The Ford Barn

JohninKuranda · 04-20-2014, 04:51 AM

After stripping down all the body panels etc , and replacing the sub-rails - and now having re-assembled it all, I find that the Body brackets just do not line up with the existing holes in the the bumper arm. They are about 15 mm (or around 1/2") short of the hole. I have been looking at it all weekend and am still non the wiser - though with a few skun knuckles.

Any suggestions as to what I should do?

Cheers
John

wrndln · 04-20-2014, 07:29 AM

I suspect the repro subrails were not made quite right. My 29 phaeton was a real rust bucket when I bought it about 4 years. The subrails were severely rusted out - many, many rust holes all along the subrails. However, there was enough of the subrail metal left that the subrails were still rigid. I spent about 3 months welding and dressing down the welded up holes, on both the top sides and bottom sides. The reason I took so much time was I had had so many problems with repro sheetmetal, especially from Howell's. I don't believe repro subrails have any holes predrilled for the quarterpanels or center mullion, so it isn't easy to find precisely where the body parts should be mounted. I was afraid I couldn't put the holes in the right places and have problems like you are encountering now. My body is still off the frame, so I could take some measurements if you need any. I don't know it that would help you or not. Let me know if you need any dimensions.
Rusty Nelson

Tom Wesenberg · 04-20-2014, 08:26 AM

Phaetons built in Australia are built with a lot of wood, and I wonder how that compares to ours, which are steel framed?

I can take a picture of my 28 Phaeton rear bumper arms if that would help.

Tom Wesenberg · 04-20-2014, 01:18 PM

The snow melted yesterday and today, so I opened the garage door and started my A for the first time in 6 months. I took these pictures of the right rear bumper arm, in case they might help.

JohninKuranda · 04-20-2014, 04:10 PM

Usually when I have two pieces of metal that I need to bring together I just wack in a bolt and then tighten it; thus closing the gap. I am hesitant to do this in this case as I can see the base of the rear panel buckling (or worse). Should I attempt to loosen the bolts where the bumper arm is (in my case) bolted to the frame and hope for enough free-play to bring it all together? Or use spacers of some sort?

Randy in ca · 04-20-2014, 04:40 PM

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Do you have the front of the bumper arm under the top of the frame, as shown in Tom's picture above?

JohninKuranda · 04-20-2014, 06:34 PM

Randy,
Yes the front of the bumper arm is as in your picture. I have attached a photo of my issue. Actually looking at it again it seems that the whole body needs to be shoved along the subrail a tad - but that will throw every thing else (doors, cowl) out.

Tom Wesenberg · 04-20-2014, 08:26 PM

Judging by the elongated hole, I wonder if the arm wasn't hit hard and bent in the past?
Do your rear bumpers set at the right height and level?

wrndln · 04-20-2014, 08:48 PM

John,
Are both side "off" the same amount? It appears the bumper arm or body standoff is off in 2 directions, not just one.
Rusty Nelson

swo4rd · 04-20-2014, 09:03 PM

Hi John, I'm not sure if the 35A, is comparable to the 35B or the 180A which I am doing, but I have found that the fit of the sub sills into the cowl slots is CRITICAL. However, if your body bolts to frame are matching up OK, then you have that right. Now looking at your photo, have you fastened the "perch" as I call it, to the sub sills, and then going to rivet (as original) or bolt (as not original) that to the bumper bar? If so, your body pads and anti squeak tape might be too thick...

04-20-2014, 04:51 AM	#1
JohninKuranda Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Kuranda, Queensland Australia Posts: 186	Rear Bumper Arm to Body Brackets on 35A Phaeton After stripping down all the body panels etc , and replacing the sub-rails - and now having re-assembled it all, I find that the Body brackets just do not line up with the existing holes in the the bumper arm. They are about 15 mm (or around 1/2") short of the hole. I have been looking at it all weekend and am still non the wiser - though with a few skun knuckles. Any suggestions as to what I should do? Cheers John

04-20-2014, 07:29 AM	#2
wrndln Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lakeville, MN Posts: 5,164	Re: Rear Bumper Arm to Body Brackets on 35A Phaeton I suspect the repro subrails were not made quite right. My 29 phaeton was a real rust bucket when I bought it about 4 years. The subrails were severely rusted out - many, many rust holes all along the subrails. However, there was enough of the subrail metal left that the subrails were still rigid. I spent about 3 months welding and dressing down the welded up holes, on both the top sides and bottom sides. The reason I took so much time was I had had so many problems with repro sheetmetal, especially from Howell's. I don't believe repro subrails have any holes predrilled for the quarterpanels or center mullion, so it isn't easy to find precisely where the body parts should be mounted. I was afraid I couldn't put the holes in the right places and have problems like you are encountering now. My body is still off the frame, so I could take some measurements if you need any. I don't know it that would help you or not. Let me know if you need any dimensions. Rusty Nelson

04-20-2014, 08:26 AM	#3
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Rear Bumper Arm to Body Brackets on 35A Phaeton Phaetons built in Australia are built with a lot of wood, and I wonder how that compares to ours, which are steel framed? I can take a picture of my 28 Phaeton rear bumper arms if that would help.

04-20-2014, 04:10 PM	#5
JohninKuranda Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Kuranda, Queensland Australia Posts: 186	Re: Rear Bumper Arm to Body Brackets on 35A Phaeton Usually when I have two pieces of metal that I need to bring together I just wack in a bolt and then tighten it; thus closing the gap. I am hesitant to do this in this case as I can see the base of the rear panel buckling (or worse). Should I attempt to loosen the bolts where the bumper arm is (in my case) bolted to the frame and hope for enough free-play to bring it all together? Or use spacers of some sort?

04-20-2014, 08:26 PM	#8
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Rear Bumper Arm to Body Brackets on 35A Phaeton Judging by the elongated hole, I wonder if the arm wasn't hit hard and bent in the past? Do your rear bumpers set at the right height and level? Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 04-20-2014 at 09:00 PM.

04-20-2014, 08:48 PM	#9
wrndln Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lakeville, MN Posts: 5,164	Re: Rear Bumper Arm to Body Brackets on 35A Phaeton John, Are both side "off" the same amount? It appears the bumper arm or body standoff is off in 2 directions, not just one. Rusty Nelson

04-20-2014, 09:03 PM	#10
swo4rd Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Charlottesville, Virginia Posts: 364	Re: Rear Bumper Arm to Body Brackets on 35A Phaeton Hi John, I'm not sure if the 35A, is comparable to the 35B or the 180A which I am doing, but I have found that the fit of the sub sills into the cowl slots is CRITICAL. However, if your body bolts to frame are matching up OK, then you have that right. Now looking at your photo, have you fastened the "perch" as I call it, to the sub sills, and then going to rivet (as original) or bolt (as not original) that to the bumper bar? If so, your body pads and anti squeak tape might be too thick...