One Head stud too short each bank follow-up

[rockfla]

So I posted a little over a week ago about one "short" head stud being too short to fully engage the head hex nut. Michael sent me a packet of about 6 more studs......NOTE on the ones he sent the amount of smooth shank compared to the "short" one I have....even though its only about 1/8th to 3/16 of an inch over all longer, the amount of smooth shank "MAY" be the difference maker??? I will report back soon!!!


Also, I looked around and decided to try these Mil Spec flat washers. I am quite happy with them as you can see a much tighter fit under the nut and less obtrusive looking.

[Bored&Stroked]

Yeah, I use the smaller diameter washers - though they come with my ARP studs. They don't protrude as much and don't have issues with the spot-facing on the aluminum heads. (Being too wide). Also, I like the Grade 8 or better mil-spec washers - as they don't gall like the Grade 5 stuff does. This gives a much more accurate torque reading.

[GB SISSON]

Those 'mill spec' washers in 1/2" would be just right on main bearing caps.

[Bored&Stroked]

GB: You should checkout the ARP stud kits for the mains - not too expensive and have really nice hardware. I think Red's Headers has them for around $50 or so?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by rockfla

So I posted a little over a week ago about one "short" head stud being too short to fully engage the head hex nut. Michael sent me a packet of about 6 more studs......NOTE on the ones he sent the amount of smooth shank compared to the "short" one I have....even though its only about 1/8th to 3/16 of an inch over all longer, the amount of smooth shank "MAY" be the difference maker??? I will report back soon!!!


Also, I looked around and decided to try these Mil Spec flat washers. I am quite happy with them as you can see a much tighter fit under the nut and less obtrusive looking.

[Seth Swoboda]

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I believe there is one longer stud for the firewall to ground strap.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Seth Swoboda

I believe there is one longer stud for the firewall to ground strap.

NOT on 1935. A little later though

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by rockfla

NOT on 1935. A little later though

Good to know. I learned something. I would guess that started in 1937??

[Tim Ayers]

Robert,

Did the new studs fix the problem?

[Bored&Stroked]

I was laughing this AM at the title of this thread ---> kind of a way of mentioning a friend who isn't the "brightest bulb in the pack":

"I know Ole Tom . . he is one head stud too short. . . ."

That might be my new saying for those who are mentally challenged . . . thanks Rock!

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Robert,

Did the new studs fix the problem?

I've drug up sorry the last couple of days, I will let you this evening OR first thing in the AM. Sorry!!! BUT I will let you know ASAP

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by rockfla

I've drug up sorry the last couple of days, I will let you this evening OR first thing in the AM. Sorry!!! BUT I will let you know ASAP

No rush on my end. Just curious.

B&S,

Without a doubt I've been accused of being one stud short of 24.

[rockfla]

Tim


I am pretty confident that it will work, IF you look at my picture and see where the stud bottoms out to the block, the smooth shank is about 3/8" longer than what I had (ie move the fine thread end out 3/8") SO that "should" (theoretically) give me the other 1/4"+ extra needed to full engage the threads of the hex nut.....BUT will confirm shortly for you.




Thanks to Michael as per usual, Third Gen Stepped up SO once again KUDO's to Michael

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

No rush on my end. Just curious.

B&S,

Without a doubt I've been accused of being one stud short of 24.

Tim: Only one stud short of 24 . . . you bragger you! LOL

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Tim: Only one stud short of 24 . . . you bragger you! LOL

Hahahaha

[rockfla]

Tim
The quick answer is YES, it worked perfectly. I forgot to take my phone with me to the shop, AND forgot to take the second stud with me as well SO I will post pictures first thing in the AM!!!

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Tim
The quick answer is YES, it worked perfectly. I forgot to take my phone with me to the shop, AND forgot to take the second stud with me as well SO I will post pictures first thing in the AM!!!

Excellent news!

[rockfla]

Here is the final pictures of the outcome. I had to use two jam nuts to install the new stud with the head on, my stud remover/installer would have grabbed onto the threads SO Plan B. Resealed the threads and anti-seized the shank and in they went. All is good

[Bored&Stroked]

Looking great . . . fire that baby up! LOL

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Looking great . . . fire that baby up! LOL

Thank's B&S, I appreciate the kind words and inspiration!! Its going to Norway SO I do have to figure a way to "Fire it Up" before I ship it.....WOULD make me feel a whole lot better knowing its tip top before it leaves me!!!!

[Bored&Stroked]

It will be a fine engine - you know what you're doing!

Given the type of studs you're using, definitely put it through a couple heat cycles and retorque the heads a couple times.

Also, you might consider running a bottle of Moroso Ceramic Seal through it on the test stand - can ensure that no studs leak and doesn't hurt anything. A good thing to ensure the customer doesn't have any drama.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

It will be a fine engine - you know what you're doing!

Given the type of studs you're using, definitely put it through a couple heat cycles and retorque the heads a couple times.

Also, you might consider running a bottle of Moroso Ceramic Seal through it on the test stand - can ensure that no studs leak and doesn't hurt anything. A good thing to ensure the customer doesn't have any drama.

Thanks once again for the Ceramic Seal tip, I will do that!!! I "leak-Loc'd" all the studs on installation BUT I like "added" protection!!!

[Tim Ayers]

Nice work, Robert.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Nice work, Robert.

Thank you very much Tim. Hope all is well with you my friend??? Take care

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Thank you very much Tim. Hope all is well with you my friend??? Take care

All is well. Hope the same with you. Learned something new. Never seen that Lube Lock product before. I like how it comes in a liquid. Paste products can be quite a mess. Have you used it before?

[rockfla]

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Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

All is well. Hope the same with you. Learned something new. Never seen that Lube Lock product before. I like how it comes in a liquid. Paste products can be quite a mess. Have you used it before?

My good friend here in town who does "flathead" builds and has been doing them for years turned me on to it. This, and my 4 cyl for my Proto-type WWII Jeep are the first two builds I have used it SO.......Ben learned of it years ago, his brother is a good customer of mine and more recently has focused his business, strictly on Military bases here in the southeast. Ben works for him "occasionally" and they were rebuilding some large heavy duty A/C compressors on a Navel Base and the compressor mfg spec'd this for the compressor studs. He was helping on that job and saw what the compressor did, how hot they ran and so forth and figured, Heck, that would work on Flathead head studs....SO he has been using it for several years and swears by it!!!!! I run a small bead of it around the first couple of threads and one bead running up the thread length just about 2/3 threads shy of the top, it forms a nice seal and bead at the surface and you can see it spread across the threads as you thread the stud in. Good stuff and comes highly recommended. IF you like I can snag you a tube from the A/C parts supply house across the street from me, that's where I get it....I have also turned a couple of "Jeep" buddies onto it (Amazon) and they are NOW using it!!!!

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by rockfla

My good friend here in town who does "flathead" builds and has been doing them for years turned me on to it. This, and my 4 cyl for my Proto-type WWII Jeep are the first two builds I have used it SO.......Ben learned of it years ago, his brother is a good customer of mine and more recently has focused his business, strictly on Military bases here in the southeast. Ben works for him "occasionally" and they were rebuilding some large heavy duty A/C compressors on a Navel Base and the compressor mfg spec'd this for the compressor studs. He was helping on that job and saw what the compressor did, how hot they ran and so forth and figured, Heck, that would work on Flathead head studs....SO he has been using it for several years and swears by it!!!!! I run a small bead of it around the first couple of threads and one bead running up the thread length just about 2/3 threads shy of the top, it forms a nice seal and bead at the surface and you can see it spread across the threads as you thread the stud in. Good stuff and comes highly recommended. IF you like I can snag you a tube from the A/C parts supply house across the street from me, that's where I get it....I have also turned a couple of "Jeep" buddies onto it (Amazon) and they are NOW using it!!!!

[rockfla]

Thank you Pete.

[rockfla]

LEAK LOCK


https://www.blueridgecompany.com/rad...aling-compound

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by rockfla

LEAK LOCK


https://www.blueridgecompany.com/rad...aling-compound

Leak Lock Joint Sealing Compound

Leak Lock is a state-of-the-art, resin-based, high strength, brushable paste pipe joint sealant consisting of chemically resistant film formers, plasticers, reinforcing fillers and solvents.

• Remains permanently flexible, adheres to internal surfaces and fills voids.
• Suitable for all metal or plastic materials.
• Ideal for joining dissimilar metals and materials.
• Prevents loosening of plugs and fittings even in applications subject to extreme vibration.
• Effective in temperatures from -200F (-93C) to 400F (204C).
• Withstands full vacuums and pressures to 10,000 PSI.
• Perfect for threaded joints, flanged joints, gasket surfaces and all mating surfaces where a fluid-tight seal is required.
• Seals a broad range of chemicals, petroleum products, natural and manufactured gases, steam, water, air, etc. No other sealant offers the application range of Leak Lock.

[Als48]

I'm pleasantly surprised to hear the name, Leak Lock brought to our attention. I remember testing that product for use in the Chemical plant where I worked for 34 years. Our lab tested Leak Lock for use in elevated temperatures and various types of systems, such as lube oil, freon coolants and antifreeze agents used in the cooling water systems. If I remember correctly, it has a fluorocarbon filler (Teflon) and was found to be very good in most of our plant systems for sealing threaded and flanged joints. A very good product, in my opinion. Of course I've been retired for over 20 years, and haven't heard that name since retirement. Probably a DuPont product or derivation.

Al Hook

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Als48

I'm pleasantly surprised to hear the name, Leak Lock brought to our attention. I remember testing that product for use in the Chemical plant where I worked for 34 years. Our lab tested Leak Lock for use in elevated temperatures and various types of systems, such as lube oil, freon coolants and antifreeze agents used in the cooling water systems. If I remember correctly, it has a fluorocarbon filler (Teflon) and was found to be very good in most of our plant systems for sealing threaded and flanged joints. A very good product, in my opinion. Of course I've been retired for over 20 years, and haven't heard that name since retirement. Probably a DuPont product or derivation.

Al Hook

Al
That is a great testimony and endorsement, thank you for sharing......B&S Tim and all other following (From a parallel (of sorts) post here on the barn)
Make sure you clean the threads really good, I used a thread chaser along with carb/brake cleaner with a shop towel. THEN when time came to actually install the studs, I took another shop rag and the carb cleaner with the straw and partially stuck the shop rag into each whole and cleaned with the carb cleaner again to make sure I had a good clean surface. Just an FYI and best performance of the leak lock