Trouble locating countershaft (cluster shaft) shims

[oldbike99]

This is for a later transmission that did not come with the thick brass shims. I would like a .010 shim to tighten up the clearance, as there must be some case wear.
What are you thoughts about using a kingpin shim? .010 steel and available?

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by oldbike99

This is for a later transmission that did not come with the thick brass shims. I would like a .010 shim to tighten up the clearance, as there must be some case wear.
What are you thoughts about using a kingpin shim? .010 steel and available?

I think there too soft,...look for a shim here....

http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-shims/=w5wgvs

This could be a better choice...look at the Rockwell rating..

http://www.mcmaster.com/#spring-steel-shims/=w5wk7n

[Brian T]

I used the king pin shims, I used 2 and had to thin one down a few thousanths, took some time but managed to get to the minimum end play, looking back on it I am not sure it was worth it, there seems to be many opinions as to what is excess play.

[tbirdtbird]

How much play do you have?
Jim Schild's book calls for .020 lash.
I am sure that .025 would not make any difference.

If the ends of the cluster are rough or the mating surfaces inside the case are rough that will chew up any shims you put in there, I would check those surfaces.

Sounds like it was jumping out of second and to 'fix' that a PO just held the gearshift in gear by hand forcefully. Are the grooves in the shift collars worn or are the forks worn? Somehow there was axial loading to the cluster that would not normally occur

I'd be leary of a steel shim, even with smooth mating surfaces. I think in no time it will be chewed up. The cluster spins at all times, no matter what gear you are in

[oldbike99]

I have no history with it as it is an assembled transmission, with all new parts, except for the case. The end clearance of the cluster gear is at .014. I believe that I had decided to go ahead with that.

[larrys40]

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Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

How much play do you have?
Jim Schild's book calls for .020 lash.
I am sure that .025 would not make any difference.

If the ends of the cluster are rough or the mating surfaces inside the case are rough that will chew up any shims you put in there, I would check those surfaces.

Sounds like it was jumping out of second and to 'fix' that a PO just held the gearshift in gear by hand forcefully. Are the grooves in the shift collars worn or are the forks worn? Somehow there was axial loading to the cluster that would not normally occur

I'd be leary of a steel shim, even with smooth mating surfaces. I think in no time it will be chewed up. The cluster spins at all times, no matter what gear you are in

I agree with TBird, I would rather use a case that doesn't have so much wear for many reasons. By the way.. most of the info in Jim Schilds book was information from my friend and mentor Terry Oberer. Jim is a writer.
Terry was the "restorer". I was so lucky to have him as a mentor and friend... we had many good times for sure and shared the passion of working on them.

Larry Shepard

[tbirdtbird]

if you are at .014 then you are good to go

it sounded like you were way over that

[Tom Endy]

Over the years I have read about .020 thrust clearance on the cluster shaft as being acceptable. This seems a little much to me and I would not let a transmission out of the shop with such thrust.

There are a couple things you can do. Bratton's sells the shim washers used on each end of the cluster on the early housings. You can try to fit one on the end of the shaft up against the worn area of the housing. If it won't fit you can take a small pneumatic disk sander and laying the housing flat get inside and take a little more off.

The other option is to find another housing, there are plenty around, I see them at swap meets for $10 or less.

Tom Endy