36 light switch body problems

[bgalla]

This is a 36 ford but I have a 31 also and it seems to me the light switch mechanism is pretty much the same for both. In my 36 a fuse would blow each time I turned on the lights. Checked all the wiring--- aok. Then noted in the switch body a defect in the bakelite insulation between the knobbed brass switch ring and its holder. Ordered a new body installed it and everytime I turned on the lights the horn would beep. So the horn grounded out on the inner holding plate for the insulated brass switch ring?? The inner diameter of this holding plate is 1/8''narrower than the original. Not much clearance. Has any one had this problem? Thanks Bruce

[JSeery]

Ford used the same basic design through 1939. I have no experience with the reproduction parts, so not much help there.

[Gary Tosel]

I have found that the reproduction switch plate does not work very well. You can see the difference if you compare to original switch.


I believe the switches were the same through 37, but in 38 they added the floor dimmer switch and dash panel jewel for high beam headlight indication.


This means that the horn rod turns on the headlights and tail lights, but the dimmer switch, not the horn rod, changes the headlights from normal to bright. In all cases, the horn rod does operate the parking lights


My experience indicates that using an original switch is the only way to correct the problems.

[Floyd]

I totally agree with the above on using "original" switch plates, originally phenolic ,aka Bakelite. All of the new ones are molded in a Delrin , (acetal) material and are inferior to the originals. You might get it to work, but it will give trouble soon. The wiring guru, Chris Olson of Bauer said everyone has to use the same new ones and suggests that if you have an original, put in on you new harness. This is hard to do as the original has soldered connections and the new ones have spade connections. I did exactly that, cutting off the old plate from my crusty original 32 harness and installing it on the new Bauer/Classtech harness. That and a NOS switch body, correct end of rod spider and original horn rod, my lights and horn work perfectly.

As a Public Service Announcement- If you have an old crusty, ratty, frayed original wiring harness for end of column light switch, please cut the phenolic plate off and keep it before throwing the old wires away. There is no acceptable new plate available.

Someone will be thrilled to have it as long as it is not broken. It will work.
My opinion,Floyd

[Gary Tosel]

I do not believe the phenolic plate is a problem, except the holes for the brass switch plate to stop have an edge to sharp that causes too much pressure on the horn rod to be able to turn and index properly. Small Dremel tool and relief is the solution to that problem.


I agree the phenolic originals should be saved, but also the original brass switch plates as well, since that was the problem I had with the reproduction switch. The brass "button" that stops in the hole does not index properly and can be a problem with the reproduction switch plate.

[bgalla]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thanks for the advice. I seem to have a problem downloading photos which I think show the problem. Bruce

[JSeery]

It is probably that the photo files are too large to post. Mart has a recent thread on the topic.

[mrtexas]

The repro for this part is absolute junk. Get an original.