Water in oil

[Eskildsm]

so i went to start my model A and checked the oil
And it was gray and over full. It did overheat on me last time I drove it and I added antifreeze to it before it completely cooled-- I know stupid move! I drained oil and added new oil and drained again then filled again and now when it's running there is smoke coming out what appears to be around exhaust manifold about #2 piston. Wondering if I cracked the head or blew a gasket?? Any help??

[Synchro909]

If any of that antifreeze you added got into the bearings, they will be history. Babbit HATES antifreeze. Cracked head/blown gasket, only taking the head off will answer that. Another possibility if it over heated is that the block might be cracked and that's bad news. They often go between either # 2 or #3 exhaust valve and the cylinder. Once the crack is bad enough, water can escape into the sump.
The only way I can see a blown head gasket allowing water into the sump is if it was badly blown and allowed water into the cylinder while the car was standing. It would seep past the rings and into the oil. I don't think that is the case here because the oil would only be milky if the motor was running while the oil was contaminated. A cracked head is unlikely allow water into the oil either (same as for head gasket).
I don't like to be the bearer of bad tidings but I'd prepare for the worst - a replacement engine.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Eskildsm

so i went to start my model A and checked the oil
And it was gray and over full. It did overheat on me last time I drove it and I added antifreeze to it before it completely cooled-- I know stupid move! I drained oil and added new oil and drained again then filled again and now when it's running there is smoke coming out what appears to be around exhaust manifold about #2 piston. Wondering if I cracked the head or blew a gasket?? Any help??

'gray and over full'....evidence of stop.

The next step that I'd take at this time would be to take a compression check to verify that head gasket blew. If nothing else, it is time to take head off to see what's what. That way, no more quessing. It's no big deal taking head off. Getting studs out might be, depending on how long ago any such work was done on this engine.

[Railcarmover]

In the world where people pay me to fix things speculation on what causes an issue only leads to hardship between you and the customer.Invariably speculation leads to a worst case diagnosis. I cannot see through steel,though experience will lead me in a direction to take action in, only disassembly will find the root cause..without knowing the root cause,you cant fix the issue. So take the head off and take a look,report on what you find.

[Synchro909]

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Originally Posted by Railcarmover

In the world where people pay me to fix things speculation on what causes an issue only leads to hardship between you and the customer.Invariably speculation leads to a worst case diagnosis. I cannot see through steel,though experience will lead me in a direction to take action in, only disassembly will find the root cause..without knowing the root cause,you cant fix the issue. So take the head off and take a look,report on what you find.

All very true. I can't argue with any of it. My first post was obviously speculation as I haven't seen inside the engine. Personal experience however suggests I will not be far off the mark. Time will tell and if I'm wrong, the OP wins.
I suggest you remove the head and don't touch the area between the exhaust valve and cylinder before having someone experienced in such things look at it or take a close up picture and post it here for people like Railcarmover and others to look at. Rubbing that area makes seeing a crack more difficult if there is one.
Does your motor have hardened valve seats?