Removing Torque Tube from Banjo

[Ed in Maine]

I have the rear end assembly off the car. The rear end is supported on blocks, I have removed the speedometer cap, speedometer gear and the retaining ring on the drive shaft. I just removed the bolts to the banjo and have moved the torque tube back from the banjo about 1 1/2 in. The torque tube doesn't seem to want to come back any further. What is holding the torque tube at this point? Does the pinion gear come out of the banjo easily or is it pressed into the banjo.

Actually, I am being lazy because I have Tom Endy's paper and numerous other MARC articles and I will get into them next. Just hoping to finish this small task this afternoon. Thanks for your help, Ed

[Tom Endy]

There is a circular snap ring at the front of the drive shaft. Pry it out with a screwdriver through the opening for the speedo.

Tom Endy

[Ed in Maine]

Thank you Tom, I am on my way, the torque tube is off the shaft.

[rotorwrench]

The drive shaft stays with the rear axel until it can be pulled out the side of the center support. The front speedo gear & bearing has to be able to come out of the tube front bell either as the tube is pulled or carefully picked out after the C-clip is removed.

[Marshall V. Daut]

The Model T rear end was designed so that the driveshaft could be pulled out of the center carrier without an almost complete disassembly of the rear end, as we know is the case with the Model A. I wonder why Ford engineers decided to make such a drastic change when they designed the Model A rear end? 'Sure made replacing a worn or broken pinion gear a heck of a lot more complicated than had it happened to a Model T!
Marshall

[rotorwrench]

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The driveshaft can be pulled out the left side center housing after the left axle bell and full differential/drive axle assembly are pulled out. The pinion bearing nuts have to be removed so the outer preload slider bearing will slip off. This is all after the torque tube is off. It's no easy job for sure.

The 1935 through 1948 were easier but the coupler between shaft & pinion were generally riveted from new so that had to be dealt with. Folks would put them back together with bolts or special clevis pins and those liked to break off and work their way out. The model A & B axles wouldn't do that. The first year or so of Mercury production had the pinion quill integral with the driveshaft. Those were not easy to separate without the right tools.

[Tom Endy]

I have a pinion bearing assembly puller. It clamps to the drive shaft and pulls pinion and drive shaft out together. This is how we install Mitchell overdrives without tearing the rear end apart. It is also how we disassemble the rear end when doing an overhaul. Makes the job easier doing it this way. Once the assembly is out it is easy to take it apart. If only the Mitchell is being installed, we have a technique for removing only the drive shaft and replacing it with the stub shaft.

Tom Endy

[Bruce of MN]

I used our Club's puller http://www.gwcmodela.com/tools.asp

The work is shown very well here: (Thanks, Tom!)
https://www.brattons.com/media/wysiw...r-Apr-2012.pdf

[Lawrie]

Tom, can you explain this, as I have two overdrives to fit next month.
Lawrie

[Randall]

Lawrie I repaired a diff,\. a while back and had to pull pinion, hope this helps https://youtu.be/CKVT2z2vNF4

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

The drive shaft stays with the rear axel until it can be pulled out the side of the center support.

Originally Posted by Tom Endy

I have a pinion bearing assembly puller. It clamps to the drive shaft and pulls pinion and drive shaft out together. This is how we install Mitchell overdrives without tearing the rear end apart. It is also how we disassemble the rear end when doing an overhaul. Makes the job easier doing it this way. Once the assembly is out it is easy to take it apart. If only the Mitchell is being installed, we have a technique for removing only the drive shaft and replacing it with the stub shaft.

Tom Endy

Thanks for clarifying this Tom. There is no need to pull the driveshaft out the side of the center support.

I use the puller that Mitchell makes to pull the driveshaft and pinion out the front of the carrier. The same tool is used to reinstall the driveshaft and pinion. No need to pull axles. In fact, Steve offered to lend me a puller when I bought my O/D but I decline and bought one just incase I needed it in the future.

[Tom Endy]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

Tom, can you explain this, as I have two overdrives to fit next month.
Lawrie

https://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-cont...ure-2022-1.pdf

[Marshall V. Daut]

Yes, I have that tool, too, and have used it in the past to remove the driveshaft with the double bearing race. I should have been more specific in my posting #5 by stating that the Model T driveshaft easily pulls straight out after removing the torque tube, while the Model A doesn't. One needs a special race puller to take the Model A driveshaft out without a further disassembly of the rear end. Experienced Model A guys know about this tool and the procedure. I hope I didn't mislead newbies to the hobby by saying the Model A driveshaft cannot be removed from the front without disassembly. As a couple posts above explain, it CAN be removed - but not everyone has the special tool required to do this, meaning a partial disassembly will be required in most cases to remove the drive shaft. Thanks for the clarification in postings subsequent to mine.
Marshall