer

The dynamics of this is that the water pump draws the water out of the block too fast and it creates a low pressure with in the block. Any water close to the boiling point, flashes into steam at the lower pressure and the steam then displaces the water in the block. Hence you have more water coming out of the water pump than is pulled in from the bottom inlet. It is the old school teaching that water boils at a lower temperature on the mountain top than the higher temperature that it boils at sea level. A pressurized radiator will very well raise the boiling point of the water in the system thereby preventing boiling over at the old lower water temperature.

Exactly! However, a properly functioning radiator and a clean block will not reach the temps where flashover occurs. Higher water turbulance also leads to better heat transfer too.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by denniskliesen

Mine barely touched the new 6:1 head I had installed. Had I known then what I know now I would have ground considerably more from the impeller. I know right where the rpm limit is otherwise it pushes coolant out the overflow. No it's not a radiator or overheat problem, it just plain pumps too much.

I agree , my experience has been that the water pump just pumps too much . Snyders suggested years ago to modify the impeller . I grind the tips of the impeller blades . Snyders offers a modified impeller . This is pictured on page A-140 and they give the info that you need . You can get a good idea where to grind by looking at the pics if you decide to do it yourself .This mod will also slightly reduce some of the power that an over pumping water pump will draw .

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

I agree , my experience has been that the water pump just pumps too much . Snyders suggested years ago to modify the impeller . I grind the tips of the impeller blades . Snyders offers a modified impeller . This is pictured on page A-140 and they give the info that you need . You can get a good idea where to grind by looking at the pics if you decide to do it yourself .This mod will also slightly reduce some of the power that an over pumping water pump will draw .

Okay this tip really will help me and something I did not know.I see the page and picture of the cutdown impeller and I am going to use a Bergs brand new radiator which it looks like I need less pump volumn.Thank You very helpful.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

I agree , my experience has been that the water pump just pumps too much . Snyders suggested years ago to modify the impeller . I grind the tips of the impeller blades . Snyders offers a modified impeller . This is pictured on page A-140 and they give the info that you need . You can get a good idea where to grind by looking at the pics if you decide to do it yourself .This mod will also slightly reduce some of the power that an over pumping water pump will draw .

Any chance the old "roofing nail in the overflow tube" would help?


If no, why/downsides?