The Ford Barn

draggin49 · 04-12-2018, 05:06 AM

I think my radiator in my 1932 v8 roadster may be on its way out . I daily drive this car so having the cooling system working really well is definitely important.

I am not sure if this is the original radiator that came with the car or a replacement. Does the original ford radiator cap only work with the original radiator from the factory or can that original cap still be used on an aftermarket radiators ??? My car has the original radiator cap in place .

Is there a huge performance gap between the stock radiator that came with the v8s in 1932 in comparison to the current aftermarket radiator options??

This is my first early Ford so I’m new to a lot of this stuff. Is it possible to keep a flathead running cool without using an electric fan??
My 32 is 100% original and I usually run it with the hood off and an electric fan would stick out like a sore thumb .

Is there a big difference in the performance of aftermarket water pumps vs the original factory water pumps from 1932 ??

Just trying to see what my options are to make this car better handle the daily driving it will regularly see . Look forward to your input/suggestions

JSeery · 04-12-2018, 07:34 AM

Starting with the water pumps, yes, there are high flow water pumps. Skip is the supplier. BrassWorks can supply an original style radiator. They can be custom built and be an exact copy of the originals. Because of the price of material and the labor involved a quality radiator is going to cost more than an aluminum one. IF you have a good radiator shop near by, they might be able to recore your existing radiator. Or if it is in good shape it may just need to be "rodded" out.

http://www.fordcollector.com/water_pumps.htm

http://www.thebrassworks.net/shop/Re...ab3bba40eb617e

G.M. · 04-12-2018, 08:00 AM

First of all make sure the radiator is filled up into the filler neck.
It takes the full 22 quarts to properly cool. Filled you will probly
loose coolant out the over flow. Put a plastic or rubber hose over
the bottom of the over flow tube and run it into a plastic bottle
sitting on the left frame rail. Left the top of the bottle open. The
coolant will get pushed into the bottle. The top being open will
allow the coolant to be sucked back into the system as the
engine temp go's below 155. At 155 a vacume is formed in the
engine which sucks the coolant back in. The other solution is
Skips 3 lb check valve on the bottom of the over flow tube.
This keeps the water in below 210 degrees. The valve must be
flushed with clean water at least once a year. Also the cap must
seal good, a new red rubber gasket works. G.M.

Kube · 04-12-2018, 08:19 AM

I am firmly in the camp that one does not need overflow gadgets, high pressure caps nor high volume pumps to allow your engine to cool properly.

While I have a deep respect for the rebuilding that George "Skip" Haney does, I've yet to see any difference made on a "good " engine. I have little doubt that if the engine block is not clean and perhaps the radiator plugged to a degree, his high volume pumps along with "gadgets" may aid in masking the real issues.

As it sounds like your engine, etc. is "good" I would suggest getting your radiator cored. I've have heard the "reasonably priced" aluminum radiators are "reasonably decent" in quality.
So, if "decent" is what you are happy with, go for it.
Otherwise, spend a few hundred dollars more and get the best quality available. IE: either Brassworks or a quality (re)core.
I have my 39 - 40 radiators cored near me at a cost of about $500. Not cheap necessarily, but they are beautiful, correct and very dependable.

philipswanson · 04-13-2018, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kube

I am firmly in the camp that one does not need overflow gadgets, high pressure caps nor high volume pumps to allow your engine to cool properly.

Couldn't agree more! Hey, the reason we run thermostats is to keep the water from circulating too fast and not letting the radiator cool properly. Now we are going against that and adding water pumps that circulate faster??? Which is it, you can't have it both ways.

jimTN · 04-12-2018, 08:47 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Overflow "gagets" on non pressurized radiators IMHO is a must. This is because the water pumps push fluid thru at a fast rate and if there is the slightest restriction, fluid will go out the overflow. I have one of Skips overflow devices on my 32, 34 and a 29 Packard. Cured loss of fluid on all and temp stays where it should be. I will say that age and exposing to salt causes the fins to corrode around the tubes and lose conductivity. New cores are a good thing also. I also run thermostats in my cars.

TJ · 04-12-2018, 09:02 AM

You might also take a look at US Radiator as I believe they are in the L.A. area. They have both aluminum and copper/brass radiators. If you want a quality recore call Beko radiator in Concord, California, Ph# 925-671-2975 and talk with Johnny. They do excellent work on recoring.

draggin49 · 04-12-2018, 02:30 PM

I had been wondering why there wasn’t an overflow and if I should put something on the end of the line running out from the radiator down to near the frame. I had noticed it pushing fluid out from there.
If I can have somewhere re-core the original radiator to have the cooling capacity of an aftermarket one that’d be great . Is there a specific way that I can determine if my current radiator is the original one from the factory or if it’s a reproduction one that one of the cars previous owners may have installed ??

G.M. · 04-12-2018, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by draggin49

I had been wondering why there wasn’t an overflow and if I should put something on the end of the line running out from the radiator down to near the frame. I had noticed it pushing fluid out from there.
If I can have somewhere re-core the original radiator to have the cooling capacity of an aftermarket one that’d be great . Is there a specific way that I can determine if my current radiator is the original one from the factory or if it’s a reproduction one that one of the cars previous owners may have installed ??

Read my post above and follow the instructions before you waste a lot
of money. G.M.

draggin49 · 04-12-2018, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G.M.

Read my post above and follow the instructions before you waste a lot
of money. G.M.

Thanks G.M. ,
I maneuvered the overflow metal hose into a mounted bottle like you mentioned
. I used a bottle that is 1 qt in size . Do I need to move the bottle high enough so that the metal overflow pipe is all the way to the bottom of the bottle ?
Right now the bottle is a little under under half full but the metal overflow pipe is around 2 inches above the top of the coolant sitting in the bottle

G.M. · 04-12-2018, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by draggin49

Thanks G.M. ,
I maneuvered the overflow metal hose into a mounted bottle like you mentioned
. I used a bottle that is 1 qt in size . Do I need to move the bottle high enough so that the metal overflow pipe is all the way to the bottom of the bottle ?
Right now the bottle is a little under under half full but the metal overflow pipe is around 2 inches above the top of the coolant sitting in the bottle

The bottle sitting on the top of the frame is high enough. You want a rubber or plastic hose on the bottom end of the over flow tube at the bottom of the radiator. Cut the bottom of the hose on an angle so the bottom of the bottle don't shut the flow off. There has to be air getting into the top of the bottle so the liquid can syphon back into the radiator as the temp drops below 155.
A compression leak in the engine can push coolant. G.M.

draggin49 · 04-12-2018, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G.M.

The bottle sitting on the top of the frame is high enough. You want a rubber or plastic hose on the bottom end of the over flow tube at the bottom of the radiator. Cut the bottom of the hose on an angle so the bottom of the bottle don't shut the flow off. There has to be air getting into the top of the bottle so the liquid can syphon back into the radiator as the temp drops below 155.
A compression leak in the engine can push coolant. G.M.

Thanks for clarifying the details . I will add the hose and cut it at the angle like you mentioned .i haven’t added the hose yet but I went for a drive an hour ago and came home and the radiator cap wasn’t super hot like the last time I drove it.

DavidG · 04-12-2018, 03:42 PM

The way to spot an original radiator is to look at the fins, front and back sides. The back side fins will be straight. The front side fins will have a little dip in the centers of the fins between each vertical tube.

51504bat · 04-12-2018, 08:25 PM

Don't know where you are in SoCal but Fontana Radiator can either rod out your radiator or recore it. They did a radiator on a '40 Ford big truck I had as well as repair and rework the radiator on my '39 p/u. I'd give them a call. JMO
http://fontanaradiator.net/
Phone: 909-822-8737 | Toll Free: 800-430-7234 | Fax: 909-854-3970
E-mail: [email protected]
Fontana Radiator
17635 Arrow Blvd.
Fontana, CA 92335

tubman · 04-13-2018, 10:37 AM

I hate to be contrary, but that isn't the reason that Ford used thermostats in their engines.

draggin49 · 04-13-2018, 08:22 PM

Went for a drive after attaching the rubber hose to the metal overflow pipe so that it’s all the way to the bottom of the overflow bottle. Ran fine on my 30 min drive to Target . Driving home after about 20 min, suddenly coolant sprayed from out the back side of the radiator cap all over my windshield/cowl . I stopped at next gas station and cleaned my windshield /cowl the best I could . I have a 1 qt bottle as the overflow container and when I got home it was probably more than half full of coolant

Tinker · 04-13-2018, 08:51 PM

Sooo... what temp was it running? Get a cheap infrared gun at home depot and check things out. You can even move along the radiator and see if there are blocked/gunked up spots in the radiator.

Don't believe the hype. Flatheads do run cool, I run stats to keep my temp up in mn, but I ran no stats in florida, even there I never had an issue with cooling or puking coolant. Sometimes a radiator needs a recore or rodding after 80 yrs, it's not cheap but it'll be the best invest in my opinion (new or recored). You can't expect a 80+ yr old radiator to preform like a new one. A nice clean block helps a ton too, which can be done fairly well by removing the heads. But if you still don't believe me that a flathead can't run cool by design

... do a search for Ol'Henry here, he drives his flathead up and down mountains for hundreds of miles.

or maybe them moonshine runners.

If your running a basically stock motor, remember the coolant will find it's level. It will expand and if your not overheating then don't overfill it or keep filling it to the top.

Don't trust the gauge. What's nice about the infrared temp gun, you can check your motor against the dash gauge for accuracy or tell when your grilled cheese is done. Might work on a girlfriend or wife also, but I'm not encouraging that.

.

draggin49 · 04-13-2018, 09:55 PM

Thanks for the advice Tinker . My roadster doesn’t have a working temp gauge so I’m gonna buy the infrared gun so I can get a good accurate reading . I agree , if this is an original radiator I will have it re done, if it’s just some aftermarket one that some previous owner installed I think I will not bother re-doing it and just get a brand new one.
Anyone have any suggestions on a good brand of radiator cap that has a good seal , I looked over the current radiator cap and it looks to be an aftermarket one done to look the same as the original

Tinker · 04-13-2018, 10:03 PM

I can't help you with the rad cap, not sure if they pressurized them in 32? My model a wasn't but my 36 is a 4# cap. As JSeery mentioned Brassworks is really a fine product if you go aftermarket.

I recored my 36&38 and holding okay so far. But for me it wasn't a whole lot cheaper then a new brassworks. Just a decision that I made to keep most of the originality as I could. Find a very good shop if you do.

Also I believe the whole front end is setup off the radiator, at least in 36/38 it is. So might be important to research the right move.

.

Bored&Stroked · 04-14-2018, 08:50 AM

On my 32, I run a 284 cubic inch 42 Merc engine - with lots of performance mods and therefore probably twice the original horsepower (which means about twice the heat). I had my stock 32 radiator recored (expensive work) - but I wanted the exactly correct tanks, sides, etc . . . so I got what I wanted, but it was about $900 to do it. I have updated water pumps from Skip - great product if you're running a 37-48 engine. I'm not aware of any special pump impellers for the earlier "water pump in head" engines - and the later 49-53 pumps typically had good vanes/impellers anyway. With his pumps, a LOT of water moves through the radiator and it will overflow with a stock cap and it filled like one would think it needs to be filled. So - I don't fill it all the way up and I let it seek the right level itself . . . seems to work fine. The alternate approach would be to get the original radiator cap to tightly seal and use that little in-line pressure widget that Skip sells - along with an overflow bottle. And as others have said - you can't go wrong with the guys at Brassworks - top notch products and workmanship.

04-12-2018, 05:06 AM	#1
draggin49 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Southern California Posts: 212	Radiator questions ... I think my radiator in my 1932 v8 roadster may be on its way out . I daily drive this car so having the cooling system working really well is definitely important. I am not sure if this is the original radiator that came with the car or a replacement. Does the original ford radiator cap only work with the original radiator from the factory or can that original cap still be used on an aftermarket radiators ??? My car has the original radiator cap in place . Is there a huge performance gap between the stock radiator that came with the v8s in 1932 in comparison to the current aftermarket radiator options?? This is my first early Ford so I’m new to a lot of this stuff. Is it possible to keep a flathead running cool without using an electric fan?? My 32 is 100% original and I usually run it with the hood off and an electric fan would stick out like a sore thumb . Is there a big difference in the performance of aftermarket water pumps vs the original factory water pumps from 1932 ?? Just trying to see what my options are to make this car better handle the daily driving it will regularly see . Look forward to your input/suggestions

04-12-2018, 08:19 AM	#4
Kube Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wisconsin, USA Posts: 9,022	Re: Radiator questions ... I am firmly in the camp that one does not need overflow gadgets, high pressure caps nor high volume pumps to allow your engine to cool properly. While I have a deep respect for the rebuilding that George "Skip" Haney does, I've yet to see any difference made on a "good " engine. I have little doubt that if the engine block is not clean and perhaps the radiator plugged to a degree, his high volume pumps along with "gadgets" may aid in masking the real issues. As it sounds like your engine, etc. is "good" I would suggest getting your radiator cored. I've have heard the "reasonably priced" aluminum radiators are "reasonably decent" in quality. So, if "decent" is what you are happy with, go for it. Otherwise, spend a few hundred dollars more and get the best quality available. IE: either Brassworks or a quality (re)core. I have my 39 - 40 radiators cored near me at a cost of about $500. Not cheap necessarily, but they are beautiful, correct and very dependable. __________________ "I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you".

04-12-2018, 08:47 AM	#6
jimTN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Powell, TN Posts: 2,509	Re: Radiator questions ... Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Overflow "gagets" on non pressurized radiators IMHO is a must. This is because the water pumps push fluid thru at a fast rate and if there is the slightest restriction, fluid will go out the overflow. I have one of Skips overflow devices on my 32, 34 and a 29 Packard. Cured loss of fluid on all and temp stays where it should be. I will say that age and exposing to salt causes the fins to corrode around the tubes and lose conductivity. New cores are a good thing also. I also run thermostats in my cars.

04-12-2018, 09:02 AM	#7
TJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Napa,California Posts: 6,047	Re: Radiator questions ... You might also take a look at US Radiator as I believe they are in the L.A. area. They have both aluminum and copper/brass radiators. If you want a quality recore call Beko radiator in Concord, California, Ph# 925-671-2975 and talk with Johnny. They do excellent work on recoring.

04-12-2018, 02:30 PM	#8
draggin49 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Southern California Posts: 212	Re: Radiator questions ... I had been wondering why there wasn’t an overflow and if I should put something on the end of the line running out from the radiator down to near the frame. I had noticed it pushing fluid out from there. If I can have somewhere re-core the original radiator to have the cooling capacity of an aftermarket one that’d be great . Is there a specific way that I can determine if my current radiator is the original one from the factory or if it’s a reproduction one that one of the cars previous owners may have installed ??

04-12-2018, 03:42 PM	#13
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,110	Re: Radiator questions ... The way to spot an original radiator is to look at the fins, front and back sides. The back side fins will be straight. The front side fins will have a little dip in the centers of the fins between each vertical tube.

04-12-2018, 08:25 PM	#14
51504bat Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: SoCal-Redlands Posts: 3,036	Re: Radiator questions ... Don't know where you are in SoCal but Fontana Radiator can either rod out your radiator or recore it. They did a radiator on a '40 Ford big truck I had as well as repair and rework the radiator on my '39 p/u. I'd give them a call. JMO http://fontanaradiator.net/ Phone: 909-822-8737 \| Toll Free: 800-430-7234 \| Fax: 909-854-3970 E-mail: [email protected] Fontana Radiator 17635 Arrow Blvd. Fontana, CA 92335 __________________ Making the simple complicated for over 30 years.

04-13-2018, 10:37 AM	#15
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,334	Re: Radiator questions ... I hate to be contrary, but that isn't the reason that Ford used thermostats in their engines. Last edited by tubman; 04-13-2018 at 12:17 PM.

04-13-2018, 08:22 PM	#16
draggin49 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Southern California Posts: 212	Re: Radiator questions ... Went for a drive after attaching the rubber hose to the metal overflow pipe so that it’s all the way to the bottom of the overflow bottle. Ran fine on my 30 min drive to Target . Driving home after about 20 min, suddenly coolant sprayed from out the back side of the radiator cap all over my windshield/cowl . I stopped at next gas station and cleaned my windshield /cowl the best I could . I have a 1 qt bottle as the overflow container and when I got home it was probably more than half full of coolant

04-13-2018, 08:51 PM	#17
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,063	Re: Radiator questions ... Sooo... what temp was it running? Get a cheap infrared gun at home depot and check things out. You can even move along the radiator and see if there are blocked/gunked up spots in the radiator. Don't believe the hype. Flatheads do run cool, I run stats to keep my temp up in mn, but I ran no stats in florida, even there I never had an issue with cooling or puking coolant. Sometimes a radiator needs a recore or rodding after 80 yrs, it's not cheap but it'll be the best invest in my opinion (new or recored). You can't expect a 80+ yr old radiator to preform like a new one. A nice clean block helps a ton too, which can be done fairly well by removing the heads. But if you still don't believe me that a flathead can't run cool by design ... do a search for Ol'Henry here, he drives his flathead up and down mountains for hundreds of miles. or maybe them moonshine runners. If your running a basically stock motor, remember the coolant will find it's level. It will expand and if your not overheating then don't overfill it or keep filling it to the top. Don't trust the gauge. What's nice about the infrared temp gun, you can check your motor against the dash gauge for accuracy or tell when your grilled cheese is done. Might work on a girlfriend or wife also, but I'm not encouraging that. . Last edited by Tinker; 04-13-2018 at 09:43 PM.

04-13-2018, 09:55 PM	#18
draggin49 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Southern California Posts: 212	Re: Radiator questions ... Thanks for the advice Tinker . My roadster doesn’t have a working temp gauge so I’m gonna buy the infrared gun so I can get a good accurate reading . I agree , if this is an original radiator I will have it re done, if it’s just some aftermarket one that some previous owner installed I think I will not bother re-doing it and just get a brand new one. Anyone have any suggestions on a good brand of radiator cap that has a good seal , I looked over the current radiator cap and it looks to be an aftermarket one done to look the same as the original

04-13-2018, 10:03 PM	#19
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,063	Re: Radiator questions ... I can't help you with the rad cap, not sure if they pressurized them in 32? My model a wasn't but my 36 is a 4# cap. As JSeery mentioned Brassworks is really a fine product if you go aftermarket. I recored my 36&38 and holding okay so far. But for me it wasn't a whole lot cheaper then a new brassworks. Just a decision that I made to keep most of the originality as I could. Find a very good shop if you do. Also I believe the whole front end is setup off the radiator, at least in 36/38 it is. So might be important to research the right move. . Last edited by Tinker; 04-13-2018 at 10:09 PM.

04-14-2018, 08:50 AM	#20
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,093	Re: Radiator questions ... On my 32, I run a 284 cubic inch 42 Merc engine - with lots of performance mods and therefore probably twice the original horsepower (which means about twice the heat). I had my stock 32 radiator recored (expensive work) - but I wanted the exactly correct tanks, sides, etc . . . so I got what I wanted, but it was about $900 to do it. I have updated water pumps from Skip - great product if you're running a 37-48 engine. I'm not aware of any special pump impellers for the earlier "water pump in head" engines - and the later 49-53 pumps typically had good vanes/impellers anyway. With his pumps, a LOT of water moves through the radiator and it will overflow with a stock cap and it filled like one would think it needs to be filled. So - I don't fill it all the way up and I let it seek the right level itself . . . seems to work fine. The alternate approach would be to get the original radiator cap to tightly seal and use that little in-line pressure widget that Skip sells - along with an overflow bottle. And as others have said - you can't go wrong with the guys at Brassworks - top notch products and workmanship.