59A oil leak

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Seems a bit late for that "rust proof" part, according to this pic that henry posted a while back. DD

I oughta at least clean more of the mud off of that regulator and get a new picture before showing it any more. Ah, but that mud is a souvenir of the drive over the San Rafael Swell on my Monument Valley trip this year. Fond memories. [Here: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99523] And the rust? Well, that's a souvenir of every mile we've driven that car since dad bought it in 1959 for $100.00. Wouldn't part with a single flake.

[Old Henry]

Found my oil leak!

Put Old Henry up on 4 jack stands so he would be level. Wiped off all oil on the oil pan and everywhere else it was fresh. Started up the engine and pulled the throttle out to idle at 1500-2000 rpm. Then got under there with my light looking for fresh oil. I really expected it to be at the front because the whole oil pan was soaked. After 10 minutes - nothing.

Then I saw a little drop forming back at the rear of the oil pan. Traced it up to the fitting where the oil return line goes into the oil pan with the dip stick. Just the slightest bit of oil coming out but I thought I might just tighten that fitting so I shut off the engine, got my 7/16" end wrench and went back under. As soon as I touched the fitting I could tell it was totally loose. Not even screwed into the socket! Looked like the splinters of a stripped thread on it too. Wondered if, when my last engine rebuilder replaced that line, he cross threaded the fitting so I wouldn't even be able to get the fitting to screw back in. No problem though. It screwed right in but would not tighten up because the threads were stripped inside of the socket. That's why it unscrewed all the way out and would keep doing so unless something changed.

I've had this kind of leak before - on my carburetor. Fixed it right up with Rector-Seal #5. So, gobbed some all over the end of the flared tube and the fitting threads and screwed it in as far as it would go until the threads started to slip. I'll leave it till tomorrow and don't expect any more problem with it.

I guess with the way the air currents swirl around underneath the engine that oil just went everywhere and coated everything. Sure glad it was as simple a problem as it turned out to be. That list of possible leaks that was first presented was pretty scary.

[moonshine runner]

Glad you got it figured out! I work in the trucking business, and believe me, it don't take much of an oil leak to make a mess running down the road!

Kevin

[woodypecker]

Love your stories. Keep driving.

[1937pickup]

It seems like just yesterday we were reading about your engine rebuild-now you have 12K miles on it. You really pound the miles on that old guy.

[Old Henry]

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Originally Posted by 1937pickup

It seems like just yesterday we were reading about your engine rebuild-now you have 12K miles on it. You really pound the miles on that old guy.

Oops. I went back and checked and I've only put 7,000 miles on the engine since it was rebuilt in June. Sorry.

I guess that's still quite a few miles compared to what some drive, like more than some drive in a year.

[31chevy]

I'm glad it was something that simple, must have been a relief when you found it. Keep the pictures & stories coming we enjoy them.
Gary.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

I oughta at least clean more of the mud off of that regulator and get a new picture before showing it any more. Ah, but that mud is a souvenir of the drive over the San Rafael Swell on my Monument Valley trip this year. Fond memories. [Here: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99523] And the rust? Well, that's a souvenir of every mile we've driven that car since dad bought it in 1959 for $100.00. Wouldn't part with a single flake.

And so I did.
Less mud.
Same rust.
(Replaced all prior "muddy" images with this one for any that may be more concerned about looks than function.)

[billwill]

Clean down good than let run look hard youll see somthing Good Luck

[Old Henry]

Well, the Rector-Seal didn't do the job. I'm thinking probably the best solution short of un-riveting that plate that the dip stick and oil return line go through and replacing it (if such can even be found) is to tap out the hole for the oil line fitting and put a heli-coil in there. Any better ideas? If the heli-coil is the way to go what size of tap and coil do I need to fix this?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Well, the Rector-Seal didn't do the job. I'm thinking probably the best solution short of un-riveting that plate that the dip stick and oil return line go through and replacing it (if such can even be found) is to tap out the hole for the oil line fitting and put a heli-coil in there. Any better ideas? If the heli-coil is the way to go what size of tap and coil to I need to fix this?

Why don't you just do it right and quit messing-around with "band-aid" fixes for the kitchen sink? C&G advertises what ya need for two bits! DD


Part number: 59A-6751

Engine Oil Dipstick Tube Boss

Includes gasket and rivets.

35-48 Passenger Note: with oil return hole

39-48 Mercury Note: with oil return hole

35-47 Pickup Note: with oil return hole



Years covered: 1935 1936 1937 1938 1939 1940 1941 1942 1946 1947 1948

[OLD...BILL]

at best it's pan off doing. I have seen the item in someones cataloge like Drake's ...it is pot-metal and not the best to drill and tap, not much material there to work with in the first place .... If it were mine I would seal off the bad hole and weld ( braze ) a new fitting in the side of the pan for the return line .....to re-rivet the new piece, your pounding on steel rivets, in pot-metal with a gasket under it... the possible of distortion of all components ..is way out there ....or pop rivets work good to ..but there is a hole in the center of pop rivets, to seal ?? been there .... OLD....BILL

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by OLD...BILL

.....to re-rivet the new piece, your pounding on steel rivets, in pot-metal with a gasket under it... the possible of distortion of all components ..is way out there ....or pop rivets work good to ..but there is a hole in the center of pop rivets, to seal ?? been there .... OLD....BILL

Use DOUBLE-NUTTED 4-40 or 6-32 machine screws. DD

[Mart]

If you don't want to pull the pan, you could make an alternative return to the engine. Some applications have a tapping in the side of the fuel pump stand. Easy to remove the stand, tap 1/8NPT and screw in a fitting. This is factory on some models. The fitting in the sump could be plugged.

As a quick stopgap, the oil filter could be eliminated. The feed and the fitting in the sump could be plugged and you could just carry on.

Obviously, at some convenient time the proper fitting in the sump could be repaired or replaced and things returned to normal.

Mart.

[Firepower flyer]

I think that's pipe thread,not sure they make a helicoil for that.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Thanks for the idea. If I can't see the leak without the dye and black light I'll get it and use it.

Mr. Guessbert the first thing you have to do is clean the mess real good so you can see the leak. If it was a water pump it would be slung all over the inner fenders although if the water pump gasket to block was loose or damaged at the oil hole it could leak. You can change the pan or timing gaskets without removing the engine. Sounds like you need a good mechanic. G.M.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by G.M.

Mr. Guessbert the first thing you have to do is clean the mess real good so you can see the leak. G.M.

Looks like you'll need to have your mother read #22 to you again for description of my diagnostic process. You weren't listening the first time. I don't think even you could have done any better to diagnose the problem and source of the leak.

Originally Posted by G.M.

Sounds like you need a good mechanic. G.M.

If I could find a good mechanic to keep my car on the road I would pay him to do it in a heart beat. Any that I've let try though have messed it up even worse than I do. I much prefer driving to fixing but have to fix to drive so I do it with the help of the kind and knowledgeable folks here on the barn. OK, some are knowledgeable even if unkind. I listen to them too although it's a lot harder.

If you have a "good mechanic" in mind convenient to my location let me know. Or, was that just a snide remark not really meant to suggest that you might be helpful in some way.

[Old Henry]

I apologize to V8COOPMAN (and any others that might be offended) for this report of my repair contrary to his very valuable advice to fix it right but I didn't have time to pull the pan to fix this problem the right and best way as he instructed (much appreciated) before I went on my road trip so I just used 2 part 5 minute hobby epoxy to glue the fitting in place.



Worked just fine on the 641 mile trip with 30+ miles on washboard off road, the ultimate test of strength and solidarity of all connections. Fitting stayed solid without any leak. I expect that it will continue solid until I have to remove the pan for some other reason at which time I will definitely fix it right. (Shine in photo is epoxy, not oil. Yellow is the Rector-Seal I tried first.)

Sometimes the "wrong" but easier way works out OK (if you're lucky).

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Well, I didn't have time to pull the pan to fix this problem the right and best way as V8COOPMAN instructed (I appreciate that) before I went on my road trip so I just used 2 part 5 minute hobby epoxy to glue the fitting in place.



Worked great on the 641 mile trip with 30+ miles on washboard off road, the ultimate test of strength and solidarity of all connections. Fitting stayed solid without any leak. (Shine in photo is epoxy, not oil. Yellow is the Rector-Seal I tried first.)

Sometimes the "wrong" but easier way works out OK.

Sounds like you're proud of your handiwork. You have every right to boast though...your car, and your successful adventure. For sure, you've beat the odds of necessarily having to find a tow truck out there in the middle of Nowhere, Utah. Please forgive me as I scratch my head while attempting to understand your wisdom, 'cuz I'm missing something. DD

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by G.M.

Mr. Guessbert the first thing you have to do is clean the mess real good so you can see the leak. If it was a water pump it would be slung all over the inner fenders although if the water pump gasket to block was loose or damaged at the oil hole it could leak. You can change the pan or timing gaskets without removing the engine. Sounds like you need a good mechanic. G.M.

Henry, Don't mind old George. He must have been having another of his frequent bad days.

George, If you drove your car(s) as much as Henry, you'd show some respect.
On second thought, why would I think that?