How to fix wheel bearing race spinning in hub?

[COE Dan]

Ok, I got the stuck grease seal out (see previous thread titled: Question: How to remove stuck inner wheel bearing grease seal?).

Upon removal of the inner bearing, I found the bearing race (cup) spins freely in the hub. I don’t have a replacement hub and I don’t believe they are available so I don’t want to do anything to destroy the hub. The hub is from a 1947 two speed big truck axle.

Does anyone have suggestions/solutions for fixing loose wheel bearing races?

Thanks, Dan

[alchemy]

Check if a new race still spins. Maybe the race is bad and the hub is still good.

You would be surprised what parts are available in the Fordbarn classifieds. If you need another hub, just place a wanted ad.

[B-O-B]

Clean very thoroughly & set the race with J-B Weld

[stangblue]

I can tell what won't work. I had the same problem with a 34 pass. drum. I drill the hub and threaded the hub with 3 allen head set screws to hold the race in the hub. I also used high temp loc-tite . When I intalled the drum I found it would bind up when Rotating . Scrapped it and purchased another.

[alanwoodieman]

repaired paper mill machinery like this- knurl the hub, that is take a center punch and go around the race seat and create a bunch of raised knurls or pricks-do this all the way round and do plenty of them. next clean with alcohol swabs a couple of times clean the new race also, then use red locktite on the race and drive it into the hub, leave it alone for a couple of days and re-assemble

[trainguy]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Silver locktite will work

[BILL WZOREK]

# 5 post
Is almost word for word with what I was going to say.
Been there done that ~ WORKED GREAT !!!

[Tony, NY]

There is Loctite for close fitting parts that will hold it in place.

[COE Dan]

Thanks, guys. Just got the same advice as #5 and #7 here verbally at work. I wasn't aware of silver loctite so I'll look into that. Once I clean up the hub and order a new bearing/race, I'll see what works.

Dan

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Had to say it ........loctite "green" sleeve mount will work good also.
Thought was should have all the colors on this thread,,,

[Ronnie]

http://www.henkelna.com/retaining-compounds-14963.htm

R

[4t8v8]

Originally Posted by alanwoodieman

repaired paper mill machinery like this- knurl the hub, that is take a center punch and go around the race seat and create a bunch of raised knurls or pricks-do this all the way round and do plenty of them. next clean with alcohol swabs a couple of times clean the new race also, then use red locktite on the race and drive it into the hub, leave it alone for a couple of days and re-assemble

Old machinist's trick. It works. I didn't even use the loc-tite.

[alanwoodieman]

I guess they make a loctite "color" for every application. good knurl job and you really don't need loctite, but hey anything helps for peace of mind.

[rotorwrench]

An old machinist would resize the hub in a lathe, if there is enough meat there, and cut a new sleeve to be pressed in & pinned. The new race could then be pressed back inside the sleeve. The big trucks in that time frame likely all share the same hub. Job Lot may have one.

I tried loctite in the front hub of an old T-bird and it only worked for a while before it came loose. It was easier to find a good hub for it though.

[Pete]

Sorry to be a wet blanket for your problem BUT, all of the above advice will NOT work in the long run.
The only thing that works is replace the metal that is gone in the hub. That means hard chrome or hard metal spray and grind the hole back to size.
Sometimes if a hub has enough wall thickness it can be sleeved.

[bobH]

Re post 5 again... I did this about a dozen years ago on one of my cars. It's been working fine.
Another fix, taught to me by another old guy, use a copper rod in your arc welder, and 'skate' a bunch of marks on the area. It works the same as the center-punch method.

[Mike B]

I looked high and low for an "inside" knurling tool a few years back, for this (similar) issue...in my mind I envisioned an expanding 3 knurl tool that would knurl a 2 inch hole by hand.

Never came across one, so ended up bending and quenching a center point and peening the ID, adding loctite bearing retainer, and ran it that way for years...was a Dana 44 rearend pinion hole, probably not the load a hub would ever see though, but worked fine for me.

[49fordv8f4]

The hubs on the single speed Timken axle and the Eaton 2-speed are the same. I have several if you are interested. Ill send you a PM.
Mark

[AKCJ]

When the knurl with a punch method didn't work for me I used green Loctite. It has worked fine that way for many years.

[tamnalan]

I would recommend the Loctite method first. Their products are very good if used on clean surfaces.

[JWL]

With proper measuring you can wrap the bearing cone in appropriate thickness shim stock and press it home. You will have the full bearing area for support and it will be nearly as good as new.

[BILL WZOREK]

I have used the prick punch / Loctite method on one of our Belly dump trailers with a
G V W of 99,000 #'s
We never had a problem.
Contact Loctite and ask them which tell them what you wand to do they will tell you what product to use.
They have a great tech support in place ~~~

[CTH automotive]

I have used the home Knurling technique many times with great success. Most times never used Loctite. That might add a bit of peace of mind. Just use lots of punch marks all the way around, then use a "race driver" to make sure you go in straight.

[COE Dan]

Again, thanks for all the input. The hub I have is in great shape other than this issue so I plan to repair it and obtain a spare in case the problem persists.

In regards to adding metal and re-machining (as suggested by post #15):

1) Does porosity of cast iron and being soaked in gear lube have any effect on the metal spray addition? Is the oil removed from the metal prior to this process or is it negligible?
2) How much does this cost? Anyone had this done?

If this is prohibitive, I’ll go with the knurl/Loctite method.

Thanks.

[Marv]

I like the Knurling and JB weld the best. If you rub the new bearing with graphite and wipe it off before installing, it will be just like a new drum and you will be able to get the beaaring out next time.

[Pete]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by COE Dan

Again, thanks for all the input. The hub I have is in great shape other than this issue so I plan to repair it and obtain a spare in case the problem persists.

In regards to adding metal and re-machining (as suggested by post #15):

1) Does porosity of cast iron and being soaked in gear lube have any effect on the metal spray addition? Is the oil removed from the metal prior to this process or is it negligible?
2) How much does this cost? Anyone had this done?

If this is prohibitive, I’ll go with the knurl/Loctite method.

Thanks.

The hub is cleaned prior to spraying or chroming. There is no oil left in the pores.
I haven't done one or had it done in 35 years so am not up on the present day cost. Back then for a pickup truck hub, to chrome and grind
it was about $40. Metal spray was slightly cheaper.
I have done maybe a 100 hubs and never had one fail.

[itslow]

Originally Posted by alanwoodieman

I guess they make a loctite "color" for every application.

There are more applications that available colors, so you can't just rely on saying "Loctite Red" (or whatever) and be sure you're getting what you need. The products actually have specific numbers: ie) Loctite 609, 635, 641, 690, etc, etc.

At the parts store where they only sell the retail packaged red-colored "High Strength" and blue-colored "Medium Strength" thread lockers, that sort of nomenclature is probably OK. Need to be careful when you start getting into the more specialized retaining compounds and such, though.

Something such as the Loctite 660 may be suitable in this particular situation.