Rewired my truck?

[IrishHills]

and used the light harness for Snyders, the one for single headlight bulbs and cowl lights. Here is the problem, only two indents, off-one-two. I thought it needs 3, one for dims one for brights and one for cowl lights??

Also wondering why I'm not getting email notification? what do I look for in my user cp?

Thanks for any thoughts for a new guy.. Ray

[Tom Wesenberg]

What year truck? If it's your red avitar truck, then you should have a switch contact ring with 3 bumps to match the switch plate on Snyder's harness. You should have 4 positions, with one of then being OFF. 7 o'clock should be parking lights. 6 o'clock should be off. 5 o'clock should be dim, and 4 o'clock should be bright.

With the switch handle pointed straight down at 6 o'clock, the spyder on the bottom end of the horn rod should be at 12 and 6 o'clock.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by IrishHills

and used the light harness for Snyders, the one for single headlight bulbs and cowl lights. Here is the problem, only two indents, off-one-two. I thought it needs 3, one for dims one for brights and one for cowl lights??

Also wondering why I'm not getting email notification? what do I look for in my user cp?

Thanks for any thoughts for a new guy.. Ray

This might help. Look at the light switch in the upper right corner.

Wiring

[pdora]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

What year truck? If it's your red avitar truck, then you should have a switch contact ring with 3 bumps to match the switch plate on Snyder's harness. You should have 4 positions, with one of then being OFF. 7 o'clock should be parking lights. 6 o'clock should be off. 5 o'clock should be dim, and 4 o'clock should be bright.

With the switch handle pointed straight down at 6 o'clock, the spyder on the bottom end of the horn rod should be at 12 and 6 o'clock.

I'm trying to work out this same thing with my 1930 Tudor. It was screwed up by an unknown previous owner.

Does the switch position arrangement described above apply to all models?

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by pdora

I'm trying to work out this same thing with my 1930 Tudor. It was screwed up by an unknown previous owner.

Does the switch position arrangement described above apply to all models?

Yes for 1929 - 1931 I don't know the cut off for the 1928 harness.

6 o'clock should be off. 7 o'clock should be parking lights. 5 o'clock should be dim, and 4 o'clock should be bright.

[pdora]

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Thanks. I will straighten this out posthaste.

[IrishHills]

Thanks for the replies guys, my harness only has 2 wires to each headlight, hence single bulb harness, no parking lights and no 7 o'clock position, and yes it's a 31. Also on the diagram they sent me the switch has brights, dims and cowl lights (instead of parking lights)

update: just talked to Snyders and he said I should have the 7 oclock position (cowl lights), only thing he could figure is the switch could have been changed in the past to an early 28 two position switch.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Is your horn rod spider in the correct position? Also the alignment notch goes down for the light switch assembly. I've had to change some after someone put the notch up on the steering column part.

With the switch assembly off, you should have full rotational movement of the light switch handle. So, if you can't move the handle to 7 o'clock then something has to be wrong with the alignment of the rod spider or switch assembly.

[IrishHills]

Thanks Tom, I'll re-check, but the off is at 6 oclock and I have 5 and 4 oclock?

update: well I have 7 oclock, all it took was a litte wiggle on the switch and working the horn control at the same time, must have a burr on the contact, after working it back and forth it's a little better, but still clicks harder then 5 and 4 oclock, maybe it will work in .. thanks for all the help.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by IrishHills

Thanks Tom, I'll re-check, but the off is at 6 oclock and I have 5 and 4 oclock?

update: well I have 7 oclock, all it took was a litte wiggle on the switch and working the horn control at the same time, must have a burr on the contact, after working it back and forth it's a little better, but still clicks harder then 5 and 4 oclock, maybe it will work in .. thanks for all the help.

On some of the repro switch plates I smooth over the edges around each of the dimples because I have also found they lock into the dimples too much. I also put some lube on the contacts to make it smoother switching.

[IrishHills]

Thanks again Tom.