More Stud Hole Questions

[Ross6860]

I didn't want to add to the other thread, so I started this one.

The reason I'm asking I believe the donor block I have may be scrap. Thankfully it was almost free. Several studs are broken off in the block (some by me, some were already that way), and several of the broken studs were torched out (poorly, not by me).

Is there enough material around the original stud hole to install a larger size stud? Has anyone ever made a "stepped" stud for this application (larger at the base, original size on top)?

Lastly, can the stud holes be repaired by cold-welding or welding and then re-drilled?

I know it sounds like a lot of work. Maybe better off just finding another engine, but if the rest of the block is good I hate to discard it.

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by Ross6860

I didn't want to add to the other thread, so I started this one.

The reason I'm asking I believe the donor block I have may be scrap. Thankfully it was almost free. Several studs are broken off in the block (some by me, some were already that way), and several of the broken studs were torched out (poorly, not by me).

Is there enough material around the original stud hole to install a larger size stud? Has anyone ever made a "stepped" stud for this application (larger at the base, original size on top)?

Lastly, can the stud holes be repaired by cold-welding or welding and then re-drilled?

I know it sounds like a lot of work. Maybe better off just finding another engine, but if the rest of the block is good I hate to discard it.

Hi Ross, most of the cast-in bosses below the threads (we're talking head bolts here) are able to hold a 3/8" NPT pipe plug (if this the only choice left), and return to the original 7/16" coarse thread.

I've done numerous repairs using this procedure. Never a single issue/problem!

I have a 59A heading to the Bridgeport for this very repair, including drilling out 4 broken studs. With the Bridgeport in play I don't need any guide or pilot holes, the block is anchored solid. (Read the P.S. for more on this)

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. One very important part of this method is maintaining the location for the most part. You don't want the original hole totally relocated. If you have limited tools for this deal it is best to use the cylinder, bolted in position, as the "guide" to keep the holes where they belong. I don't recommend welding if possible, we have in the past, but that person, Al Mathon, who was doing our cast-iron welding, is no longer with us, he's passed on!

Double P.S. For all that contacted me, you need some patience, I am in the middle of setting up a program dedicated to the Flatheads. The responses were sort of overwhelming to say the least. I "owe" Ol' Ron one over here!

[Ross6860]

Originally Posted by GOSFAST

Hi Ross, most of the cast-in bosses below the threads (we're talking head bolts here) are able to hold a 3/8" NPT pipe plug (if this the only choice left), and return to the original 7/16" coarse thread.

I've done numerous repairs using this procedure. Never a single issue/problem!

I have a 59A heading to the Bridgeport for this very repair, including drilling out 4 broken studs. With the Bridgeport in play I don't need any guide or pilot holes, the block is anchored solid. (Read the P.S. for more on this)

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. One very important part of this method is maintaining the location for the most part. You don't want the original hole totally relocated. If you have limited tools for this deal it is best to use the cylinder, bolted in position, as the "guide" to keep the holes where they belong. I don't recommend welding if possible, we have in the past, but that person, Al Mathon, who was doing our cast-iron welding, is no longer with us, he's passed on!

Double P.S. For all that contacted me, you need some patience, I am in the middle of setting up a program dedicated to the Flatheads. The responses were sort of overwhelming to say the least. I "owe" Ol' Ron one over here!

The shop I use didn't even blink when I took my block in. They looked it over, showed me some cracks between studs that they said wouldn't be a problem (since most of them appear to crack there, according to them, anyhow).

They actually had a 59AB on a stand ready for assembly when I went in today. Merc crank, 'lunium heads, etc.

Small family run shop. They have been storing my 351C block and heads for over a year. Never even billed me for the work done so far (I told them to bill me so we can settle up before they work on the flathead). I always volunteer to get it out of their shop, but they say it's better off there in a dry, heated shop than in my garage. You don't find that a lot of places these days.

I'll at least let them clean and check the block, remove the studs and fix the bad holes, deck it, etc.

[texas webb]

That's some real folks there.

[Mike in AZ]

sounds like a great shop.....good luck....Mike

[Ol' Ron]

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Gary, you don't owe me a thing. I call em the way I see em. You did a giid job and I said so. I don't agree with wverything, but it was nice to do business with you. Good luck.

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Gary, you don't owe me a thing. I call em the way I see em. You did a giid job and I said so. I don't agree with wverything, but it was nice to do business with you. Good luck.

Hi Ron, don't underestimate your "power of persuasion" up here, I certainly don't after this past week.

One more item while I have your attention, do you (or anyone else up here) know of anyone in the past who has attempted to do a hydraulic lifter setup for these Flatties? Keeping in mind I'm aware of the lack of oil passages. I have an idea, but I will need to speak with the guys that make the Johnson tappets first.

I have a very viable plan, just don't know tonight if it would be "cost-effective" or not? There seems to be many issues up here about valve lash. Be nice to just drop in some lifters and go.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I'm 99% sure this could be done, incorporating some bushed lifter bores and minor plumbing.

[flathead4rd]

RE: Hydraulic lifters. You might try to get in touch with Mark Kirby former owner of of Motor City Flathead. I think he can be reached through Shadow Rods in Saginaw, Mich. He's the guy with the all aluminum flathead block. Seems like the last time I spoke with him he was talking about a hydraulic valve lifter system. You might also contact Phil Goller in Defiance, Ohio 419-428-2271 who is also connected with Motorcity Flathead.