Water & bubbles through head stud nut threads

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Yes, that's what I had to do for a club member, but only two holes needed to be threaded and plugged.

As I recall it, 2 is correct but that was not a Russian B block. Maybe the Ruskies did it different!

[Mitch//pa]

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[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Try retorquing the head again. FWIW Nothing to lose.
Paul in CT

Yep ,, keep doing it until you get no more movement on the nuts.
Twice is not enough

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Yep ,, keep doing it until you get no more movement on the nuts.
Twice is not enough

I agree - twice is not enough. I've seen some on this forum say they check the tension at each service. I think that once no more movement can be achieved at a re-torque, that is probably more than is needed but good insurance. IMHO, unless there hes been some "event" like over heating, 3,000 miles is OK after no movement is felt at a tension check.

[Art Newland]

Just put a new head on, all new studs and nuts. Oozed up through the nuts for the first hour of run time. Sealed up all by it's self.

[Chippy Minton]

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Originally Posted by 62pan

I always thought that if you use a B block with an A head you should plug the four steam holes and use an A head gasket. If your leak continues I would research this.

I've got a B block with an A head and I was recommended to use a B gasket with no further work. It all works fine.

[29Phaeton]

Happy to report it stopped leaking! I pulled and sealed the stud with the distributor clamp (the easy one to get out) and the other two stud leaks went away over time. Re-torqued the stud nuts again, 4 moved but most were tight. Starts right up and idles nice, just waiting for a rebuilt carb to get here from FedEx and I'll be good to go!

[Mitch//pa]

Great report.
Technician in a can was not needed