Halogen's What is the top and Bottom

[msmaron]

hey guys, i know this has been asked but could not find the answer. I just got in some new 6v halogens from Mikes A fordable and which side goes UP in the socket??? there are no marks on the bases but what you see in these images... Basically 1 filament is a V and the other is more []. Thanks All

[Kurt in NJ]

The offset filament goes up, should be lit on low beam ----or you could try one up, one down and see which works better

My bulb has a line for "top"---the filament doesn't show in thepic, the line does.

Don't forget to adjust the focus --otherwise you might as well use a candle
Marcos site has a good example - http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/lamp_focus-2.htm

I thought you had a high output alternator, 35 watt bulbs are generator bulbs, you should be able to run 65 watt with alternator, i am going to try 35/ 50 watt with my generator

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

The offset filament goes up, should be lit on low beam ----or you could try one up, one down and see which works better

Which to you call the offset....the V or []??? and yes i can try them both ways, but want avoid handling halogens as much as possible always.

[Skibb]

My car's halogens blow the low beams time after time. I'd buy you coffee and a dozen donuts from the best donut shop in Jupiter if you have the answer.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Skibb

My car newly fitted with the halogens, blows the low beam time after time. I'd buy you coffee and a dozen donuts from the best donut shop in Jupiter if you have the answer.

check your alternator output. Mine was doing that ( sooo expensive!!) and it was putting out 9 volts instead of 6-7, which fried the filaments. It needed a new regulator installed.

[klawockvet]

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Use relays for high and low beam.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by msmaron

Which to you call the offset....the V or []??? and yes i can try them both ways, but want avoid handling halogens as much as possible always.

,


I would call the V the offset and I agree that is "probably" the low beam and it goes to the top. The high beam should be the filament that is dead center, which is the []. I wear a welding helmet to look at them when lit. Then you can see the difference.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by msmaron

Which to you call the offset....the V or []??? and yes i can try them both ways, but want avoid handling halogens as much as possible always.

In the top picture, the left side of the bulb is the top, so the numbers shown on the base will face the right side (passenger side) of the car.

[Kurt in NJ]

The filament that is in the center is high beam, the offset from center is low beam, that goes up.

I have had mine out several times for pictures, even fondled them with bare fingers, but I put them in holding with paper towel or tissue, then wipe after installation

In one of my modern cars the lens was broke, at first I couldn't find one, then I was lazy, after about 6 months I finally got to it, the bulb hadn't burned out, but it had a lot of debris burned onto it, it even got wet in the rain so good quality bulbs are quite durable

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

In the top picture, the left side of the bulb is the top, so the numbers shown on the base will face the right side (passenger side) of the car.

TOM so the numbers should face the passenger on both bulbs and it will be the top.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by Skibb

My car's halogens blow the low beams time after time. I'd buy you coffee and a dozen donuts from the best donut shop in Jupiter if you have the answer.

Originally Posted by pat in Santa Cruz

check your alternator output. Mine was doing that ( sooo expensive!!) and it was putting out 9 volts instead of 6-7, which fried the filaments. It needed a new regulator installed.

Originally Posted by klawockvet

Use relays for high and low beam.

You might want to read this post I have...it might help answer some of you "popping" issues and no you DON'T need Relays...there is no need at all

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98853

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by Skibb

My car's halogens blow the low beams time after time. I'd buy you coffee and a dozen donuts from the best donut shop in Jupiter if you have the answer.

Skip this can also be one of your issues and others, Below is a repo and original light socket.. you can clearly see the difference in the way they are made. The original on the TOP and RIGHT,. ,see the contacts, small not touching, see the wire out of the back.. This corrected some of my issues immediately

[P.S.]

Mark-
The bulbs should be mounted in the sockets so the printed numbers face the passenger's side of the car, as Tom said.

Originally Posted by Skibb

My car's halogens blow the low beams time after time. I'd buy you coffee and a dozen donuts from the best donut shop in Jupiter if you have the answer.

Halogens are different from regular bulbs in that they run much hotter than regular bulbs. The heat produced by halogens needs to be bled off, or "dissipated" somehow for the bulbs to last a long time. Since halogens will not tolerate so much as a fingerprint on the glass without producing a hot spot, the heat must be dissipated through the base.

You guys using those halogens that fit into the stock Model A sockets are not providing a way to dissipate all the heat, and it's no wonder your bulbs blow out. Even an over-voltage situation should be tolerable to halogens for a while (despite the exponential rise in heat) as long as the heat has somewhere to go. In the stock socket scenario, you have a bulb cooking itself to death inside an oven (sealed headlight bucket).

If you want to run halogens in your Model A, then run the kind with the flange base on them so that the heat is transferred from the bulbs to the reflectors and then to the whole bucket. Like these-


You'll also notice the connector used on the back of the flange type halogens is different. This socket is designed for the additional heat AND the additional current required to operate them. That's just as important to operate halogens. Your stock sockets were never intended to have that much current pass through them continuously.

[Skibb]

Thank you Mark, Pat, PS and Klawokvet... looks like it's four dozen donuts and a bunch of coffee.... all around. I'll start on this Monday..... The Boss and I taking the Blue Ridge Tour on 4 or 5 May. headlights are important. My high beams work and are adjusted lower so as not to permanently blind on coming drivers. I'd really like high and LOW beams to work.

[OL JENNY]

If you have a NUREX alternator and blow multiple halogen high beam filaments, is there anyway to live with the alternator instead of buying another? What type of relays would you use. $200.00 for NuRex + $150.00 for another alternator !!

[P.S.]

If your NuRex is working properly, and you have the flange type halogens (installed properly, of course), then you should not blow any halogen bulbs at all. I've had the halogens in the car for 8 months and do a lot of night driving, including dozens of hours of Christmas light touring this last December, and have not had a single problem.

There is one trick to follow, however. Be sure that the alternator is engaged before turning the lights on. In other words, when you first start the car, you have to "goose" the throttle before the alternator kicks in and you show a charge on the ammeter. Do not turn the lights on until after the alternator has begun to charge.

[OL JENNY]

I went through 5 NARVA (German) bulbs, did all the alternator things, bulbs burn perfect until the engine is started and alternator excited, and the low beam burns perfect but the high beam will burn out within 10sec . Switch wires and low beam lasts on high beam wire and high beam burns out on low beam wire. I have grounded lights back to battery. I found "AutoLamps" (British Company) brand bulbs 6v H4 and they have not burned out, but seller does not want to mess with British Royal Mail again so I can not find back up bulbs. I think some NuRex regulators do not work as they should.

[msmaron]

NU REX alt do have a set rate of 7.4 +of- .4 so you can be going as high as 7.9 and you will BURN out halogens real fast, I was...read my link above and you can see how it was corrected....

You might want to read this post I have...it might help answer some of you "popping" issues and no you DON'T need Relays...there is no need at all

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98853

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by OL JENNY

What type of relays would you use. $200.00 for NuRex + $150.00 for another alternator !!

YOU do NOT need relays to run halogens, that is ridiculous...read the feed i have posted and you will see about the nu rex and the headlights..

[OL JENNY]

Mark I have read your very good post on solving your problem. You replaced your $200 dollar NuRex alternator with another $140 (now $150) alternator that does a better job of regulating the voltage. I considered this, but it seems like a waste of $200 so I thought there may be some way to live with the NuRex. Currently my "Autolamps" brand Halogen bulbs have not burned out, but I know my NuRex voltage is not as correct as you achieved with your new Delco Alternator. I for one appreciate the wealth of information you provided to all of us "Barners" with your solution. I guess I might also switch alternators.

[msmaron]

ok also there has to be a reason the nurex is putting out that much voltage to begin with.. do you have a water battery that has a bad cel and it is compensating to charge it...that was my main issue and that is why i switched to the optima

[OL JENNY]

It is a new, 6mo, water battery, but I had better check it to be sure. Thanks

[jrelliott]

You can replace the regulator in your altenator easily, if you feel that is the problem. Check the voltage with an ohm meter with altenator working. Voltage should be 7.2 to 7.4 volts. NAPA should be able to supply you with the replacement regulator. If you put in any new bulbs, clean them with alcohol and handle with a clean cloth to prevent any fingerprints or grease fom accumulating on the glass. This is especially true with the highh wattage bulbs. Learned this when running movie projectors years ago. I do have the p/n for the 12V single wire regulator if anyone wants the p/n send me an email [email protected]

[AL in NY]

Mark, did you even try the "unusual halogen from Vintage Bulb"? I believe they were 55/60 watt bulbs.

[imtb]

P,S. What type are these where are they available?

Originally Posted by P.S.

Mark-
The bulbs should be mounted in the sockets so the printed numbers face the passenger's side of the car, as Tom said.





Halogens are different from regular bulbs in that they run much hotter than regular bulbs. The heat produced by halogens needs to be bled off, or "dissipated" somehow for the bulbs to last a long time. Since halogens will not tolerate so much as a fingerprint on the glass without producing a hot spot, the heat must be dissipated through the base.

You guys using those halogens that fit into the stock Model A sockets are not providing a way to dissipate all the heat, and it's no wonder your bulbs blow out. Even an over-voltage situation should be tolerable to halogens for a while (despite the exponential rise in heat) as long as the heat has somewhere to go. In the stock socket scenario, you have a bulb cooking itself to death inside an oven (sealed headlight bucket).

If you want to run halogens in your Model A, then run the kind with the flange base on them so that the heat is transferred from the bulbs to the reflectors and then to the whole bucket. Like these-


You'll also notice the connector used on the back of the flange type halogens is different. This socket is designed for the additional heat AND the additional current required to operate them. That's just as important to operate halogens. Your stock sockets were never intended to have that much current pass through them continuously.

[msmaron]

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Originally Posted by imtb

P,S. What type are these where are they available?

Readily available at Brattons, Berts or any of the other major suppliers.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

Mark, did you even try the "unusual halogen from Vintage Bulb"? I believe they were 55/60 watt bulbs.

AL have not yet... i will report of course

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by OL JENNY

It is a new, 6mo, water battery, but I had better check it to be sure. Thanks

YES definitely check, that nu rex is pumping a lot for a reason