Mart's gone video mad. 41 PU running again.

[Mart]

I'm trying to up the ante on my video dabblings.

In my latest blockbuster I follow up on the 41 pickup bad running video with a finale to show it up and running again. I share what I believe to have been the real cause of the bad running problem and share some tips and tricks for flathead distributor fitment.

What flathead guys might find interesting is the way the engine starts when warm. This is the state you should be trying to achieve. It means no fuel is leaking into the engine when stopped. It takes a lot of fine attention to all the things that can make a 94 run rich to get this sweet start situation. I tried to allude to this in my first video but sort of messed up the cutting.

I have tried to improve lighting and camera angles and not using my mobile phone. Please comment, like and subscribe if you find it interesting.

Constructive criticism is welcome.

Thanks,

Mart.

https://youtu.be/6UsbbUdAtCw

[RalphG]

Looking good Mart. I can't offer any criticism at all. Lighting, sound and audio were all good. Only thing I might have added was a short bit of video at the tail pipe to hear the smooth idle.

[Mart]

Thanks Ralph, I appreciate the comments, especially as you also are a youtuber.

Mart.

[flatford8]

I enjoy the narrative on your videos.... great job...now that it’s running well again...let’s go for a ride to the pub for a pint....I’ll buy!....Mark

[RKS.PA]

Mart, thought the photography was great....liked the angle of your shot so we could see what you were doing. Have now mastered the art of installing the crab so the tang is in the right place, but in my earlier attempts, seeing what you did to check it would have helped me avoid the 180*out ...a newbe has a 50% chance of getting it wrong....and sure enough, I did!!! That was a few years ago!!! Don't even bother taking a picture of the rotor any more prior to removal!!



Also liked the way you could switch back and forth between the electronic and the standard ignition. Based on what I could observe, however, couldn't see she ran any better with the electronic, but then, sitting in the shop is not going down the road!!!


Great job and thank you.


Dick.

[cajunfirehawk]

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So a $.02 washer caused the issue?

[Cecil/WV]

Originally Posted by cajunfirehawk

So a $.02 washer caused the issue?

Or----the loose tab on the rotor if it was the one being used??

[Mart]

I had to think about this: In my first video (oh no bad running) I thought that removing the electronic ignition amplifier did the trick. But when I retried it a few days later it was still bad, that prompted me busting out the Churchill fixture and resetting the distributor.

In the first video when I fitted the distributor cap from the coupe I also fitted the rotor arm from the coupe. You can identify it because the spring arm is slightly bent to one side (due to clumsy cap removal). It was still on the distributor during the show and tell on the offset drive tang.

So I would say that the loose rotor was not the cause of the problem because it still ran bad after it was removed.

As it is running nicely now with all it's original components back in place I would have to assume it was the broken washer causing, or at least adding to the problem. The distributor points settings were also out of whack so that, in itself may have been the problem.

If it was the washer, I am assuming it had been like that since fitment. The truck has done plenty of miles since the distributor was first fitted, so surely, on reflection that wasn't the problem either? (I'm also thinking the points wouldn't have opened far enough to short out to the washer).

I'm starting to lean towards the distributor being out of adjustment due to mileage it had done since first fitment, combined with a cold spell, then a milder damper spell of weather.

At least it is up and running now.

Thanks for the interest.

Mart.

[fortyonerag]

Great video, very informative. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.