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11-09-2018, 09:23 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2013
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transmission removal 30 or 31 roadster [not sure which]
hello- my car in primative location--dirt floor shed[ cant roll motor lifft; not much room to roll car back]-- fire wall out is out- need to pull rusted trans for repairs--
i hope to raise motor slightly and move it forward a few inches ,enuf to clear trans shaft lengths ques- does above sound feasible? any other suggestions? thank you as always |
11-09-2018, 09:41 AM | #2 |
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Re: transmission removal 30 or 31 roadster [not sure which]
Some have said it’s easier to remove the rearend and then the transmission ! I’ve not done it this way, but should be soon.
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11-09-2018, 09:41 AM | #3 |
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Re: transmission removal 30 or 31 roadster [not sure which]
Anything overhead you can use for a block and tackle or chain hoist for lifting engine?
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11-09-2018, 10:05 AM | #4 |
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Re: transmission removal 30 or 31 roadster [not sure which]
Take the wooden floor boards out and things will become a lot more accessible and you won't spend so much time under neath. A far easier method is to jack up the rear (With the side rails of the chassis)unhook the rear U-bolts (Two at the top of the frame) pull the rear down and back a couple of inches. Then the Trans is very available. Mod. A s have a split bell housing (Bell housing and Flywheel housing) Try not to disturb the connection between the flywheel housing and the engine block. This can require shimming and indicating to restore the flywheel housing to it's proper place. There are two bolt holes at the top of the flywheel housing. There is a .010 shim that goes under the flywheel housing at this point. Make sure that this shim is there. These shims are available from vendors if you don't have any. (Bratton's 2018 catalog, Pg 46, middle column, second from bottom) This was how they solved a problem at first. Much later they went to a one piece bell housing. Reassemble in reverse order!
Terry |
11-09-2018, 10:15 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks Co, Pa
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Re: transmission removal 30 or 31 roadster [not sure which]
A word of warning! HEED THIS! DON"T DISMOUNT THE SPRING ENDS! There is sufficient energy in the spring to kill or maim! Leave them attached and take the rear and rear spring out as a assembly. Unless you have a "Spring Spreader " and know how to use it. These things are deadly!
Terry |
11-09-2018, 01:08 PM | #6 |
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Re: transmission removal 30 or 31 roadster [not sure which]
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katy thanks: i thought i would an over head make a cross bar and use a 1000 pound winch to raise motor few inches, if this is easiest terry thanks : have i got this straight?- the rear leaf spring can't spread as the perches and rear axle keep it from spreading [right?] 1.remove 2 u bolts, 2. jack up rear end on frame anterior to rear wheels enuf for spring to clear transverse member channel-- 3. remove rear service brake rods where they attach to brake cross piece [my car has no parking brake cross piece] 4.remove the clam shell halves that cover the u joint 5. rear radius tubes -can leave radius tubes in just support from below or will cross brake piece support it? 6. roll the rear wheels with the combination [differential/radius tubes/rear dangling rods] back ____ [how many inches?] Last edited by wbs; 11-09-2018 at 01:13 PM. Reason: edit |
11-09-2018, 05:44 PM | #7 |
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Location: Bucks Co, Pa
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Re: transmission removal 30 or 31 roadster [not sure which]
Yup! You got the picture! You don't have to disconnect the rear radius rods. They all move as one unit, Just the brake rods. It's just a cotter pin. Check all your pivot pins they may be worn somewhere. Replace them if needed.
The front ball stabilizer (I don't know the exact nomenclature) or wishbone may or not have to go, not removed, just disconnected and held back out of the way. Study the spring clamp arrangement before you disconnect. There are springs and sleeves the are in the assy. See if you have a rubber ball over the knob/ball and how out of round your ball is. The ball may be worn. While then trans is out, take the cover off and check the condition of the ball at the end of it' This Ball is supposed to be .500/.495 (Thereabouts) for good "Crisp" shifting. It is probably more of a square and loose. You can buy a new one (Shifter rod) or weld the old on up. I chose to weld mine and forge it hot. But if that's beyond you and it needs replacing, just buy one (Snyders 2018 Catalog, Pg A-135 $48.95) You might be better off with a whole new shift tower. There's a coil spring that is a Bee-itch to remove and replace. It takes a special tool (Same page) Well I've given you enough to do. Good Luck! Terry |
11-11-2018, 07:58 AM | #8 |
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Re: transmission removal 30 or 31 roadster [not sure which]
thank you very much
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11-11-2018, 12:30 PM | #9 |
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Location: Oregon
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Re: transmission removal 30 or 31 roadster [not sure which]
If you want to use an engine hoist on a dirt floor just lay down a sheet or two of 1/2" plywood, and it will roll easily.
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11-11-2018, 08:46 PM | #10 | |
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Location: Charlotte, NC
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Re: transmission removal 30 or 31 roadster [not sure which]
Quote:
I just did a clutch job on a 30 Tudor and for the first time I removed the rear end instead of pulling the motor. It really went well, and was much easier then pulling the motor and everything that entailed. I just unhooked the two break rods up front (don't unhook at the rear) as they are really hard to hook up in the end. Then just move the rear end (without the wheels on) back just a few inches and the tranny and bell can come out together (I removed the tranny tower) |
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11-12-2018, 07:54 AM | #11 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks Co, Pa
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Re: transmission removal 30 or 31 roadster [not sure which]
I'm restating my warning about Mod A springs. DO NOT Take the shackle bolts out with out a spreader! Extremely Dangerous!
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11-13-2018, 02:27 PM | #12 |
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Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA
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Re: transmission removal 30 or 31 roadster [not sure which]
Note that the spreader he shows will only work on stock springs. For springs that have been reversed you have to use the Gennie Ford KR Wilson spreader.
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