01-05-2018, 12:12 AM | #21 | ||
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Re: Bogus
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Quote:
From my archives; Purdy’s Brake adjustment Here is what works for me, even if there is wear in the system. Disconnect all of the service brake rods at the clevis end. Adjust the brake pedal rod so that the brake switch plunger is 1/16 inch from the inside back of the center cross member with the brake pedal at the top of its travel. This is where the pedal rod plunger contacts the brake light switch on the 30-31 models. In extreme cases, to give more threads at the clevises it may be necessary to adjust the pedal rod all the way back to the center crossmember without the 1/16 gap. Because there will nearly always be some wear in rear wheel bearings and axle housing bearing races, I first adjust the rear brakes. With any wear, rear brake adjustments made with the rear wheels off the ground will be TOO tight with the wheels on the ground. With the tires properly inflated for easy roll, I adjust the rear brakes with the tires on the shop floor. You only want very slight drag if any or the brakes will quickly overheat. Unless something is too tight, wheel bearings, brakes or the tires are low, a man should be able to slightly push the car back and forth by hand while making adjustments at the rear wedges to determine brake drag. You don't want much drag. After the rear brake adjustments at the rear wedges have been made Move to the front. With jack stands under the front axle, adjust the front brakes at the wedges until the brakes lock and back off as needed .You can check brake action by spinning the wheel and moving the brake lever by hand before connecting the brake rods. After the front wedges are adjusted, its time to move on to the brake rod connections. If you want good brakes, BELIEVE me, forget about any exact measurement here!!!!!!! The brake rods need to all be adjusted at the clevis ends so that the clevis pins will just enter the pinholes with ALL slack removed. This setup will have the pedal at the top of its travel and ready to put the lining to the drum. There is no need to concern yourself about whether the rear brakes engage first, its built in. I guarantee that if the brakes are right or even have some wear this setup will give very good brakes. Anything less will not. In testing and as new parts wear in, adjustments will need to be monitored I usually make panic stops in sand or dirt to gauge skid marks and adjust as needed. Follow Purdy's procedure and your car will stop. Burn your board!! Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 01-05-2018 at 02:24 AM. |
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01-05-2018, 01:25 AM | #22 |
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Re: Bogus
Well, I’m back from shopping. It’s just about a 75 mile round trip, and it was foggy most of the way. Fun, fun, and more fun. I’m being sarcastic just like I was trying to be in my original “bogus”.
I’ve got to give you guys a lot of credit. I thought that when I got home and turned on my laptop, it was going to explode or at least be too hot to handle. Again, I thank you for all your comments and when a really good suggestion comes along, I always check it out. That’s how this whole brake thing started. A simple “your levers are upside-down” led me to discover a big screw-up that I had nothing to do with. Now, the brakes are as they were intended to be, but nothing is adjusted correctly. It’s almost like I have to take the thing back to the factory, and have them set it up the way it was originally intended. However, there is no factory or oiginal brake assemblers left. I’ll eventually get them adjusted. I hope. However, now that it is Winter I seem to be spending a lot of time indoors where it’s warm, and I’m typing instead of wrenching. Mike |
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01-05-2018, 02:30 AM | #23 |
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Re: Bogus
There are several methods for adjusting your brakes - Try Purdy's first.
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01-05-2018, 06:08 AM | #24 |
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Re: Bogus
The mechanical brakes are good, and never leak. The SERVICE BULLETINS tell how to adjust them, and it is really easy to do. Once adjusted, I brake hard on sand or gravel and check for equal length of skid marks, or on pavement just brake somewhat hard and see if the car pulls left or right, then adjust the brakes accordingly.
Follow the SERVICE BULLETINS, and it likely won't pull to either side. |
01-05-2018, 09:13 AM | #25 |
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Re: Bogus
Mike,
I assume by your Barn join date that you like me are new at this Model A hobby. Unlike modern autos where if your lucky you can change the oil, Model As are a participation car. They need a lot of owner involvement. Open the gas valve, turn the GAV, retard the spark, etc. Prior to acquiring my 29 I believed I needed juice brakes too. These old cars are easy and sometimes fun to work on. Its part of the experience. |
01-05-2018, 09:22 AM | #26 |
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Re: Bogus
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After I did that once, I now adjust the brakes about twice a year. It takes maybe twenty minutes. I think if she had hydraulics (with fifty years of neglect) it would have been much the same except with dry rotted seals and lines instead of rusted bolts and adjusters. Both are valid systems with strengths and weaknesses, it is really just a case of what you are comfortable with. My car is very much a conversation piece, so I like to keep it pretty original. Mechanical brakes are a great conversation starter. Ken
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01-05-2018, 09:45 AM | #27 | |
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Re: Bogus
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I would like to add that if brake system is worn out, no matter what you do, it will not work well. REBUILD complete system. Don’t overlook anything. You will be rewarded with a car that stops, and you will feel comfortable driving it. Enjoy. |
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01-05-2018, 09:51 AM | #28 | |
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Re: Bogus
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01-05-2018, 10:57 AM | #29 |
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Re: Bogus
If you think the brakes are to much to handle...I can't wait for you to get to the really fun stuff.
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Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B |
01-05-2018, 11:23 AM | #30 | |
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Re: Bogus
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01-05-2018, 12:19 PM | #31 | |
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Re: Bogus
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I'm old school. I believe if you're new to a board like the Barn, you should show some respect. I think it's best to read the posts, research old threads, and learn something before challenging someone on a topic you know very little about. David Serrano |
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01-05-2018, 12:51 PM | #32 |
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Re: Bogus
He said he was being sarcastic. Remember it's the internet, we can't see facial expressions or the tone of his voice to know he was just joking. Lighten up you two Frances's.
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01-05-2018, 12:54 PM | #33 |
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Re: Bogus
this is the video on adjusting the brakes that I watched. But as I said when I got to checking them out I chose to leave them where they were. They had probably not had that many miles since their last adjustment.
I dont think you need to skid the car to adjust the brakes. You should be able to tell by turning the wheels by hand and feeling drag and if the car pulls way too much with braking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMizfaKHXVQ Last edited by mike657894; 01-05-2018 at 01:02 PM. |
01-05-2018, 12:57 PM | #34 |
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Re: Bogus
As I've stated in the past: "Wish I lived closer!"
Jeff |
01-05-2018, 01:16 PM | #35 | |
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Re: Bogus
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10:1 Their life on the Internet resembles their life without the Internet. That's my 2¢ worth Regards Bill Last edited by BillCNC; 01-05-2018 at 01:30 PM. |
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01-05-2018, 01:26 PM | #36 | |
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Re: Bogus
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Regards Bill |
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01-05-2018, 01:28 PM | #37 |
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Re: Bogus
A hot kitchen is where the best cooks can be found.
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Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B |
01-05-2018, 01:53 PM | #38 |
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Re: Bogus
I believe the stopping power of well maintained mechanical brakes is limited by the rubber to road footprint, ergo the same for juice brakes w/o anti-skid and who is willing to go there?
John |
01-05-2018, 02:00 PM | #39 |
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Re: Bogus
C'mon guys, knock it off before Ryan needs to get involved. It is getting a lot easier to be banned from the site.
I learned a lot about brake adjustment from the positive comments on this thread. Thanks Purdy! |
01-05-2018, 02:25 PM | #40 |
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Re: Bogus
Thanks Cool Hand and other kind people on this thread ,especially my friend Y Blockhead for your post # 21 . I was already wishing that I hadn't made the offer in the first place !!! Wingskis posts wasn't a direct insult to me . If he isn't interested in being able to set up and adjust his brakes , so be it .
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