Rebuilding T Motor

so I bought a disassembled TT truck with all the parts..the guy who had it took it apart to have the engine rebuilt..he took it to a reputable builder up here in mn., and they disassembled the engine in good faith of putting it back together for him but when he found out what it was going to cost he backed out and took his parts back and then sat on the project untill his wife made him get rid of that "pile of junk" in the garage,my friend jeff knew of this truck for years and i had a c cab body i was looking for a chassis for so this workrd out great for me because i didnt have any running gear, well when i started looking at the stuff he gave me i discovered the engine rebuilder had boiled out the babbit bearings . the enginge and parts are all rebuildable however, my pal jeff give me a block with a crank in it and the ctrank spins free and appears to not have any play in it..could i use my original parts on this motorwith out rebabbiting the block or should I just bite the bullit and get it done..quite expensive...I remember reading about guys pouring their own bearings in the old days..is this still possible what does it take to do it? tell me what a cheap bastard I am but your info will be greatly appreciated thanks I need your insight

IF the crank is straight, journals round, and the babbit looks good (and fits the journals) GO FOR IT! Then save up your bucks for a rebuild a bit later. Some of the old babbit jobs seem to be better than todays. Doesn't make sense to me, but it seems to be true.

Don't forget to have the crank magnafluxed!

T'ake care,

David D.

I agree with David, put it together using the parts you were given by your buddy and then rebabbit the other block yourself. Its not that tough of a job and there is a book being sold that you can find in the "Model T Times" magazine by Vic Zannis that has the drawings needed to make the pouring and boring jig as well as instructions to do the job.



You can expect about a $350 machine shop bill to have your block boiled, bored, surfaced, valve seats installed and the guides reamed. I installed 350 Chevy exhaust valves in mine.



I'm just now finishing an engine for my 26 and I figure to total will be around $1600 from the crank handle to the ball cap and I did it myself. To have it done by someone else you can plan on adding at least $1000.

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Just got mine back last Friday.

Bore .020 and cut new valve seats.

$230

Didn't need decking after all.

Now I have to deal with a crack.

I am going to try the soft solder approach first - this I should be able to do.

Last motor I had done was $140 for the above (- crack).