'46 v8 to long to fit '34 truck frame?

[GRAZIOLI]

I have a 1934 1/2 ton pickup that I recently started to restore. I bought a 1946 flathead v8 to put in it. it appears to be to long to fit into the frame. HELP PLEASE.

[GRAZIOLI]

pictures of what I'm dealing with below.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GRAZIOLI

pictures of what I'm dealing with below.

[flatjack9]

That front pulley is from a 1939/40 engine and is meant to mount the fan. It is not 46.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

That front pulley is from a 1939/40 engine and is meant to mount the fan. It is not 46.

What pulley does he need to fit this engine into that frame. Looks like he's doing a nice job of it! And PHOTOS, right outa the chute. Impressive.

[Newc]

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Even with some Merc mount risers and the correct front pulley, the spring clamp will interfere with a fan belt change. I used only retangular bolts for the front spring to help. Newc

[GRAZIOLI]

Do I need to replace the the front cross member of the frame to get this too fit? any recommendations?
When you say "use rectangular bolts" are you saying remove the U bolts and the hand crank stabilizer on top of the cross member?

[GRAZIOLI]

Originally Posted by Newc

Even with some Merc mount risers and the correct front pulley, the spring clamp will interfere with a fan belt change. I used only retangular bolts for the front spring to help. Newc

Do I need to replace the the front cross member of the frame to get this too fit? any recommendations?
When you say "use only rectangular bolts" are you saying remove the U bolts and the hand crank stabilizer on top of the cross member?

[Lawrie]

I have a 99a block in my 33 sedan
Here is what I did at the front,
Cut the front half of the pulley off on a lathe,so you just have the inner one,I then shortened upthe snout of the crank, you can do this with a 4inch angle grinder and slitting wheel,(I did mine in the lathe)
then get the pulley retaining bolt and machined off the crank starting dogs, then it will slip into place by the u bolt crank handle guide.
use the supplier supplied horse shoe type adaptor mounts on the original 33/34 chassis mounts.
Lawrie.PM me if you want some photos.
Lawrie

[38 coupe]

Ford used a very short crankshaft snout on the V8 engines through 1938. Starting in 1939 the front of the engines gets longer with a longer crankshaft snout and longer front pulleys. As Lawrie described you need to make the front of the 46 motor be like the front of a 32-38 motor.

[Mart]

I just looked at my 33 which had a 59A swapped in in the 50s. It looks like the loop has been trimmed off the U bolt abutment and the pulley was trimmed down. It needs to be just a little longer than the crank so a thick washer can pull it tight. I think I would prefer this approach rather than modifying the crank especially with an already built up engine.

The motor needs spacers to raise it up off the mounts. I made my own.

People have been doing this swap since the 1950s. Belt changes can be a challenge. having the motor spaced just high enough to snake the belt through helps.

[drfromnc]

Same project here Graziola; 34 pickup with 59a engine and I am in NC too.

Loop is trimmed off spring clamp, original pulley trimmed down, used a homemade set of the Ford engine mount u-shaped adapter and a set of engine mount spacers to lift front of engine to barely allow belt change. If I remember right, adapter and spacer lifted engine 2-1/2”.

[Newc]

Yep, retangular 'U' bolts/w no cast part. Newc

[blucar]

Many years ago i had some experience with 59 AB engine in pre 35 vehicles. As I recall we used early water pumps without the mounting ears. The later Ford blocks were drilled for the '32-33 front mounts which should solve the mount issue. The '36 and earlier log type of exhaust manifold will also fit into the frame rails better.
Most of the issues surrounding later engines into earlier cars can be solve using a combination of Ford parts.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

What pulley does he need to fit this engine into that frame. Looks like he's doing a nice job of it! And PHOTOS, right outa the chute. Impressive.

There is a pulley specific to the 59AB engine. Has 2 sheaves. Might have to cut the front one off.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Mart

I just looked at my 33 which had a 59A swapped in in the 50s. It looks like the loop has been trimmed off the U bolt abutment and the pulley was trimmed down. It needs to be just a little longer than the crank so a thick washer can pull it tight. I think I would prefer this approach rather than modifying the crank especially with an already built up engine.

The motor needs spacers to raise it up off the mounts. I made my own.

People have been doing this swap since the 1950s. Belt changes can be a challenge. having the motor spaced just high enough to snake the belt through helps.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by drfromnc

Same project here Graziola; 34 pickup with 59a engine and I am in NC too.

Loop is trimmed off spring clamp, original pulley trimmed down, used a homemade set of the Ford engine mount u-shaped adapter and a set of engine mount spacers to lift front of engine to barely allow belt change. If I remember right, adapter and spacer lifted engine 2-1/2”.

[Bored&Stroked]

Mart has the right idea - that is exactly how I setup a 59AB in my 34 coupe. Just trim the "loop" off, cut the pulley you have down (on a lathe) to remove the fan flange and keep the length just a tad longer than the end of the crankshaft.

As others noted, you'll need the U-bend spacers to not only prop the front of the engine up to the correct level (via the water pump mounts), but also the motor mount holes aren't the same width as the later engine, so the little U-bends also "fix" that issue (holes are offset just a bit).

[jimTN]

It appears from the pic of your trans mt that you need to push back against the torque tube and bolt the mount down. That would move your engine back some.

[drfromnc]

Originally Posted by jimTN

It appears from the pic of your trans mt that you need to push back against the torque tube and bolt the mount down. That would move your engine back some.

I see that too once I zoomed in on the picture.

He is also missing the outer clam shell that connects torque tube to transmission or it is out of the picture and not bolted in place. Really not needed for mock-up.