no third gear

[flatmotor40]

Shifts great in reverse 1st,2nd but will not go into 3rd gear on the shifter at all just stops.You can't even force it.Running down the road or sitting in shop with engine running or engine off.Thanks

[deuce_roadster]

Check the bushings at both ends of the linkage. Is there slop in the arm on the side cover? You may have to take the side cover off and check the detents. I believe your problem is probably in the linkage or adjustments somewhere. Also check the parts that are on the top of the steering mast jacket down by the gears.

[Ken/Alabama]

Disconnect the rods at the transmission then make sure both arms on the transmission are in the middle or neutral position then try to move the front arm down or towards the rear into the 3rd gear position.

[rotorwrench]

It could be a synchroniser problem. The early style hub detents can have a spring or a ball problem unless it has the detent plates and spring rings like the late types.

[flatmotor40]

Thanks just got back home will look at it now.

[Bored&Stroked]

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If the linkage looks good, then my guess is that the synchro "tabs" or "balls and springs" popped out and are preventing the slider from engaging with the front input shaft. Usually this is a result of worn synchros. Also, the older style of "balls, tabs and springs" tend to have more issues than the stamped metal tabs they used in the later synchros.

[flatmotor40]

Ken,I drained the trans like you said after I talked to you and 2 of the tabs that the ball goes in were on the bottom of the trans.I found them when I ran my finger in the drain hole.Well Im guess it is trans rebuild time.I have the transd that came in the 40 but the 1 in it now is a 46 so which one to rebGuess I will get everything from Mac.All brgs and shims and stuff.I guess he sales a total rebuild kit.More work!!!!!Thanks for phone call.Good to talk to you.

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by flatmotor40

Ken,I drained the trans like you said after I talked to you and 2 of the tabs that the ball goes in were on the bottom of the trans.I found them when I ran my finger in the drain hole.Well Im guess it is trans rebuild time.I have the transd that came in the 40 but the 1 in it now is a 46 so which one to rebGuess I will get everything from Mac.All brgs and shims and stuff.I guess he sales a total rebuild kit.More work!!!!!Thanks for phone call.Good to talk to you.

Yes Mac VanPelt has everything you’ll need.

[Bored&Stroked]

Pay close attention to the condition of the caged-roller bearings in the cluster and between the main-shaft and input shaft. Good used ones are better than any of the repop ones that I've seen. The repop ones are usually not hardened in the 'cage ends' - which causes them to wear out rather quickly.

Also, it is super important for the mainshaft to not be worn on the bearing snout and for the stack-up endplay on the mainshaft (2nd gear, synchro hub, etc) to be as close to .003 - .004 as possible. I usually have to monkey with the thrust washers to get the correct dimension.

Another area to really pay attention to is the cluster shaft - all the repop ones are not correctly hardened (poor material) and are .001 too small. If yours is good - reuse it. If it is worn on one side, then flip it over when you reassemble the trans.

[flatmotor40]

What about a clutch assembly.Who has the best.Don't want to do this but 1 time.

[flatmotor40]

Thanks Ken and all for help.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Pay close attention to the condition of the caged-roller bearings in the cluster and between the main-shaft and input shaft. Good used ones are better than any of the repop ones that I've seen. The repop ones are usually not hardened in the 'cage ends' - which causes them to wear out rather quickly.

Also, it is super important for the mainshaft to not be worn on the bearing snout and for the stack-up endplay on the mainshaft (2nd gear, synchro hub, etc) to be as close to .003 - .004 as possible. I usually have to monkey with the thrust washers to get the correct dimension.

Another area to really pay attention to is the cluster shaft - all the repop ones are not correctly hardened (poor material) and are .001 too small. If yours is good - reuse it. If it is worn on one side, then flip it over when you reassemble the trans.

Interesting idea. I never thought of flipping the shaft. It does amaze me how they get "wrinkled" or deformed and just thought they were toast when this happens. Good tip.

[flatmotor40]

Thanks I will tear the one down that was in the 40 when I got it.Talked to Mac today and he said tear it down before ordering parts to see if the case is good enough to use.