How to fix wheel bearing race spinning in hub?

[JWL]

With proper measuring you can wrap the bearing cone in appropriate thickness shim stock and press it home. You will have the full bearing area for support and it will be nearly as good as new.

[BILL WZOREK]

I have used the prick punch / Loctite method on one of our Belly dump trailers with a
G V W of 99,000 #'s
We never had a problem.
Contact Loctite and ask them which tell them what you wand to do they will tell you what product to use.
They have a great tech support in place ~~~

[CTH automotive]

I have used the home Knurling technique many times with great success. Most times never used Loctite. That might add a bit of peace of mind. Just use lots of punch marks all the way around, then use a "race driver" to make sure you go in straight.

[COE Dan]

Again, thanks for all the input. The hub I have is in great shape other than this issue so I plan to repair it and obtain a spare in case the problem persists.

In regards to adding metal and re-machining (as suggested by post #15):

1) Does porosity of cast iron and being soaked in gear lube have any effect on the metal spray addition? Is the oil removed from the metal prior to this process or is it negligible?
2) How much does this cost? Anyone had this done?

If this is prohibitive, I’ll go with the knurl/Loctite method.

Thanks.

[Marv]

I like the Knurling and JB weld the best. If you rub the new bearing with graphite and wipe it off before installing, it will be just like a new drum and you will be able to get the beaaring out next time.

[Pete]

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Originally Posted by COE Dan

Again, thanks for all the input. The hub I have is in great shape other than this issue so I plan to repair it and obtain a spare in case the problem persists.

In regards to adding metal and re-machining (as suggested by post #15):

1) Does porosity of cast iron and being soaked in gear lube have any effect on the metal spray addition? Is the oil removed from the metal prior to this process or is it negligible?
2) How much does this cost? Anyone had this done?

If this is prohibitive, I’ll go with the knurl/Loctite method.

Thanks.

The hub is cleaned prior to spraying or chroming. There is no oil left in the pores.
I haven't done one or had it done in 35 years so am not up on the present day cost. Back then for a pickup truck hub, to chrome and grind
it was about $40. Metal spray was slightly cheaper.
I have done maybe a 100 hubs and never had one fail.

[itslow]

Originally Posted by alanwoodieman

I guess they make a loctite "color" for every application.

There are more applications that available colors, so you can't just rely on saying "Loctite Red" (or whatever) and be sure you're getting what you need. The products actually have specific numbers: ie) Loctite 609, 635, 641, 690, etc, etc.

At the parts store where they only sell the retail packaged red-colored "High Strength" and blue-colored "Medium Strength" thread lockers, that sort of nomenclature is probably OK. Need to be careful when you start getting into the more specialized retaining compounds and such, though.

Something such as the Loctite 660 may be suitable in this particular situation.