Now What...electrical this time

[tyler]

Installed my new radiator today, looks like my overheating problem is solved, finally! No problems at all with the new radiator. Ran the car about 12 miles with some pretty good hills and it didn't come close to getting hot.

Got back home and thought I'd try to fix the taillight, got a repro for now until I find time to fix the original. New wiring harness this spring but I'm not happy with the way the switch is wired. I've had headlights and the ignition of course works but haven't hooked up tail lights or horn yet.

So I turn the headlight switch on to make sure they're working, they were when I took my drive today, and lo and behold, nothing! Wiggled the lever under the horn button, checked the bulbs and the wiring to see if something had made a contact somewhere but I don't see anything wrong. Then I tried to start it (hand cranking 'cause the starter isn't so good)and,nothing. Checked my battery, it's got a good charge. Cables were tight and clean but I removed them and cleaned the terminals and checked my ground, all seems good. I've got juice to the starter but nothing else works, no spark, nothing. What should I be looking for next? I'm hoping I can get some help with this tomorrow as I'm completely color blind (only see black, white and grey) so I've never gotten into wiring much. Any help appreciated.

Tyler

[pat in Santa Cruz]

do you have a fuse at the starter switch? If so, its probably burnt out

[700rpm]

If it's not the fuse, take a look at Mike V. Florida's post on this thread:
http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79800&page=2

[Tom Wesenberg]

You need to use a volt meter and find the spot where the voltage stops. The first 2 replies should have you fixed up.

[tyler]

Nope, no fuse. Thanks for showing me that post, 700rpm. I'll use that checklist later today. Hopefully something will show itself.

Tyler

[tyler]

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Thanks Tom. I'll make sure we have a volt meter. Looks like you're an early riser too.

Tyler

[1931 flamingo]

I would ck the connections for the headlights if yoy've replaced the radiator, also the ign sw if a replacement. When you find your problem and fix i would install the fuse sold by all the vendors.

Paul in CT

[tyler]

Update; problem turned out to be the ammeter. Fuse is the next project. I thank you all again for the help.

Tyler

[Tom Wesenberg]

If an ammeter is ever suspect, it can easily be bypassed by just jumping a clip lead across the two wing nuts on the terminal box cover. Of course if the nuts inside the terminal box are loose or corroded, this temporary fix may not help.

[Christoph]

You need to have minimum one fuse on your starter (cable to junction-box)
Do it soon !!!

Have fun
Christoph

Once you found out about the fun installing fuses, you might want to
have additional fuses:
- on the generator to the lights (i got junk repro parts in the lights too)
- on the generator to the horn.
- on the way to the stop light switch

Stop at that point - this should be enough

Next should be to hide the fuses (and try to remember where they are)

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by tyler

Update; problem turned out to be the ammeter. Fuse is the next project. I thank you all again for the help.

Tyler

Often it is the simplest thing. But then, finding that thing can be difficult.

[columbiA]

I use a 30 amp breaker on my car as I have found the fuse holders sold by the vendors to be troublesome.

[tyler]

Took the car on a sixty-mile round trip to a tractor show yesterday, ran good but the timimg is so touchy with this 5.5 head. It still feels like it's too far retarted but if I advance the spark to where the power band is I get knocking. My mechanic says he thinks the knocking is from detonation, not from the lower end or piston slap. Whatever it is, it's aggrevating. I think I'm going to re-install the old head.

Yup, fuse or breaker is next along with beheading. Thanks again.

Tyler