WTB Full Flow Oil Conversion Kit

[Jeep09]

Is Flathead Speed still in business? Or is anybody else selling this kit?
Full Flow Oil Conversion Kit for the Flathead Ford

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Jeep09

Is Flathead Speed still in business? Or is anybody else selling this kit?
Full Flow Oil Conversion Kit for the Flathead Ford

[ford38v8]

Good time to compare full flow with bypass systems:
Full flow:
Pump>filter>(filter bypass>sump)bearings>sump>repeat.
Bypass:
Pump>(filter>sump)bearings>sump>repeat.

An explanation of the routing:
Full flow filters have a pressure relief bypass to prevent the filter from bursting.
Bypass filters have no such pressure relief, nor do they need one as their output is not essential to the needs of the engine. This means that the full flow will always have a percentage of unfiltered oil pumped through the bearings, so it is essentially similar to the bypass system in that respect.
Why choose one over the other? Because the bypass filter removes all particles down to just half the size the full flow filters remove. Your choice.

[Bored&Stroked]

Full Flow - Additional Details: It isn't necessarily true that there is always a percentage of unfiltered oil pumped through the bearings. On a flathead Ford, there has always been a residual pressure release valve either in the block (up front in the valley) or in the pump to relieve/control oil pressure.

Given this, one can run a full-flow filter that does not have a pressure relief valve in it. This guarantees that all oil going through the filter is never bypassed.

Systems called 95% Full Flow: Many of the supposed "full-flow" conversions do not have a specially modified oil-pump (where the oil exits the pump through the side of the pan). Instead, the cross-over oil galley (above the pump) is blocked off and the oil is routed through a full-flow filter - then back into the main galley on the other side of the blocked off one.

However, in these systems the rear main has its own supply that doesn't rely on the cross-over galley. This means the rear-main is not filtered in these conversions. I disagree with the 95% nomenclature - that is over optimistic in my mind.

I call these systems 66% filtration.

[ford38v8]

I don’t believe there is an off the shelf spin-on filter that doesn’t have an internal pressure relief valve. I suppose I could be wrong, it wouldn’t be the first time!

[V8 Bob]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Jeep09

Is Flathead Speed still in business? Or is anybody else selling this kit?
Full Flow Oil Conversion Kit for the Flathead Ford

Check with Phil @ Goller's Hot Rods in Defiance OH. He still may have some MCF kits available.


http://www.gollershotrods.com/contact.aspx

[69a]

This is the 100% style filter he is asking about.There is NO unfiltered oil going to the motor. Some filters have an internal pressure relief that bypasses the oil internally if the filter is blocked. You need this feature! I use a Z9 or equivalent, it has a pressure relief that opens when the pressure between the input and output differs by more than around 10psi (this will have no effect on the pressure going to the engine) It also has an anti-drain back valve which is good on a remote mounted filter. Fit your oil pressure gauge after the filter.
I have bought Two of these. One from Motor City and the last one from Goller's Hot Rods. gollershotrods.com

[Lawrie]

I made my own, look at one of my previous posts, under full flow filter.
Lawrie

[tubman]

Newer is not necessarily better. The way these cars are used and maintained these days, my opinion is that a bypass system is superior to any of the "Full Flow" conversions out there for reasons stated earlier in this thread and countless other places..

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by Jeep09

Is Flathead Speed still in business? Or is anybody else selling this kit?
Full Flow Oil Conversion Kit for the Flathead Ford

I would be very leery of that conversion. There's a huge flaw with a rubber hose located inside the Ford flathead oil pan one of which trying to keep a hose away from the rotating assembly. The next flaw is when the hose comes off the fitting on the cover of the oil pump the possibility of serious bearing damage becomes reality. Adding to this is the additional grief putting the oil pan on.

The 95 percent conversion by far is more reliable and a heck of a lot safer without the danger of that hidden hose failing in the oil pan. I know of individuals who have lost the bearings due to the hidden oil hose crating an issue. So far I have not heard of and personally have never experienced such a failure with the 95 percent system.
Your results may differ but I for one am not a gambling man.
Ronnieroadster

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

I don’t believe there is an off the shelf spin-on filter that doesn’t have an internal pressure relief valve. I suppose I could be wrong, it wouldn’t be the first time!

Usually they are filters that are designated for racing. The idea is to attempt to ensure that crap doesn't go through the bearings. Example are some of the WIX racing filters that I've used before - here is an example:

Screenshot 2023-10-24 203905.jpg

[Bored&Stroked]

I've ran the system shown in the picture - it does not have a rubber hose in the pan. It has a hard line inside the pan (the u-bend shown). It is not super-easy to install the pan, so beware if you go this route. If you have a cleanly assembled engine and do proper maintenance, I can see no real issue with running the 95/66% system (if looking for a full-flow type setup).

[Lawrie]

I use an aeroquip high temp teflon lined stainless braided hose on mine inside the pan
Lawrie

[Ol' Ron]

I've always used the 66/95% system in my engines. Especially the race engines. This system and 5000 mile oil changes should keep your engine for a very long time. Keep it simple!!
Gramps

[flatjack9]

This is what can happen with the 67% system 1 and 2 bearings are not harmed. Thrust not so good.

[Gene1949]

Originally Posted by tubman

Newer is not necessarily better. The way these cars are used and maintained these days, my opinion is that a bypass system is superior to any of the "Full Flow" conversions out there for reasons stated earlier in this thread and countless other places..

Hear hear. very very few "full flow" oil filters are without internal relief valves./ MOST (99%) relief valves START opening (bypassing filter) between 15-20 lbs. Look it up. Most reputable manufacturers have a spec sheet posted online.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

This is what can happen with the 67% system 1 and 2 bearings are not harmed. Thrust not so good.

Hey FlatJack . . . that rear main really doesn't look like crap went through it, more like the clearances were too tight and it got hot? My guess is that it didn't have enough oil and film-strength to prevent journal to bearing surface wear.

What type of bearing clearances were you running for the rear main? I always open the rear main up a bit more than the front two - as it tends to expand more due to the heat from the clutch.

Just curious if you happen to know?

Thanks!

B&S

[21stud]

Okay,

so this is internet forum? I get that after reading this.

Op question was answered at posts 6 and 7.

Then I see only few posters in this thread actually understand how oil filter works, I'm talking about so called full flow, modern times engine pressurised filters widely used since what, fifties/ sixties?

Do you guys actually believe that millions and millions of vehicles out there get unfiltered oil thru them all the time? Really???

just a little knowledge could be a thing here?

Well, I try.

Oil filter between oil pump and engine got exactly same pressure as rest engine, say 50psi.
Bypass valve inside filter got this same pressure BOTH sides of it. Valve only opens if pressure difference between inlet and outlet side is big enough.

NOTHING TO DO WITH ACTUAL OIL PRESSURE/ FLOW. That example someone posted 15-20 lbs is actually biggest number I've seen. It depends only filter flow capacity and is designed after that. So again: OIL FILTER BY PASS VALVE IS NOT OPEN WITH 15-20 lbs oil pressure!!!

It is safety feature, rarely ever opens. Situations where it could open are:
Cold start freezing weather with too thick oil say 60W.
Something like 50000 miles or more with same filter and it gets choked.

If there is not oil filter bypass, filter will explode with these extreme situations.


Please read this excellent post again, this is correct information:

Originally Posted by 69a

This is the 100% style filter he is asking about.There is NO unfiltered oil going to the motor. Some filters have an internal pressure relief that bypasses the oil internally if the filter is blocked. You need this feature! I use a Z9 or equivalent, it has a pressure relief that opens when the pressure between the input and output differs by more than around 10psi (this will have no effect on the pressure going to the engine) It also has an anti-drain back valve which is good on a remote mounted filter. Fit your oil pressure gauge after the filter.
I have bought Two of these. One from Motor City and the last one from Goller's Hot Rods. gollershotrods.com

[69a]

21stud. CORRECT!
I'd just like to add that if the internal filter bypass is open (which in reality will never happen with correct oil and filter changes at less than 10,000 miles) it will not effect flow or pressure to the motor as the extra pressure is generated between the pump and filter, where there are no losses.
In saying that I do agree that the 88% system is the best as far as effort/reward.
I first went from the 80% to the !00% because my engine builder (A well known west coast company) couldn't follow my simple instructions to tap a thread in the cross-over oil gallery.

[hotrodcbx]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

I've ran the system shown in the picture - it does not have a rubber hose in the pan. It has a hard line inside the pan (the u-bend shown). It is not super-easy to install the pan, so beware if you go this route. If you have a cleanly assembled engine and do proper maintenance, I can see no real issue with running the 95/66% system (if looking for a full-flow type setup).

My full flow system uses AN hose and fittings from the pump to the exit on the oil pan. Makes things a lot easier to install and as close to 100% reliable as it can get..