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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,068
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Do you put silicone gasket sealer in the oil-pan groove and the timing cover groove and install the one pieace seal with it still wet? I find that it takes some sealer around the one-piece seal to fill in all the gaps and complete the seal. I probably put about an 1/8" bead in the seal groove channels.
The same goes for the oil-pan gasket. Usually it has to be trimmed to clear the one-peace seal, then you put silicone sealer in the corners where the pan meets the seal. Hard to diagnose from afar - but somewhere you have some major spaces/gaps in the main sealing area (that is my guess anyway). If you've got the steel seal sleave installed on the crank (little over an 1/8" thick and about 1 3/8" long) - with the smooth repair sleeve over it, then that area should be good to go. How is the oil pressure in the engine? Could somebody have forgotten to put in the front galley plug - which would flood the timing system with huge amounts of oil? Is this a new engine, recently rebuilt??? |
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#22 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 70
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Good morning, as I recall, it's been 4years since I last buttoned up the newly rebuilt engine, I sealed the pan/timing cover just as you described. I am reasonably sure I installed the oil galley plug. I did, however, drill a 0.060 hole in the plug to ensure adequate oil to the cam/crank gears. The oil pressure at 2000 RPM was 50 PSI
Keith PS: it is morning in Yuma AZ. |
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#23 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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An .060 hole can move a lot of oil! That is the same size hole going into the oil filter. Not sure where you received the advice to drill a hole in the plug, but IMO a very bad idea and could be the source of your problem. There is no need for that much oil inside the timing cover.
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#24 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oshkosh, Wi
Posts: 4,527
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That .060 hole is flooding the front of your engine in oil. Bad move.
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#25 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
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Well, you've posted the source of your major amount of oil - the drilled oil galley plug. The gears get plenty of oil out of the front cam bearing as well as a 49-53 cam is drilled to provide pressurized oil to the front of the timing cover (the cam thrust surface). There is no need to add additional oil to flood the timing area. My guess is that you're getting way too much oil for the oil seal to handle.
Also, did you install the late 49-53 crank and timing gears? They push the cam thrust toward the front of the block - which keeps the distributor mesh and timing in the right place and also closes up the gap between the end of the cam snout and the timing cover. This reduces the amount of pressurized oil that can come out the front of a 49-53 cam. If you used the 39-48 gears (which thrust toward the block), then there is a gap at the front of the cam . . . another source of more oil that wants to run down and flood the front of the crankshaft (the seal area is right below it). It is not really too big of a deal to pull the timing cover, turn the crank so the timing marks are aligned and pull the cam gear. Then you can replace the plug with a stock one. Make sure you use an original plug - as it is designed to limit the amount of oil that goes up to the oil-pressure relief plunger up above it. Before you do this, I'd pickup a replacement timing gear bolt locking plate (cheap and widely available) - as I seem to manage to break off the ears about 1/2 the time I take them off. Make sure you don't break off any ears and let them fall down into the pan. |
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#26 |
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#27 |
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Location: Iowa
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At our shop we keep rope seals immersed in oil. Don't trim the length of the seal before installation. When tightened down, it is forced into the contact for necessary sealing action. Unless the seal surface on the crank is damaged, you should have good results. When using a repair sleeve, sealer must be applied to the inside of the sleeve before it is moved into place
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#28 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oshkosh, Wi
Posts: 4,527
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I have used the rope seal and the neoprene seal with no leakage problems with either one. I also don't have a problem with the spiral grooves on the wear sleeve.
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#29 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 70
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I will be starting disassembly tomorrow. The plan is to replace the gallery plug, check the thrust of the cam gear and seal the repair sleeve. If necessary I will drop the pan and start from square one. I will let you know what I find. Thanks I appreciate all the input.
Keith |
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#30 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
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Good decision. I'm sure everything will turn out all right.
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#31 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Can someone please post pictures of this area?
Not sure if this helps...?
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"Came too close to dying to stop living now!" |
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#32 |
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Location: New Jersey
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#33 |
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Location: Central Ohio
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#34 | |
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Location: New Jersey
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#35 |
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 70
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Well I did a fine job putting the front cover on.I had hard time getting it off. Lots of gasket scraping to do. I will have to drop the pan as I messed up the front of the pan gasket. I am going back with the rope seal and have ordered the necessary seals and gaskets from C&G.
Keith |
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#36 | ||
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Join Date: May 2015
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Quote:
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The only thing nice about being imperfect is the joy it brings to others.... "Silver rings, your butt! Them's washers!" "We shot our way out of that town for a dollar's worth of steel holes!" - from 'The Wild Bunch' - 1969 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NReUd2_0u0 |
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#37 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 6,646
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You have discovered the secret reason for only using a bit of grease to hold gaskets in place during installation.
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Alan |
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#38 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 70
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You can bet I'll use grease going back. I just finished up soldering up the hole in the gallery plug and I noticed a little hole (1/4" ) located just above the gallery plug 2" +- what is its purpose?
Keith |
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